Pushrod length?
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Should I worry about the stock pushrod length after the heads were shaved?
Not sure how much the machine shop took off the heads.
I suspect not much. Maybe just enough to clean them up and make them shiny.
Thanks
Not sure how much the machine shop took off the heads.
I suspect not much. Maybe just enough to clean them up and make them shiny.
Thanks
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Noticed that #3 exhaust pushrod has severe wear on one end.
The ball end is worn like egg shape almost. And the color is not bright but is more of a brushed steel look.
There are definite wear marks you can feel with your fingernail.
Pretty sure I need new, but do I replace all 16 as a set or just the bad ones. Noticed a few more with same wear.
Not sure if rocker or lifter end.
What else do I need to look for?
Thanks
The ball end is worn like egg shape almost. And the color is not bright but is more of a brushed steel look.
There are definite wear marks you can feel with your fingernail.
Pretty sure I need new, but do I replace all 16 as a set or just the bad ones. Noticed a few more with same wear.
Not sure if rocker or lifter end.
What else do I need to look for?
Thanks
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I think you really need to know how much the shop took off, also make sure you didnt have to much preload. Have you run the car yet with the milled heads or was the damage you speak of on the pushros already there? Do you have a stock cam? Did you use factory gaskets? I am no guru myself but I know the more Info the better so that someone that knows more than me can give you a good idea what is going on. also if you are still using the stock pushrods its a good idea to change them anyway once you get it sorted out.
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I think you really need to know how much the shop took off, also make sure you didnt have to much preload. Have you run the car yet with the milled heads or was the damage you speak of on the pushros already there? Do you have a stock cam? Did you use factory gaskets? I am no guru myself but I know the more Info the better so that someone that knows more than me can give you a good idea what is going on. also if you are still using the stock pushrods its a good idea to change them anyway once you get it sorted out.
Guess I need to check the seats on the rockers too.
Well there goes my budget ($1000) rebuild.
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Just went out and looked at a couple of the rockers. The seats have excessive wear just like the pushrods.
The rods that look good the rockers also look good.
So should I replace all the pushrods and all the rockers or just the bad ones?
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id replace them all just to be safe. the machine shop probably shaved .010 to clean them up. i dont think anyone makes a 7.390 pushrod unless its custom. you should be fine with 7.4s. summitracing.com has howards pushrods for like 93 bucks or trickflow. good luck
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Stock length is not 7.400", but 7.385". If they removed 0.010", then a set of 7.375" should work.
I would also pick up some Redline Assembly Lube and put it on the top and bottom of each pushrod, in the rocker cup and on each valve stem during assembly. This will ensure you don't have a dry valve train on start. Also, coat the rockers liberally with oil just before putting on the valve covers. I soak my pushrods in oil as well when I install and then put my finger over the end as I install them, this keeps oil in the pushrods to reduce the time for oil to reach the rockers.
I would also pick up some Redline Assembly Lube and put it on the top and bottom of each pushrod, in the rocker cup and on each valve stem during assembly. This will ensure you don't have a dry valve train on start. Also, coat the rockers liberally with oil just before putting on the valve covers. I soak my pushrods in oil as well when I install and then put my finger over the end as I install them, this keeps oil in the pushrods to reduce the time for oil to reach the rockers.
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Not sure if it matters, probably does being that all these newer type GM engines are all the same but all different it seems........
This is a 2000 5.3 L 1500 Silverado. LM7 I believe.
Thanks
Vettenuts
I like the idea of the way you keep oil in the pushrod like a straw. Pretty neat. Will probably try it when I get a new set.
This is a 2000 5.3 L 1500 Silverado. LM7 I believe.
Thanks
Vettenuts
I like the idea of the way you keep oil in the pushrod like a straw. Pretty neat. Will probably try it when I get a new set.
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Stock length is not 7.400", but 7.385". If they removed 0.010", then a set of 7.375" should work.
I would also pick up some Redline Assembly Lube and put it on the top and bottom of each pushrod, in the rocker cup and on each valve stem during assembly. This will ensure you don't have a dry valve train on start. Also, coat the rockers liberally with oil just before putting on the valve covers. I soak my pushrods in oil as well when I install and then put my finger over the end as I install them, this keeps oil in the pushrods to reduce the time for oil to reach the rockers.
I would also pick up some Redline Assembly Lube and put it on the top and bottom of each pushrod, in the rocker cup and on each valve stem during assembly. This will ensure you don't have a dry valve train on start. Also, coat the rockers liberally with oil just before putting on the valve covers. I soak my pushrods in oil as well when I install and then put my finger over the end as I install them, this keeps oil in the pushrods to reduce the time for oil to reach the rockers.
Called two diff auto parts and the length they said they show for stock is 7.318"
dadgum this is so confusing.
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Found a full set of rockers and pushrods for $75 from an old junk motor.
They were in excellent shape and still had clean engine oil on them. Who ever had that engine took good care of it.
I just hope they survived the fire the vehicle was in.
They were in excellent shape and still had clean engine oil on them. Who ever had that engine took good care of it.
I just hope they survived the fire the vehicle was in.