Spun a cam bearing. Block trashed?
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From: Jonesboro, Arkansas
Spun a cam bearing. Block trashed? I spun a cam bearing in my 2004 lq9. I took it to a local machine shop and they automatically told me that since it spun a cam bearing that the block is junk and to just find a new one. Is this true? This particular shop deals mainly with sbc rebuilds but there are no other options close to where I live. The guy didn't even look at the block. Is it possible to put in new cam bearings and reuse the block?
I'd assume it depends on how badly the block is damaged. I could have sworn they sold oversided cam bearings but you would have to have a machine shop line hone the cam journals and press in the new bearings.
I'm honestly not sure, never had to go through it before. Its also not that common to spin a cam bearing....
I'm honestly not sure, never had to go through it before. Its also not that common to spin a cam bearing....
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From: Millwaukee,WI
i am no expert but i would think that a machine shop could machine new journals and press in new bearings however i have heard when you start machining you can run into some serious $$$. if i were you i would check your options out maybe it is more cost effective to find another block.
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I found another machine shop in the area. I dropped the block off at their shop today. he is going to clean the block, check the block out, and if everything looked good after the wash put in new cam bearings. He said he would measure the cam bearing bores and new bearings before pressing them in. He seems confident that there can be new bearings put in it. The guy said if anything looked like there would be a potential problem or if he did not feel confident in the block he would tell me to find a new one.
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The machine shop called me this afternoon and said the block was ready that everything went smoothly. I am relieved that I don't have to go thru the trouble to find a replacement block.
What do you mean by pinned? Is there a way you can notch bearings in so that they do not spin? Or is "pinning" what you are referring to and what I am thinking of?
pinning the bearings used to be a lot more common with the massive spring pressures you had to run with big flat tappet cams. with roller lifters and better spring technology it's lost favor. maybe some paved oval guys still do it, i am not sure.
basically you drill and tap a set screw through the bearing into the block. some guys loctited, I prefered to score the threads with a chisel.
basically you drill and tap a set screw through the bearing into the block. some guys loctited, I prefered to score the threads with a chisel.
the reason some shops may automatically assume trashed block is perhaps because after building hundreds or thousands of engines over the years they have begun to recognize and associated higher rate of failure of rebuilt engines that previously had bearing/metal material released into the lubricative orifices of the engine.
Even a thoroughly "cleaned" engine, once it has had metal materials distributed throughout, can not truly be trusted. If the engine is important or rare the build can be attempted of course; but if the engine is not unique there is no excuse not to find a clean one to start with from a running vehicle.
Even a thoroughly "cleaned" engine, once it has had metal materials distributed throughout, can not truly be trusted. If the engine is important or rare the build can be attempted of course; but if the engine is not unique there is no excuse not to find a clean one to start with from a running vehicle.
Also, check the date of the thread to make sure you're not reviving a 5 year old thread, like you just did. Chances are, the person you're asking hasn't been on here in months, so the likely hood of them answering you is slim.
As far as your question goes, different machine shops charge different prices. You should expect to pay around $200 for a line hone, but it's best to call the machine shop you want to use and ask them first.
the reason some shops may automatically assume trashed block is perhaps because after building hundreds or thousands of engines over the years they have begun to recognize and associated higher rate of failure of rebuilt engines that previously had bearing/metal material released into the lubricative orifices of the engine.
Even a thoroughly "cleaned" engine, once it has had metal materials distributed throughout, can not truly be trusted. If the engine is important or rare the build can be attempted of course; but if the engine is not unique there is no excuse not to find a clean one to start with from a running vehicle.
Even a thoroughly "cleaned" engine, once it has had metal materials distributed throughout, can not truly be trusted. If the engine is important or rare the build can be attempted of course; but if the engine is not unique there is no excuse not to find a clean one to start with from a running vehicle.
If a machine shop can't clean a block, then they shouldn't be in business.
Came here to post this exact thing. And it was my rear most that walked on me too. Put a new bearing in, loctited it and then pinned it. Never had an issue after that.
For example, Imagine I run an engine brand new from the factory for 30,000~ miles without an air filter. Imagine what that would do to the air path, let alone the oil quality over that time. Only 30k on the clock, is going to sound good, run good, but guess what? that engine can never be reliable, it should never be used for a high performance build thereafter, and no amount of general cleaning practice will ever bring it back to the performance world.
