5.3l questions
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
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From: Whitehall,PA
What? You asked about performance cams for a 5.3L, you do realize these are truck motors right?
FWIW, I see alot of the main specs discussed (duration, lift, LSA), but nobody ever mentions ramp angles. From what i DO know, it's not just lift and duration, how quickly you can get that valve opened, and the rate at which you close it (lobes don't need to be symmetrical), is going to effect alot of things too, specifically valvetrain wear. I see alot of people commenting on spec'ing valvesprings by lift only, which really isn't correct. Ramp angles (really valvetrain acceleration) plays a significant role as well, and thats what will cause valve float, along with other harmonics.
If you are looking for 325whp and want good low end why are you looking for a different cam? I'd Clean up the bowls on the heads a little and a decent tuner can get 325whp all day long.
If the truck intake has larger runners than the LS1, then if your concerned about low end TQ, why not put a stock LS1 one on? Why put headers on?
Also tuned right the LS6 cam , you wouldnt notice a difference in TQ driving it. You seem to be trying to peice something together with random parts that already is capable of achieving in its near stock form. Camshaft is the last thing i'd be messing with in a case like this.
Thats my $.02
If the truck intake has larger runners than the LS1, then if your concerned about low end TQ, why not put a stock LS1 one on? Why put headers on?
Also tuned right the LS6 cam , you wouldnt notice a difference in TQ driving it. You seem to be trying to peice something together with random parts that already is capable of achieving in its near stock form. Camshaft is the last thing i'd be messing with in a case like this.
Thats my $.02
The House is Rockin'
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,577
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From: Under a moaning senorita
thru this whole thread all you have been acting like is a complete tool, demanding info, try using your own brain and do your own research. dont even come over to pt.net with that attitude, you will get eaten alive.
If you are looking for 325whp and want good low end why are you looking for a different cam? I'd Clean up the bowls on the heads a little and a decent tuner can get 325whp all day long.
If the truck intake has larger runners than the LS1, then if your concerned about low end TQ, why not put a stock LS1 one on? Why put headers on?
Also tuned right the LS6 cam , you wouldnt notice a difference in TQ driving it. You seem to be trying to peice something together with random parts that already is capable of achieving in its near stock form. Camshaft is the last thing i'd be messing with in a case like this.
Thats my $.02
If the truck intake has larger runners than the LS1, then if your concerned about low end TQ, why not put a stock LS1 one on? Why put headers on?
Also tuned right the LS6 cam , you wouldnt notice a difference in TQ driving it. You seem to be trying to peice something together with random parts that already is capable of achieving in its near stock form. Camshaft is the last thing i'd be messing with in a case like this.
Thats my $.02
I've never liked porting and polishing, it's like a black art. If it was done on a CNC or other automated machine like a wire-feed EDM or something, with before/after flow modeling, then maybe I'd be ok with it. But outside of yanking stock heads, and swapping to different ones - it's really not something I'm interested in doing.
And why keep the truck manifold - all the flow data I've seen shows it outflows the LS1 intake. I'm not trying to peice anything together with andom parts, thats exactly why I made this thread. If I see what you're saying, you're recommending to retain the stock cam, and do something with the heads? What about swapping to a different stock head instead then? And also yes, I will be getting a dyno tune.
You're right, I have been a dick. However, it's hard to keep composure when you continue to get responses that seem as if they pertain very little to what you actualy asked for. I am attempting to do my own research, but I assumed a simple cam recommendation would be easier than this - I guess it wasn't. I guess I need to borrow a book somewhere on camshaft design & theory, and hope I can read/understand it before my engine is ready to go in.
I'll have to check the casting number when I get home, but something like 802, or 852 sounds right? The engine is an aluminum block 5.3 (LM4 I beleive??) from an '04 Buick Raineer.
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Verdad Gallardo I've never liked porting and polishing, it's like a black art. If it was done on a CNC or other automated machine like a wire-feed EDM or something, with before/after flow modeling, then maybe I'd be ok with it. But outside of yanking stock heads, and swapping to different ones - it's really not something I'm interested in doing.
And why keep the truck manifold - all the flow data I've seen shows it outflows the LS1 intake. I'm not trying to peice anything together with andom parts, thats exactly why I made this thread. If I see what you're saying, you're recommending to retain the stock cam, and do something with the heads? What about swapping to a different stock head instead then? And also yes, I will be getting a dyno tune.
And why keep the truck manifold - all the flow data I've seen shows it outflows the LS1 intake. I'm not trying to peice anything together with andom parts, thats exactly why I made this thread. If I see what you're saying, you're recommending to retain the stock cam, and do something with the heads? What about swapping to a different stock head instead then? And also yes, I will be getting a dyno tune.
Quit wasting your time... throw it together w/ the LS6 cam and run it. You'll be happy and no need to waste time trying to re-invent the wheel.
Why are you so concerned about more airflow for the intake when you're only looking for 325whp and want optimal torque? You make no sense. You can make well over 400whp on a stock ls1 intake and if it flows less would probably be better for lower end TQ. Flow data has nothing to do with your goal. You have an engine that is making optimal TQ, and is capable of making 325whp with someone that knows how to tune it, and you're changing stuff and researching airflow?? trying to achieve this??
Quit wasting your time... throw it together w/ the LS6 cam and run it. You'll be happy and no need to waste time trying to re-invent the wheel.
