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Question about Lapping Valves.

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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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Default Question about Lapping Valves.

Lapping valves for the first time on a set of clean heads. CNC ported 243's and a new set of manley valves. Will be running Patriot Extreme springs. When doing them should I be able to get them to the point of not being able to see any light leak through when the valve is sitting there with no presure on it, or will it require a little pressure to get a full seal? I can see a little get through right now, but if I put a few pounds of pressure (much less than the seat pressure with the springs on) it seals up. Just wanting to know how far to take them. Thank you.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by njoossens
Lapping valves for the first time on a set of clean heads. CNC ported 243's and a new set of manley valves. Will be running Patriot Extreme springs. When doing them should I be able to get them to the point of not being able to see any light leak through when the valve is sitting there with no presure on it, or will it require a little pressure to get a full seal? I can see a little get through right now, but if I put a few pounds of pressure (much less than the seat pressure with the springs on) it seals up. Just wanting to know how far to take them. Thank you.
Just considering that you'll have (at least) 135# seat pressure when assembled, I wouldn't be concerned with what it "looks like" with no spring. Best way to check is install the spring and pour a few ounces of light hydrocarbon (naptha, lacquer thinner, whatever is handy) into the port and watch for seepage around the valve head.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Thanks...I've just been getting them so that there is a nice even line on the valve and seat. They seem to seal up with no ligh with about 10-20lb of presure from a finger. Can't seem to get the springs compressed enough to get the keepers on now. Think the tool I rented from Advance Auto doesn't have enough travel. Autozone looked to only have the ones that you use when the heads are on the car. Hopefully Oreilly will have something different.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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I have always done mine by looking at the valve and seat. No light needed.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:24 AM
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How fine a grit are you using?

On the valve spring tool, make sure to use one that pushes on the retainer. Don't get or use the "claw" type that grabs the spring itself. With the heads off, best tool is the big "C" clamp type.

Also, make sure you really clean out the lapping compound good before reassembly.

Are you measuring spring installed height?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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how tight are the guilds?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:29 PM
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Took back the clamp style one that I was using since it didn't seem to have enough travel to compress the spring enough to pop the retainers in. Was hoping to find another rental in that style, but OReilly and Autozone both do the claw style. I'll at least finish lapping the valves tonight. Worst case I can take it to a machine shop to finish installing. Trying to avoid any more money spent. Haven't got any springs on to measure installed height. Valve guides look good.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by njoossens
Haven't got any springs on to measure installed height.
You don't install springs to check installed height! You use a valve spring height micrometer.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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Sorry I wasn't thinking. I'll check them out tonight.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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It might be worth buying a valve spring tool you can use now and when the heads are on the car. Good investment and can be used later when you need to freshen the valve springs. I have the old Crane tool but apparently the same is now made by other vendors. Vinci may also still sell them as well.
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