So there are some situations of filth and poor maintenance/cleaning practices which are unforgivable. And others which may be cleared up.
there are different kinds of debris. Sludge and oil/carbon type of buildup presents one kind of problem for an orifice, but can also be cleaned/solvated over time through oil changes. Metal particulate engaged or impregnated into the block can not be, and may dislodge at any time causing a problem down the road. And there are other compounds which form or are ingested by the engine which pose similar threats, particulate which may not be metal, but also is not solvent compatible either, and might stick to parts.
For example, Imagine I run an engine brand new from the factory for 30,000~ miles without an air filter. Imagine what that would do to the air path, let alone the oil quality over that time. Only 30k on the clock, is going to sound good, run good, but guess what? that engine can never be reliable, it should never be used for a high performance build thereafter, and no amount of general cleaning practice will ever bring it back to the performance world.
So there are some situations of filth and poor maintenance/cleaning practices which are unforgivable. And others which may be cleared up.
For example, Imagine I run an engine brand new from the factory for 30,000~ miles without an air filter. Imagine what that would do to the air path, let alone the oil quality over that time. Only 30k on the clock, is going to sound good, run good, but guess what? that engine can never be reliable, it should never be used for a high performance build thereafter, and no amount of general cleaning practice will ever bring it back to the performance world.
So there are some situations of filth and poor maintenance/cleaning practices which are unforgivable. And others which may be cleared up.
I have rebuilt several engines that have been on fire, run low on oil, snapped rods, spun bearings, collapsed pistons, broken ring lands on the piston, Blown head gaskets- overheated, and so on.
As long as the block's integrity has not been compromised past the worth of the block, it can be repaired, properly cleaned and put back into service.
That being said, I have also seen other assembled engines that were in good shape that were rebuilt and fail shortly after due to a lack of proper cleaning.
IMO, a thermal cleaning is the best way to start after a major engine failure issue. It strips the block to a rawest form. That followed up by a proper cleaning of the oil galleries with the proper brushes with hot soapy water after all machine work is finished makes a huge difference. I also like to use some cleaning solvents as well.
Several places sell engine cleaning brush kits , But By far the best kit I have found is from Brush Research Manufacturing a.k.a. BRM.
Part# 1EK
The BRM 1-E KIT- OIL LINE/GALLERY BRUSH KIT contains 29 brushes in various size to clean just about every standard engine out there. Some of the smaller more common sizes even come with spares.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; May 28, 2016 at 10:27 AM.
You clearly have no Idea of what a proper machine shop can do to clean a block. It's not just how they clean it, but also How it's cleaned prior to assembly.
I have rebuilt several engines that have been on fire, run low on oil, snapped rods, spun bearings, collapsed pistons, broken ring lands on the piston, Blown head gaskets- overheated, and so on.
As long as the block's integrity has not been compromised past the worth of the block, it can be repaired, properly cleaned and put back into service.
That being said, I have also seen other assembled engines that were in good shape that were rebuilt and fail shortly after due to a lack of proper cleaning.
IMO, a thermal cleaning is the best way to start after a major engine failure issue. It strips the block to a rawest form. That followed up by a proper cleaning of the oil galleries with the proper brushes with hot soapy water after all machine work is finished makes a huge difference. I also like to use some cleaning solvents as well.
Several places sell engine cleaning brush kits , But By far the best kit I have found is from Brush Research Manufacturing a.k.a. BRM.
Part# 1EK
The BRM 1-E KIT- OIL LINE/GALLERY BRUSH KIT contains 29 brushes in various size to clean just about every standard engine out there. Some of the smaller more common sizes even come with spares.
I have rebuilt several engines that have been on fire, run low on oil, snapped rods, spun bearings, collapsed pistons, broken ring lands on the piston, Blown head gaskets- overheated, and so on.
As long as the block's integrity has not been compromised past the worth of the block, it can be repaired, properly cleaned and put back into service.
That being said, I have also seen other assembled engines that were in good shape that were rebuilt and fail shortly after due to a lack of proper cleaning.
IMO, a thermal cleaning is the best way to start after a major engine failure issue. It strips the block to a rawest form. That followed up by a proper cleaning of the oil galleries with the proper brushes with hot soapy water after all machine work is finished makes a huge difference. I also like to use some cleaning solvents as well.
Several places sell engine cleaning brush kits , But By far the best kit I have found is from Brush Research Manufacturing a.k.a. BRM.
Part# 1EK
The BRM 1-E KIT- OIL LINE/GALLERY BRUSH KIT contains 29 brushes in various size to clean just about every standard engine out there. Some of the smaller more common sizes even come with spares.
The iron block I'm using had a piston explode and a connecting rod snap in two. It didn't take much more than a power washer, a 5 gallon bucket of hot water and Tide detergent, and a good set of engine brushes to clean it all out.