Quit wasting your time... throw it together w/ the LS6 cam and run it. You'll be happy and no need to waste time trying to re-invent the wheel.
The other reason is that I'd have to change out all of the front accessories as well, and why spend such a rediculous amount of money to change all that stuff when I already have an intake that flows better?
I've heard alot of good things about the LS6 cam, but I've also read about people talking about a loss of low-end torque. problem is, nobody has a dyno graph of a STOCK motor with an LS6 cam, so it's really hard to compare.
Last edited by kendogg; Apr 15, 2011 at 11:07 AM.
The other reason is that I'd have to change out all of the front accessories as well, and why spend such a rediculous amount of money to change all that stuff when I already have an intake that flows better?
I've heard alot of good things about the LS6 cam, but I've also read about people talking about a loss of low-end torque. problem is, nobody has a dyno graph of a STOCK motor with an LS6 cam, so it's really hard to compare.
I've heard alot of good things about the LS6 cam, but I've also read about people talking about a loss of low-end torque. problem is, nobody has a dyno graph of a STOCK motor with an LS6 cam, so it's really hard to compare.
The loss of low end TQ would probably be the tuner. I just swapped in a 224/224 .581/.581 112 cam into my vette. I been messing with the fuel and timing and it seems to have more low end then the stock cam did now. A stock dyno graph is worthless.. your not going to be able to throw a stock LS6 tune in it and have it run the same. Lots of things can effect the RPM band, and a lot can be done to make up for what a cam does.
As you said earlier , many people gain mpgs from a cam and solid tune. With your setup I see no reason why you wouldn't gain in that category. I don't assume the factory 5.3 Raineer motors come optimally tuned.
Really? Damn, thats good! What cam, and what rear gearing do you have, if you don't mind me asking? Completely different application, I know, I'm just curious how radical you went. My stock rear gearing is a 3.73. I don't have many ratios to choose from being a Volvo IRS diff, but there are a few out there, and I plan on buildin an LSD later on, so.....
Thanks for the help guys!
Last edited by kendogg; Apr 15, 2011 at 03:21 PM.
Well, a stock dyno graph can be a nice comparison to see what the end result is from stock. So, you're saying with an LS6 cam (and of course the proper springs), and a dyno tune alone, I should see low 300's to the wheels on 93 pump? I forget if I mentioned it in any of the posts above, but I'm planning on either dual 2.25", or dual 2.5" all the way back, proper X-pipe, and a single dual-in, dual-out muffler. And at this point, whatever headers I can make fit, hopefully small primary long-tubes.
the mpg thing.... That is all what you set in the tune....which is a necessity after a cam. You can tune a stock LS1 to get better mileage and make more power w/o doing anything else to it.
Really? Damn, thats good! What cam, and what rear gearing do you have, if you don't mind me asking? Completely different application, I know, I'm just curious how radical you went. My stock rear gearing is a 3.73. I don't have many ratios to choose from being a Volvo IRS diff, but there are a few out there, and I plan on buildin an LSD later on, so.....
Thanks for the help guys!
Thanks for the help guys!
As others have said, it's all in the tuners hands. Mine, I could just simply let out the clutch and roll @ 5mph drama. Same said in part throttle @ 20-30mph.
I have to agree with the other poster. Quit trying to reinvent the wheel. Call 3 camshaft manufacturers/dealers and give them your info and see what they say. Its their science.....they know it and spent alot of money to learn and produce it.
325rwhp out of a 5.3L? You know that bone stock they put out 285-315hp in the trucks they were originally installed in, right?
Bore it to 3.898 or 3.905, throw some LS1 pistons in it, ls6 cam or equivalent, some 243/799 heads, ls6 intake and call it a day! 350hp min. will be the end result.
Ill let you know the dyno numbers when mine is all done.
325rwhp out of a 5.3L? You know that bone stock they put out 285-315hp in the trucks they were originally installed in, right?
Bore it to 3.898 or 3.905, throw some LS1 pistons in it, ls6 cam or equivalent, some 243/799 heads, ls6 intake and call it a day! 350hp min. will be the end result.
Ill let you know the dyno numbers when mine is all done.
I have to agree with the other poster. Quit trying to reinvent the wheel. Call 3 camshaft manufacturers/dealers and give them your info and see what they say. Its their science.....they know it and spent alot of money to learn and produce it.
325rwhp out of a 5.3L? You know that bone stock they put out 285-315hp in the trucks they were originally installed in, right?
Bore it to 3.898 or 3.905, throw some LS1 pistons in it, ls6 cam or equivalent, some 243/799 heads, ls6 intake and call it a day! 350hp min. will be the end result.
Ill let you know the dyno numbers when mine is all done.
325rwhp out of a 5.3L? You know that bone stock they put out 285-315hp in the trucks they were originally installed in, right?
Bore it to 3.898 or 3.905, throw some LS1 pistons in it, ls6 cam or equivalent, some 243/799 heads, ls6 intake and call it a day! 350hp min. will be the end result.
Ill let you know the dyno numbers when mine is all done.
295 bhp, yes. No idea what that translates into at the wheels, because as I stated before I've yet to find a stock baseline dyno, and unfortunately I won't be able to get one either. But I'd guess somewhere in the ~240-250 rwhp. So, yes, I do question being able to gain ~75 hp with just a cam exhaust and tune. And no I'm not doing all that work, did you not read I'm keeping the motor as stock as possible?