Ron@Vengeance

iTrader: (51)

Lamar, thats just Josh getting some practice in. He CLAIMS one day hes actually unstrapping from the dyno and hitting the track. IF, and I mean IF that ever happens he will need to pucker up. Cause he will be kissing my *** GOODBYE all the way down the 1320


FWIW in regards to the post. The overall setup of the car is going to matter ALOT more than the motor itself. I run 10s in a 346, as do several others off this board. I also see 427s running mid 11s on here. Set your car up to meet your goals and have fun...

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

Is it going to take a spectacular head to achieve the HP needed....not that I would want anything less!!!

Do you think that BMR LCA's, LCA Brackets, Adj. Panhard Rod, SFC, and a Torque arm enough suspension and chasis parts to plant the power (I will also get some Hals). The Moser 12 bolt should hold up too right?? I have 4.11's with 33 spline axles....barely any miles on it.

What cam would I go with...I want a cam with more lope to it then my current 230/236 112 lsa cam also.

Is Futral and AP the leaders on affordability? Also is there any people out there that have a ironblock from AP..or anybody else that have any track numbers in the 10's NA?

Mike K.

From the research I did I found that both AP and Futral where comparitively priced and both seem to have good customer service. Call them and see who you like better and go from there. And yes with a 409 you are going to need alot more cam lol althought I am not sure how much bigger.

And Vince you know since I need new heads I may as well go 409, AP swapped my alum block for the iron one so I figure this was the way to go HP wise.

Candy

Mike#9 - Give Allan a call or shoot him an e-mail and he can give you some options and ideas for a sweet setup.

Good luck!

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

You should have still came and laid the smack down on that Z06..

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I hear you Mike. What heads are you going with? APE 5.7's, 6.0's, 5.3's, LS6's or someone else's heads?

Mike K.

Im going with the AP s2's 6.0 ltr with welded chambers. I may have gone with another companys heads but the whole warantee thing I think would be better if I get everything at the same shop,, especially since I now need a new longblock.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Hey Mike #9. Call both companies and see who you fell most comfortable with.

As far as heads go AP does a bunch of short blocks with Absolute speed heads.
It is a great combo. LG motorsports also uses AS heads, and their numbers speak for themselves. As far as running 10's and what else is required, there is alot more.
If you take a motor that makes 500+ hp and throw it in a car you just bought from the dealership, then make a pass in the 1/4 mile. You will probally screw up a ton of stuff from no tuning. Lets just say you had it tuned, you would still probally run 12's.
suspension plays a big role.
I would say that the list you included would be a very good way to go. You already have the 12 bolt out of the way.
As far as a cam goes here is where you would be best off talking to your engine builder. I wouldn't go any less than a 240 duration cam.
Weight will also play a big role in how fast your car is.
Just a example Angie from Thunder ran a 10.8 in a small cam only car. But it weighed 3080 lbs with her in it. There are a few stock *** nasty looking Mustangs around here that run mid 11's and only make 260 horse.
They weight like 2600 lbs. The one guy ran 10.9x with 338 Horse.
You couldn't pay me to drive the car, but different strokes for different folks I guess.
Plus I still beat both of them.
One thing you forgot is Tires and wheels. To cut the 1.3x 60ft's you will need the right combo here as well.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

angies car has ported heads on it.

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

You guys think that 6.0L heads would be ok....I can save the money over the LS6's! Would they make the power though?

Also...how do you guys feel about a 110 lsa cam...does it have enough range within the powerband to be a good track cam/and street cam. I don't want a peaky cam per se'....but I would like the cam to hit like a motha fu%^er.

Mike K.

I think compression is the issue with the larger motors which is why everybody used the 6 ltr heads. They have the same port design as the ls6 but they won't bump up the compression like the ls6 heads will. 110 lsa will move the power band lower in the curve and you will feel the lope more. Basically and I mean real basic here the lower the lsa the less streetable the car will become but the lower your peak power will be. When you decide who is going to do your engine build up they will recommend a cam for you based on what you want out of it.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

As I said before the 6.0 heads will be fine, just remember they are a lower compression then the LS1/5.3 or LS6 heads.
The 6 liter and LS6 heads are nearly exactly the same with the difference being the cc's, which is why the compression is different.
When you have the motor built you need to know if you will be using the 6.0 heads or the LS6 heads so you can choose the right piston.

As far as a 110LSA. I believe it would work great.
You said something about using Nitrous in your first post, and this is why I suggested a 112 or a 113 LSA.

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

I have a 230/236 112 lsa cam now....and it hits pretty hard...but if I did a big cube motor, I would like it to hit harder. So by doing a 111 or 110...does that totally rule out nitrous ( or just a lot of NOS)?

Would the car run well on a 110 or 111...or is that over kill. What about cam timing. If I grind in some timing..can that help broaden the powerband??

Thanks for everything so far guys..it is helping a lot!! KEEP IT COMING!!!

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

TTT for me!!

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

Any LS1 motor in 418 cubes or bigger that is put together professionally with the right cam, tuning, stage III lS6 heads and the proper bolt (and of course full length headers) including big stall on A4 with gears or gears on a M6 will get you there, assumming traction of course!!!!!

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

I have a M6. All BMR stuff. Moser 12 bolt w/4.11's....everything except a couple of things are in place...I am just looking for the best motor to get me there and the most econmical..but yet quality way to do it.