Got my cam in! Torquer v3 With vid and pics! A Few tips also!
06-06-2011, 11:12 AM
#1
Got my cam in! Torquer v3 With vid and pics! A Few tips also! So some of you know, i was in the middle of a Cam install this weekend. Overall, the install wasnt too bad. Nothing was really hard, just very time consuming. I started on it saturday morning and finished up sunday night. Actual time spent working on the car was probably about 10-12 hours total. I took breaks and had to make trips to the parts store a few time ect ect, so it took me all day both days. But im very happy with it, it sounds MEAN. And it pulls like a freight train. I have really got on it real hard yet because of it being untuned and being a day old. I have a previous post about having trouble with my intake and had a few ppl ask about keep them posted with the cam install so i decided to make a new post. For any one about to attempt this job, I will give my honest opinion and tips from my experience with this install..
First of all, if you installed headers on a car, you can install a cam. LS1howto.com is a great write and is the one I used. Just take your time and be patient!! So save yourself some money and install the cam yourself.
-Tear down is pretty simple and straight forward, I got #8 cylinder's spark plug out from the top. I had to basically sit on the battery on my knees and reach back and get it. Have your coil packs/valve covers removed to give yourself more room.
-I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS TOOL!!!!! This will make swapping valve springs a BREEZE. This is for sale btw if anyone wants it, PM for details.
-Next, which i also HIGHLY recommend, Get a leak down test kit, and use the spark plug fitting to pump air into the cylinder to hold your valves up! Its very easy to do. I also did the TDC method along with this for extra safety.
-BUY A PEN MAGNET! it makes getting the locks off of the valve very easy, and pulling the old seats of. Also use grease or o-ring jelly on the inside of the locks, and just stick them on to the valve. Then raise your valve spring tool up and they will automatically line up the retainer with the locks.
-When installing your new valve stem seals make sure that all the oil retaining rings on the top of the seal dont break off when you use a socket to tap them on. I had 1 break on me and i had to dig around in the pools of oil on top of the head with the pen magnet till i found it.
-Go to Hobby lobby and spend $1.20 on 2 5/16"DIA 32" long wooden dowels and cut them down to about 21-22" long and use those as lifter holder tools. That way you save some money.
-You WILL need Red/Blue Loctite, and some RTV Gasket maker and brake cleaner!
-I recommend also replacing your idler pulleys and AC belt while your in there, itll make it much easier on u later on.
Thats about all I can think of right now.. Heres a couple videos, and pictures. Enjoy... O also, dont mind the duct tape on the Air lid, the previous owner broke it and taped it up, and i havent had a chance to order a new one.
Video 1
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...t=dc144ad1.mp4
Video 2
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...t=9fca2052.mp4
'
First of all, if you installed headers on a car, you can install a cam. LS1howto.com is a great write and is the one I used. Just take your time and be patient!! So save yourself some money and install the cam yourself.
-Tear down is pretty simple and straight forward, I got #8 cylinder's spark plug out from the top. I had to basically sit on the battery on my knees and reach back and get it. Have your coil packs/valve covers removed to give yourself more room.
-I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS TOOL!!!!! This will make swapping valve springs a BREEZE. This is for sale btw if anyone wants it, PM for details.
-Next, which i also HIGHLY recommend, Get a leak down test kit, and use the spark plug fitting to pump air into the cylinder to hold your valves up! Its very easy to do. I also did the TDC method along with this for extra safety.
-BUY A PEN MAGNET! it makes getting the locks off of the valve very easy, and pulling the old seats of. Also use grease or o-ring jelly on the inside of the locks, and just stick them on to the valve. Then raise your valve spring tool up and they will automatically line up the retainer with the locks.
-When installing your new valve stem seals make sure that all the oil retaining rings on the top of the seal dont break off when you use a socket to tap them on. I had 1 break on me and i had to dig around in the pools of oil on top of the head with the pen magnet till i found it.
-Go to Hobby lobby and spend $1.20 on 2 5/16"DIA 32" long wooden dowels and cut them down to about 21-22" long and use those as lifter holder tools. That way you save some money.
-You WILL need Red/Blue Loctite, and some RTV Gasket maker and brake cleaner!
