shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

Its not capped off

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

I had the same issue before; bad Rad cap FTW!! less than 10$ for a new one.. The coolant was slowly and continuously routed in the coolant plastic overfill tank cause of the bad cap, so it would empty slowly the system. So when revving, it would get back to normal. The overfilled plastic reservoir was dropping coolant by small amount, so I didnt notice over time. Sign of this was some splashed coolant around the reservoir/hood.

joecar

To the port on the radiator neck that is level with the radiator cap valve plane in the neck...?

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

Yes thats correct

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

I bought new Stant cap today, going to try this as well.

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

^^let me know

jrpimp00

iTrader: (17)

MIne would do this as well as boil over when the car was turned off. Turned out that I had the overfill tank line and the vent line from the heads crossed on the radiator.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Try bleeding with the front on ramps so the air will move to the radiator and out the cap opening. Also I have to squeeze the top hose multiple times to help move the air along....Squeeze, level will drop in rad. add repaeat... You will hear the air moving through the system..Never had a problem after using this method.

Some of my buddies swear by bleeding through the steam tube but still make sure the front is higher so the air moves forward...

tripblackls1

iTrader: (11)

the way ive was taught and always works to bleed air , get a large funnel (these are great http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-24610) stick it in your radiator (i usally use the bigest one i can find at the autoparts store) , fill it up and keep the fluid full in the funnel, if your using a correct funnel the water level in the funnel should be the highest point in your coolent system, start the car and let it idle and maintain your water in the funnel, doing this while the car is warming up you should get a large amount of air once the thermostat opens up, then i proceed to continue the process for about 10min and occasionally rising the rpms and checking temp

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

Well put new cap on and bled system like everyone said no better,it slowly rose up to 230. The funny thing driving down road stayed at 185. I do remember car used to run much cooler before going down road. I'm beginning to think maybe is dam water-pump but not totally throwing in towel yet. I have ordered the funnel kit tripblackls1 recommended. It has also had a squeaky sound.This motor also has under-drive crank pulley, I have heard those cause squeaks as well. I have already upgraded belt to goodyear gatorback. It has squeaked from day one.

I will take off belt tomorrow and confirm hopefully if water pump is bad. This thing is acting just like my 93 Formula I used to have and almost found out the hard way about not bleeding air. It did stay at 185 for about 15 seconds idling but then started to creep up again just like my LT1 used to do.

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

I will purchase funnel kit before purchasing water pump just to see if that helps

Just found it on Amazon and shipping is cheaper than Summit ridiculous handiling charge as they call it.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Putting it on ramps and bleeding it cost nothing except a couple minutes but I have never had this much trouble with bleeding a syatem so maybe it is something else....

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

I will try ramps to when funnel kit comes in

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

The best way to fill cooling system is first vacuum pump (a/c) all the air out , then let the vacuum pull the coolant mixture in . Vacuum pump at harbor freight are about $90

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm kind of in the same boat. I think I actually lost a head gasket now in my 95. My car would drive fine, but when I had to stop for extended periods or got caught in traffic the temp would climb and peg the gauge. The day I had the melt down I came home to mess with it and found that my radiator fan wasn't coming on for some odd reason. If you added the AC system and then instantly had issues afterwards I would check to make sure that your fan is coming on and that it is in fact in the correct orientation. As in... Pulling the air through the radiator if on the back of the rad / pushing the air through the radiator if it is on the front.

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

I am running factory LS1 fans and computer is programed to kick them on sooner than stock.

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

Hers a few pics of my ride

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S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Nice ride! Your system is similar to mine in that the radiator cap is the highest point. I have no trouble with mine and did nothing "special" to bleed air. I also have an A/C condenser and a huge B&M trans cooler in fornt of the radiator. That bottom hose being cold has got to mean something. I'd try running it with the t'stat out just to rule it out for sure. Maybe something is binding it up when it's in the neck...

shoebox66

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I must say that is a sweet maverick, you don't see many of those on road anymore.

I bought funnel kit seemed to help some. The temp will rise but not as fast and bottom hose seems to get a little warmer now. It did not go over 225 sitting at light idling. I still think it should run cooler. I'm just going to drive it for awhile and monitor her see if it gets better. If issue persist will look into a high flow pump and maybe see about biggest radiator I can squeeze in.

The squeaking sound is gone, I put a new belt on today when checking to see if water-pump was culprit.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

Looks like a Chevy2 Nova to me ..............about a 64' . But without seeing the front or back I could be wrong . Either way that is a nice clean classic .