just wondering if the tr230/224 .563 .575 111lsa needs a tune on a M6 immediately after install or will it be okay to run without a tune for awhile as this car is my DD.

thanks

 

I believe you will WANT a tune immediately after installation. I just installed a torquer v.2 which is slightly larger than your cam on 112lsa(slightly smoother idle) and on the cam I have it said computer tuning required for automatic cars only. Well lets just say the car WILL NOT idle without me keeping it running. It is extremely hard to turn/brake/and keep the engine running. Runs fine going down the road. Luckily my car is being tuned this monday, but from my experience I would say that you do not need to drive it without a tune. And especially since this is your daily, it may run lean or if it stalls while turning (which I had happen myself) it can cause an accident.

 

you can drive it without a tune. just do not hot rod it at all. and i wouldnt drive it long that way. I drove mine for a couple weeks before i got it tuned. It surged a little at idle and tried to bog a little bit on take off but you wont hurt it just cruising around.

 

I had to drive mine for about a week without a tune after we got the cam in. I caught a ride with a friend to and from work for a couple of the days though. If you have any other options, try to take em. But if you have to, just DO NOT go wot. It will suck to drive. What made you chose the reverse split?

 

Hi,
get your tune asap to gain full potential from your cam. Enjoy the power and have a blessed weekend..........jim

 

Yes is get a tune adap, but in till then, you can give your throttle closed screw a turn or so to raise your idle little.

Until you get it tuned you will be running rich at and around idle and lean up in the higher rpms, so take it easy until tuned

 

well was hoping to have it done tomarrow but lifter fell into the oil pan now going to pull the motor tomarrow. now im thinking bout doing a basic engine rebuild while its out or just do the swap and save for a 408 build

 

a cam and other things effect your AFR ,and you don't want it leaning out and frying the motor.

 

Bolt your strut tower brace in, and cut a peices of 1" square tube steel long enough to lay on top of your strut to strut... get two tiedown straps and wrap them around the strut brace and around the the square tube and bolt them into the larger bolt holes on your heads....now you can drop your front crossmember and get to your pan. Pita, but better than pulling the motor

 

Hmmm...I also have the Torquer v2 and didn't experience ANY of this...only thing I had to do was give it throttle upon start it for about 5-10 seconds until it found its idle. There was bucking under 2,000 RPMs, so I just never let it get there. Drove it that way for an entire season, untuned - which I DO NOT RECOMMEND. Just saying I did, and nothing was harmed. But it runs 100x better with a tune. I say you're fine to drive it to the tuner, but I wouldn't do much otherwise until it's tuned.

 

Damn...sorry for your luck man. I also had to remove my pan during my cam swap, but mine was because the gasket tore while lowering it. I didn't remove the motor tho...I unbolted it from the mounts, raised it up with a cherry picker, lowered the K-member as far as it would go by simply loosening the six (I think?) big bolts and then proceeded to pry the bitch out. Worked alright for me, tho it was definitely a PITA. But possibly better than pulling the motor.

Allen