What grit hone stone?
What you refer to as a "dingleberry" is just a glaze breaker. I would only use this if you are planning on re-installing the same piston rings on a "cheapy" rebuild. These flex hones also do not have the truing effect that a mandrel hone has to help insure a round straight cylinder. They also will not alert you to irregularities in the cylinder the way mandrel hone will.
If you are installing new rings, you must use the grit recommended by the ring manufacturer and it is directly related to the material the ring is made from. While you can certainly do this by hand, I have always paid the extra money to have the process done by a machine shop. Their professional machines have the ability to get the ideal cross-hatching and stone pre-load to assure you will get the optimum finish to allow your rings to seat and seal properly.
There is nothing worse than spending money on speed parts, gaskets, fluid etc. only to lose good horsepower to a poor sealing cylinder.
If you are installing new rings, you must use the grit recommended by the ring manufacturer and it is directly related to the material the ring is made from. While you can certainly do this by hand, I have always paid the extra money to have the process done by a machine shop. Their professional machines have the ability to get the ideal cross-hatching and stone pre-load to assure you will get the optimum finish to allow your rings to seat and seal properly.
There is nothing worse than spending money on speed parts, gaskets, fluid etc. only to lose good horsepower to a poor sealing cylinder.
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What you refer to as a "dingleberry" is just a glaze breaker. I would only use this if you are planning on re-installing the same piston rings on a "cheapy" rebuild. These flex hones also do not have the truing effect that a mandrel hone has to help insure a round straight cylinder. They also will not alert you to irregularities in the cylinder the way mandrel hone will.
If you are installing new rings, you must use the grit recommended by the ring manufacturer and it is directly related to the material the ring is made from. While you can certainly do this by hand, I have always paid the extra money to have the process done by a machine shop. Their professional machines have the ability to get the ideal cross-hatching and stone pre-load to assure you will get the optimum finish to allow your rings to seat and seal properly.
There is nothing worse than spending money on speed parts, gaskets, fluid etc. only to lose good horsepower to a poor sealing cylinder.
If you are installing new rings, you must use the grit recommended by the ring manufacturer and it is directly related to the material the ring is made from. While you can certainly do this by hand, I have always paid the extra money to have the process done by a machine shop. Their professional machines have the ability to get the ideal cross-hatching and stone pre-load to assure you will get the optimum finish to allow your rings to seat and seal properly.
There is nothing worse than spending money on speed parts, gaskets, fluid etc. only to lose good horsepower to a poor sealing cylinder.
Last edited by Wnts2Go10O; Mar 7, 2011 at 05:13 PM.
If you are replacing the rings, I hope you can find the money. When those rings don't seat you are gonna wish you did.
If you dont want to send the block to the machine shop then just throw rings in it and go. What does the original cross hatch look like?? I've seen motors with 100k + that still have a great looking cross hatch on the bores.
