tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

Hello.

Just honed my motor, and I am hoping it looks satisfactory. And the stuff on the cylinder walls is not scratches, it is dirt.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

Looks way overdone and most likely uneven to me from here... Mic it all out?

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, it does look a little excessive. You need to check each bore all the way around with one of these.

tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

Not sure if I have a dial bore gauge, ill have to check. I ran the hone with 220 for 10 seconds, then 400 for 10 seconds.

garygnu

it looks to shiny,I really can't see the cross hatch.how fast did you move the hone up and down?what rpm did you run it at?did you spray it with any lubricant while honing?

tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

I moved it kinda quickly, I used lubricant, and I used my 12v drill since I read that it should not be done fast.

tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

Below Is what I was using to check my bore. All I could find.

I was getting readings of 4.001 on my micrometer.

My bore also doesnt seem to have a crosshatch, so I have done something wrong there. And where might I buy a dial bore gauge locally?

whitetrasham

You want to do as little "grinding" as possible. You only need enough so that it is not glazed or smooth. Need more cross hatch. Spin drill slower, move up and down faster. Honing is critical. Types of grit honing can vary greatly. I have mine done by a pro shop. However, I've done it with a drill and a kit, and eyeballed the cross hatch. Engine was fine for 40k miles before I sold it. If I was doing a modern f-body, I would have a shop do it. Not that expensive considering the rebuild risk and cost.

tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

Well, I did some more research. And found that I should go in reverse with the hone.... Well I now have a crisscross. So I believe I am good.

So its time to go wash the motor, let her dry. Then do my rings, and the start building my motor.

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

Honestly it looks terrible

tylerdustin2008

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I have decided I am not going further until I take the motor to a machine shop to get honed.

I feel comfortable doing everything else to the motor, just this a crucial thing that can be done 100% at a machine shop.

How much should a machine shop charge to hone, and clean the block/heads? I was told around $8 per cylinder.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

FWIW you will want the macine shop to use a torque plate when honing
the cylinders....it simulates the bore distortion when torquing the cyl. head
on. I've measured this on tall deck BBC engines back in the day when I was
part of U-haul's remanufacturig process and it can be as much as .00125
which is a considerable percentage of the total piston to wall clearance
especially if using tighter fitting hypereutectic pistons.

Frans96SS

iTrader: (15)

Usually about 200 to hone 8 cylinders and 100 to deck it.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

and a professional hone will possibly get rid of that pitting on the walls...

remauto1187

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I would take it to a shop. Honing believe it or not is a art. You have to be taught by someone that knows how to do it properly. It isnt something you can learn by just reading a book. I wouldnt "practice" on my own motor!

The crosshatch angle looks way off. The angle is way to close to zero. The 5.3L i just took apart had a factory angle of around 20-25 degrees.