UPDATED :) Temp won't come down no matter what
#21
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The coolant cross over line at the front of the engine, is it caped off?? If it is its makes it VERY hard to get all the air out of the system. This nipple needs to go to a spot on the radiator. The factory routing on F-bodys is to the throttle body and then to a spot on the radiator near the cap. Most people by-pass the TB and go right to the radiator.
![](http://image.gmhightechperformance.com/f/tech/24279853+w200/0908gmhtp_26_z+2002_chevy_camaro_ss_496_long_block_engine_swap+coolant_crossover_tube.jpg)
![](http://image.gmhightechperformance.com/f/tech/24279853+w200/0908gmhtp_26_z+2002_chevy_camaro_ss_496_long_block_engine_swap+coolant_crossover_tube.jpg)
#22
TECH Addict
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the same issue before; bad Rad cap FTW!! less than 10$ for a new one.. The coolant was slowly and continuously routed in the coolant plastic overfill tank cause of the bad cap, so it would empty slowly the system. So when revving, it would get back to normal. The overfilled plastic reservoir was dropping coolant by small amount, so I didnt notice over time. Sign of this was some splashed coolant around the reservoir/hood.
Last edited by Johnnystock; 04-21-2011 at 04:21 AM.
#23
TECH Senior Member
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Joecar The overflow can hose comes from bottom to connection coming off radiator.
The catch can has a vent on top.
If it helps this is what I'm running for a catch can.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51137/10002/-1
The catch can has a vent on top.
If it helps this is what I'm running for a catch can.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...51137/10002/-1
#25
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had the same issue before; bad Rad cap FTW!! less than 10$ for a new one.. The coolant was slowly and continuously routed in the coolant plastic overfill tank cause of the bad cap, so it would empty slowly the system. So when revving, it would get back to normal. The overfilled plastic reservoir was dropping coolant by small amount, so I didnt notice over time. Sign of this was some splashed coolant around the reservoir/hood.
#28
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Try bleeding with the front on ramps so the air will move to the radiator and out the cap opening. Also I have to squeeze the top hose multiple times to help move the air along....Squeeze, level will drop in rad. add repaeat... You will hear the air moving through the system..Never had a problem after using this method.
Some of my buddies swear by bleeding through the steam tube but still make sure the front is higher so the air moves forward...
Some of my buddies swear by bleeding through the steam tube but still make sure the front is higher so the air moves forward...
#29
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
the way ive was taught and always works to bleed air , get a large funnel (these are great http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-24610) stick it in your radiator (i usally use the bigest one i can find at the autoparts store) , fill it up and keep the fluid full in the funnel, if your using a correct funnel the water level in the funnel should be the highest point in your coolent system, start the car and let it idle and maintain your water in the funnel, doing this while the car is warming up you should get a large amount of air once the thermostat opens up, then i proceed to continue the process for about 10min and occasionally rising the rpms and checking temp
#30
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well put new cap on and bled system like everyone said no better,it slowly rose up to 230. The funny thing driving down road stayed at 185. I do remember car used to run much cooler before going down road. I'm beginning to think maybe is dam water-pump but not totally throwing in towel yet. I have ordered the funnel kit tripblackls1 recommended. It has also had a squeaky sound.This motor also has under-drive crank pulley, I have heard those cause squeaks as well. I have already upgraded belt to goodyear gatorback. It has squeaked from day one.
I will take off belt tomorrow and confirm hopefully if water pump is bad. This thing is acting just like my 93 Formula I used to have and almost found out the hard way about not bleeding air. It did stay at 185 for about 15 seconds idling but then started to creep up again just like my LT1 used to do.
I will take off belt tomorrow and confirm hopefully if water pump is bad. This thing is acting just like my 93 Formula I used to have and almost found out the hard way about not bleeding air. It did stay at 185 for about 15 seconds idling but then started to creep up again just like my LT1 used to do.
Last edited by shoebox66; 04-21-2011 at 09:53 PM.
#31
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will purchase funnel kit before purchasing water pump just to see if that helps
Just found it on Amazon and shipping is cheaper than Summit ridiculous handiling charge as they call it.
Just found it on Amazon and shipping is cheaper than Summit ridiculous handiling charge as they call it.
Last edited by shoebox66; 04-21-2011 at 09:41 PM.
#34
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phx the cactus patch
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
13 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The best way to fill cooling system is first vacuum pump (a/c) all the air out , then let the vacuum pull the coolant mixture in . Vacuum pump at harbor freight are about $90
#35
OWN3D BY MY PROF!
iTrader: (176)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm kind of in the same boat. I think I actually lost a head gasket now in my 95. My car would drive fine, but when I had to stop for extended periods or got caught in traffic the temp would climb and peg the gauge. The day I had the melt down I came home to mess with it and found that my radiator fan wasn't coming on for some odd reason. If you added the AC system and then instantly had issues afterwards I would check to make sure that your fan is coming on and that it is in fact in the correct orientation. As in... Pulling the air through the radiator if on the back of the rad / pushing the air through the radiator if it is on the front.
#36
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm kind of in the same boat. I think I actually lost a head gasket now in my 95. My car would drive fine, but when I had to stop for extended periods or got caught in traffic the temp would climb and peg the gauge. The day I had the melt down I came home to mess with it and found that my radiator fan wasn't coming on for some odd reason. If you added the AC system and then instantly had issues afterwards I would check to make sure that your fan is coming on and that it is in fact in the correct orientation. As in... Pulling the air through the radiator if on the back of the rad / pushing the air through the radiator if it is on the front.
#38
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice ride! Your system is similar to mine in that the radiator cap is the highest point. I have no trouble with mine and did nothing "special" to bleed air. I also have an A/C condenser and a huge B&M trans cooler in fornt of the radiator. That bottom hose being cold has got to mean something. I'd try running it with the t'stat out just to rule it out for sure. Maybe something is binding it up when it's in the neck...
#39
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice ride! Your system is similar to mine in that the radiator cap is the highest point. I have no trouble with mine and did nothing "special" to bleed air. I also have an A/C condenser and a huge B&M trans cooler in fornt of the radiator. That bottom hose being cold has got to mean something. I'd try running it with the t'stat out just to rule it out for sure. Maybe something is binding it up when it's in the neck...
I bought funnel kit seemed to help some. The temp will rise but not as fast and bottom hose seems to get a little warmer now. It did not go over 225 sitting at light idling. I still think it should run cooler. I'm just going to drive it for awhile and monitor her see if it gets better. If issue persist will look into a high flow pump and maybe see about biggest radiator I can squeeze in.
The squeaking sound is gone, I put a new belt on today when checking to see if water-pump was culprit.
Last edited by shoebox66; 04-22-2011 at 10:21 PM.