-I recommend also replacing your idler pulleys and AC belt while your in there, itll make it much easier on u later on.
Thats about all I can think of right now.. Heres a couple videos, and pictures. Enjoy... O also, dont mind the duct tape on the Air lid, the previous owner broke it and taped it up, and i havent had a chance to order a new one.
Video 1
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...t=dc144ad1.mp4
Video 2
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...t=9fca2052.mp4
' 
06-06-2011, 11:39 AM
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Rochester,Ny
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks nice and sounds good.Looks like you did a good job
But i have a ?What did you use red loctite on?Blue is all you should use on these motors.Red will make it very difficult to remove a bolt,you usually need heat to get them out,and its just not necessary when blue is plenty strong.
And secondly,you said you used the TDC method when changing valve springs,so why did you go through the hassle of pulling the plugs and using the air too.Whenever i change valve springs on any motor i just use the top dead center method,its much easier and saves a hole bunch of time.
But i have a ?What did you use red loctite on?Blue is all you should use on these motors.Red will make it very difficult to remove a bolt,you usually need heat to get them out,and its just not necessary when blue is plenty strong.
And secondly,you said you used the TDC method when changing valve springs,so why did you go through the hassle of pulling the plugs and using the air too.Whenever i change valve springs on any motor i just use the top dead center method,its much easier and saves a hole bunch of time.
06-06-2011, 12:04 PM
#3
looks nice and sounds good.Looks like you did a good job
But i have a ?What did you use red loctite on?Blue is all you should use on these motors.Red will make it very difficult to remove a bolt,you usually need heat to get them out,and its just not necessary when blue is plenty strong.
And secondly,you said you used the TDC method when changing valve springs,so why did you go through the hassle of pulling the plugs and using the air too.Whenever i change valve springs on any motor i just use the top dead center method,its much easier and saves a hole bunch of time.
But i have a ?What did you use red loctite on?Blue is all you should use on these motors.Red will make it very difficult to remove a bolt,you usually need heat to get them out,and its just not necessary when blue is plenty strong.
And secondly,you said you used the TDC method when changing valve springs,so why did you go through the hassle of pulling the plugs and using the air too.Whenever i change valve springs on any motor i just use the top dead center method,its much easier and saves a hole bunch of time.
this is my first time doing a cam, so i wanted to b extra careful, i had the time.. when I put the air nozzle in, it would actually turn the motor a little and move the timing mark out of place for the cylinders to be at TDC. even with the car in gear it would jump back and forth. as soon as id get the locks off the valve and pull the valves up a bit, it would make a thunk sound and seal the valves up and it just leaked a little air through the oil pan...im assuming blowby...
06-06-2011, 12:05 PM
#4
Damn thing idles great not to be tuned. Well its about time you invest in some good shocks and front springs so you can get that traction problem fixed and you'll be gone.
06-06-2011, 12:21 PM
#5
lol yea. i have the 315 nitto nt01s on it and it still hooks pretty damn good, i havent felt it spin them yet.....mabe my car jsut sucks 
...lol. And i was also impressed with how well it idles. When you first start it, it hunts for the idle for a couple of minutes. Dips to like 300rpm then up to 1000rpm, and itll finally settle in.
...lol. And i was also impressed with how well it idles. When you first start it, it hunts for the idle for a couple of minutes. Dips to like 300rpm then up to 1000rpm, and itll finally settle in.
06-06-2011, 12:28 PM
#6
same cam here , im on the tuning work right now,,
heres my car w/o tune
grat job man
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IU0cHt2afvw
heres my car w/o tune
grat job man
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IU0cHt2afvw
Last edited by 1964_442; 06-06-2011 at 12:33 PM.
Trending Topics
06-06-2011, 12:55 PM
#8
same cam here , im on the tuning work right now,,
heres my car w/o tune
grat job man
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IU0cHt2afvw
heres my car w/o tune
grat job man
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IU0cHt2afvw
Thanks man. as far as I know. My previous tune is just the stock tuning so I dunno why it idles so well.
06-06-2011, 04:30 PM
#11
On The Tree
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my car sounded like it was already tuned after the cam install too lol. obviously had it tuned to optimize it but it really doesn't sound any different. i was dealing with a smaller cam too though.
