UPDATED :) Temp won't come down no matter what
04-23-2011, 12:52 AM
#41
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Nope shes a 66 Thanks for compliment 
That big bulky seat is gone now replaced with some 2002 Ebony Trans Am seats
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That big bulky seat is gone now replaced with some 2002 Ebony Trans Am seats
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[/IMG] Last edited by shoebox66; 04-23-2011 at 12:58 AM.
04-23-2011, 11:09 AM
#44
Nice ride! Your system is similar to mine in that the radiator cap is the highest point. I have no trouble with mine and did nothing "special" to bleed air. I also have an A/C condenser and a huge B&M trans cooler in fornt of the radiator. That bottom hose being cold has got to mean something. I'd try running it with the t'stat out just to rule it out for sure. Maybe something is binding it up when it's in the neck...
+1 on this i would definitely suspect the t'stat as well, is a factory one? i know i had a stant 180* that gave me very similar problems, i pull out the insides and they went in the trash
04-23-2011, 11:27 AM
#48
the only thing the comp does is command when to turn the fans on so they will turn on early but that is not going to hurt anything,
idk i would try to run it without a stat at all, but dont want you ruining a good stat by taking it out of the housing
i can pretty much guarantee that the gm stat will work right though
idk i would try to run it without a stat at all, but dont want you ruining a good stat by taking it out of the housing
i can pretty much guarantee that the gm stat will work right though
04-23-2011, 12:13 PM
#49
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the only thing the comp does is command when to turn the fans on so they will turn on early but that is not going to hurt anything,
idk i would try to run it without a stat at all, but dont want you ruining a good stat by taking it out of the housing
i can pretty much guarantee that the gm stat will work right though
idk i would try to run it without a stat at all, but dont want you ruining a good stat by taking it out of the housing
i can pretty much guarantee that the gm stat will work right though
04-25-2011, 05:29 PM
#53
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Not totally. It runs cool at idle soon as air conditioning is on temp starts to rise. This is sitting idling with air on going down road cool as cucumber.
I took off belt and spun water pump pulley, it makes a buzzing sound almost like a bee. When I rev engine up temp comes down, I am now thinking water pump is not pumping enough water and about to fail. It has a ATI pulley which slows down so its even worse probably if water pump is not pumping enough. Do you think Edelbrock would be good choice?
I took off belt and spun water pump pulley, it makes a buzzing sound almost like a bee. When I rev engine up temp comes down, I am now thinking water pump is not pumping enough water and about to fail. It has a ATI pulley which slows down so its even worse probably if water pump is not pumping enough. Do you think Edelbrock would be good choice?
04-25-2011, 07:23 PM
#55
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
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Are your heater hoses blocked off? I know some vintage air kits include a shut off valve. If so try allowing the coolant to flow through the shutoff valve by turning the heater on or bypassing the heater by looping the heater hoses together.
Since the thermostat is located on the inlet to the engine the heater hoses must be circulating or the thermostat will open late. Give it a try and report back.
Since the thermostat is located on the inlet to the engine the heater hoses must be circulating or the thermostat will open late. Give it a try and report back.
Last edited by -Joseph-; 04-26-2011 at 12:27 AM.
04-26-2011, 01:58 AM
#57
Certainly not on an engine with 10k miles but I've seen these exact same symptoms on a car I owned in Japan. Was a 93 mitsu GTO (3000GT VR4 here) and the issue was that the bearing had gone out in the water pump (powered by timing belt.....just dumb). This would cause coolant loss over time and it would squeal once in a while. You never saw any coolant leaking at is evaporated before it could collect. Revving it would cause cavitation but it would still flow more and cool down.
04-26-2011, 10:23 AM
#58
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Certainly not on an engine with 10k miles but I've seen these exact same symptoms on a car I owned in Japan. Was a 93 mitsu GTO (3000GT VR4 here) and the issue was that the bearing had gone out in the water pump (powered by timing belt.....just dumb). This would cause coolant loss over time and it would squeal once in a while. You never saw any coolant leaking at is evaporated before it could collect. Revving it would cause cavitation but it would still flow more and cool down.
So I'm fixing to fix that issue buying this radiator below no frigging epoxy anywhere. I noticed on my radiator at neck they did not even weld around the where it seems to tank. It leaks there to
They even had nerve to tell me to add bars leaks!This is a three row, They will make hose connection in same location as now. I will have just enough clearance before back of LS1 fan gets close to belt
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[/IMG]The other manufacture welds even around neck
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[/IMG] Last edited by shoebox66; 04-26-2011 at 12:34 PM.
04-26-2011, 10:06 PM
#59
I'm glad you possibly have it figured out. I went through trouble shooting my whole coolant system yesterday and have it pinned down to either the radiator having a leak or being blocked. It sounds like we're going to have the same to do tasks coming up.
04-26-2011, 10:39 PM
#60
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I may even take that stupid ATI under-drive pulley off to.