Do I need rod bolts?
Bout time you show up KCS...
Anyways I never said you don't have to resize with ar bolts. Infact I'm always a proponent of resizing in threads entitled..."why did my **** break, I had arp bolts but didn't resize"...type of stuff.
6800 is way beyond the stock redline of 6000 rpms. So why on earth would you push a stock known weak component past its limits that far? Esp when rod bolts are so cheap and simple?. Even with arp bolts, pulling the engine and replacing all the bearings rings and rod bolts is cake compared to pulling your engine and wondering why its in peices...don't you think?
Anyways I never said you don't have to resize with ar bolts. Infact I'm always a proponent of resizing in threads entitled..."why did my **** break, I had arp bolts but didn't resize"...type of stuff.
6800 is way beyond the stock redline of 6000 rpms. So why on earth would you push a stock known weak component past its limits that far? Esp when rod bolts are so cheap and simple?. Even with arp bolts, pulling the engine and replacing all the bearings rings and rod bolts is cake compared to pulling your engine and wondering why its in peices...don't you think?
6800 is way beyond the stock redline of 6000 rpms. There you said it.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: osawatomie ks
i can see the need to swap out my factory rod bolts for a higher quality bolt such as arp or katech. I questions are about resizing them? I could find it feizable and cost effective if i was rebuilding the motor but to rip the block apart and basically rebuild it just to resize the rod ends isnt making sense to me. is there a problem with just using higher quality replacement bolts?
Redline...not rev limit...there is a difference paco. If he is going to turn it to 6800, his rev limit is going to be 7000 or so.
And no I'm not trying to get everyone to replace their rod bolts. What I am trying to do is get idiots like you to stop spreading bs as gospel esp with other peoples engines. Id be pretty pissed if I didn't know any better and asked this question and a bunch of cheap skates like you told me I didn't need the bolts and one failed on me and took my entire engine with it.
What your saying here is exactly like saying "if your only putting 425 at the wheels, you don't need a 12 bolt, you'll be fine with the 10 bolt. But if you push 450 you definately need a 12 bolt." It makes no sense. If your borderline or even in doubt, upgrade.
And no I'm not trying to get everyone to replace their rod bolts. What I am trying to do is get idiots like you to stop spreading bs as gospel esp with other peoples engines. Id be pretty pissed if I didn't know any better and asked this question and a bunch of cheap skates like you told me I didn't need the bolts and one failed on me and took my entire engine with it.
What your saying here is exactly like saying "if your only putting 425 at the wheels, you don't need a 12 bolt, you'll be fine with the 10 bolt. But if you push 450 you definately need a 12 bolt." It makes no sense. If your borderline or even in doubt, upgrade.
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I didn't even read half of what you just wrote bww. Your
Really a dumb *** go talk the bolt on guys into rebuilding there shortblock so they can get some rod bolts just for insurance. I really don't get how you think pulling the engine re ringing it and changing all your bearings just to change rod bolts that can prob get the job done is a better option.
Really a dumb *** go talk the bolt on guys into rebuilding there shortblock so they can get some rod bolts just for insurance. I really don't get how you think pulling the engine re ringing it and changing all your bearings just to change rod bolts that can prob get the job done is a better option.
Damn good question. I have always wondered this. From what I have read in the past you should check for any out of roundness after installing aftermarket rod bolts in any rod. And a lot of times it will need to be resized to make it perfectly round again after a stronger rod bolt is installed. Thats what makes me weary of the whole rod bolt replacement deal. I am assuming Katech has found a way around this by maybe not having a higher torque requirement just using a stronger bolt?
Because "probably" getting the job done is not going to save your engine if it "probably" doesn't hold. I never said you HAD to replace bearings and rings to install rod bolts. Its just a good opportunity to if it needs it.
And why would I direct a bolt on guy to replace rod bolts? He shouldn't be spinning it past stock, if he does he is just a dumb as you. The reason I say this is because if you think the amount of stress added to a rod bolt is greater at 6800 to 7000 than 6000 to 6800, your an idiot.
You and your possiblys and probablys and should be ok's need to hit the road before someone beleives you and ruins their engine.
And why would I direct a bolt on guy to replace rod bolts? He shouldn't be spinning it past stock, if he does he is just a dumb as you. The reason I say this is because if you think the amount of stress added to a rod bolt is greater at 6800 to 7000 than 6000 to 6800, your an idiot.
You and your possiblys and probablys and should be ok's need to hit the road before someone beleives you and ruins their engine.
Sorry let me resay that 01 and new will get the job done when you set the limiter to 6800 dumb ****. Also the growth in pressure on the rod bolt is not linear so yes going from 6800 to 7k is a big jump in pressure your a dumb ***.
I never said stress was linier, but your not going to tell me a 200 rpm jump will gain more stress than an 800 rpm jump. Sorry but your retarded.
The limiter should not be relied on unless your an idiot and think bouncing it off the limiter is cool. The limiter is there for people like you who don't understand why its there and think because its there means its safe.
Gm can void a warranty for going over the stock 6000 (ls1) or 6400 (ls6) redline. And if you hit the limiter, you either missed a shift or are a complete dumb ***.
The limiter should not be relied on unless your an idiot and think bouncing it off the limiter is cool. The limiter is there for people like you who don't understand why its there and think because its there means its safe.
Gm can void a warranty for going over the stock 6000 (ls1) or 6400 (ls6) redline. And if you hit the limiter, you either missed a shift or are a complete dumb ***.
Many people have fallures from simply installing arp rod bolts. I believe you yourself have even had a bearing let go because of that. So really the only safe way to install them even katech ones is to pull then engine apart and resize the rod for the new bolts. Which at that point you basicly doing a rebuild of the engine. If you really pushing a lot of rpms 7k+ you should do it. But for a 6800 revlimit the upgraded factory bolts are fine.
I was concerned about the rod bolts when I had pat g spec my cam. Here's what some big shops said 01+ rod bolts will take without issue.
Texas speed said they can take 7k and they said they run them all the time at that speed
Pat G also said 7k is the limit for 01 bolts
Thunder racing said 6800 is fine over that and they suggest arp rod bolts.
Geoff skinner at eps told me he tells his customers they can take 6600 no problem all day. He also said they can take more then that but he leaves it to the customer to decide how hard to push it. He told me I would be fine setting my limiter to 6800 and shifting at 6600.
Those are several shops and people smarter then me and you when it comes to these engines and all of them said 6800 was fine with the stock 01 rod bolts so STFU
I was concerned about the rod bolts when I had pat g spec my cam. Here's what some big shops said 01+ rod bolts will take without issue.
Texas speed said they can take 7k and they said they run them all the time at that speed
Pat G also said 7k is the limit for 01 bolts
Thunder racing said 6800 is fine over that and they suggest arp rod bolts.
Geoff skinner at eps told me he tells his customers they can take 6600 no problem all day. He also said they can take more then that but he leaves it to the customer to decide how hard to push it. He told me I would be fine setting my limiter to 6800 and shifting at 6600.
Those are several shops and people smarter then me and you when it comes to these engines and all of them said 6800 was fine with the stock 01 rod bolts so STFU