Does this hone look good enough?
I moved it kinda quickly, I used lubricant, and I used my 12v drill since I read that it should not be done fast.
Below Is what I was using to check my bore. All I could find.
I was getting readings of 4.001 on my micrometer.
My bore also doesnt seem to have a crosshatch, so I have done something wrong there. And where might I buy a dial bore gauge locally?
I was getting readings of 4.001 on my micrometer.
My bore also doesnt seem to have a crosshatch, so I have done something wrong there. And where might I buy a dial bore gauge locally?
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: South Dakota
You want to do as little "grinding" as possible. You only need enough so that it is not glazed or smooth. Need more cross hatch. Spin drill slower, move up and down faster. Honing is critical. Types of grit honing can vary greatly. I have mine done by a pro shop. However, I've done it with a drill and a kit, and eyeballed the cross hatch. Engine was fine for 40k miles before I sold it. If I was doing a modern f-body, I would have a shop do it. Not that expensive considering the rebuild risk and cost.
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Verdad Gallardo Well, I did some more research. And found that I should go in reverse with the hone.... Well I now have a crisscross. So I believe I am good.
So its time to go wash the motor, let her dry. Then do my rings, and the start building my motor.
So its time to go wash the motor, let her dry. Then do my rings, and the start building my motor.
Yea, I have decided I am not going further until I take the motor to a machine shop to get honed.
I feel comfortable doing everything else to the motor, just this a crucial thing that can be done 100% at a machine shop.
How much should a machine shop charge to hone, and clean the block/heads? I was told around $8 per cylinder.
I feel comfortable doing everything else to the motor, just this a crucial thing that can be done 100% at a machine shop.
How much should a machine shop charge to hone, and clean the block/heads? I was told around $8 per cylinder.
FWIW you will want the macine shop to use a torque plate when honing
the cylinders....it simulates the bore distortion when torquing the cyl. head
on. I've measured this on tall deck BBC engines back in the day when I was
part of U-haul's remanufacturig process and it can be as much as .00125
which is a considerable percentage of the total piston to wall clearance
especially if using tighter fitting hypereutectic pistons.
the cylinders....it simulates the bore distortion when torquing the cyl. head
on. I've measured this on tall deck BBC engines back in the day when I was
part of U-haul's remanufacturig process and it can be as much as .00125
which is a considerable percentage of the total piston to wall clearance
especially if using tighter fitting hypereutectic pistons.
Yea, I have decided I am not going further until I take the motor to a machine shop to get honed.
I feel comfortable doing everything else to the motor, just this a crucial thing that can be done 100% at a machine shop.
How much should a machine shop charge to hone, and clean the block/heads? I was told around $8 per cylinder.
I feel comfortable doing everything else to the motor, just this a crucial thing that can be done 100% at a machine shop.
How much should a machine shop charge to hone, and clean the block/heads? I was told around $8 per cylinder.
Yeah I would take it to a shop. Honing believe it or not is a art. You have to be taught by someone that knows how to do it properly. It isnt something you can learn by just reading a book. I wouldnt "practice" on my own motor!
The crosshatch angle looks way off. The angle is way to close to zero. The 5.3L i just took apart had a factory angle of around 20-25 degrees.
The crosshatch angle looks way off. The angle is way to close to zero. The 5.3L i just took apart had a factory angle of around 20-25 degrees.
