Head instl questions
07-26-2011, 05:47 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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Head instl questions Installed TR230 cam, LS7 lifters, Patriot stage 2.5 heads (59cc) and Yella Terra light weight roller rockers. I am using MLS .051 gaskets, should I use Permatex copper gasket sealer and if so both sides of gaskets? How can I be sure no. 1 cylinder is on fireing stroke (lifters on base circle) when front cover is on? I did set my new Powerbond blancer so TDC mark matches with dot to dot of cam and crank (crank 12 oclock, cam 6 oclock).
Edit: Adding ARP head bolts
Edit: Adding ARP head bolts
Last edited by 99C5Coupe; 07-26-2011 at 06:11 AM.
07-26-2011, 07:18 AM
#2
Unless you are spraying the hell out of it or boosting it there's really no reason to use the copper coat. Those gaskets seal good by themselves.
To you mean how to find if #1 is on TDC? Once you get the lifters in you can turn the engine over by hand and watch them go up and down.
The engine is internally balanced so it doesn't matter where the timing marks are. I have the same balancer. You will also notice that there is no key way on the crank/balancer to orientate them.
You probably already know but make sure to check for the wipe pattern with those rocker arms. I've personally never used them bunch there are a lot of people and some really good threads on how to set them up on here.
Let us know if there's anything else.
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Added.
It sounds like you are like me and are a Gen 1 SBC guy by a few of the questions you asked. Also remember that the intake lobe is the second lifter back on #1. The first time I degreed my cam I couldn't figure it out why the numbers didn't make since. I was using the exhaust valve. Ooops.
To you mean how to find if #1 is on TDC? Once you get the lifters in you can turn the engine over by hand and watch them go up and down.
The engine is internally balanced so it doesn't matter where the timing marks are. I have the same balancer. You will also notice that there is no key way on the crank/balancer to orientate them.
You probably already know but make sure to check for the wipe pattern with those rocker arms. I've personally never used them bunch there are a lot of people and some really good threads on how to set them up on here.
Let us know if there's anything else.
--------
Added.
It sounds like you are like me and are a Gen 1 SBC guy by a few of the questions you asked. Also remember that the intake lobe is the second lifter back on #1. The first time I degreed my cam I couldn't figure it out why the numbers didn't make since. I was using the exhaust valve. Ooops.
07-26-2011, 07:36 AM
#3
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Yes, I checked the wipe pattern and had to use the shim which came with them.
I will not bother spraying the gaskets if there is no problem sealing. I had done a search and saw that some people were having issues.
I did think the the first valve was the intake, now the lights are flickering!
I will not bother spraying the gaskets if there is no problem sealing. I had done a search and saw that some people were having issues.
I did think the the first valve was the intake, now the lights are flickering!
07-26-2011, 07:52 AM
#4
Just make sure you get all the old gasket material off, I think that's the main reason for people having problems. F/I guys push those gaskets pretty hard so they do seal well. I used a roloc disc that was designed for aluminum.
Double/triple check that you have the head bolt holes clean. The threads are deep in the block and it's hard to tell sometimes. A long blow nozzle works well. ARP sells a thread chaser specifically for LS engines but I don't have the part number for it. Some people take a stock head bolt and cut grooves in the threads and use that. When you think the holes are clean check them again. LOL. The last thing you want to do is crack your block when you tighten the head bolts down. The holes aren't blind so they have to be completely clean.
Double/triple check that you have the head bolt holes clean. The threads are deep in the block and it's hard to tell sometimes. A long blow nozzle works well. ARP sells a thread chaser specifically for LS engines but I don't have the part number for it. Some people take a stock head bolt and cut grooves in the threads and use that. When you think the holes are clean check them again. LOL. The last thing you want to do is crack your block when you tighten the head bolts down. The holes aren't blind so they have to be completely clean.
07-26-2011, 08:05 AM
#5
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Just make sure you get all the old gasket material off, I think that's the main reason for people having problems. F/I guys push those gaskets pretty hard so they do seal well. I used a roloc disc that was designed for aluminum.
Double/triple check that you have the head bolt holes clean. The threads are deep in the block and it's hard to tell sometimes. A long blow nozzle works well. ARP sells a thread chaser specifically for LS engines but I don't have the part number for it. Some people take a stock head bolt and cut grooves in the threads and use that. When you think the holes are clean check them again. LOL. The last thing you want to do is crack your block when you tighten the head bolts down. The holes aren't blind so they have to be completely clean.
Double/triple check that you have the head bolt holes clean. The threads are deep in the block and it's hard to tell sometimes. A long blow nozzle works well. ARP sells a thread chaser specifically for LS engines but I don't have the part number for it. Some people take a stock head bolt and cut grooves in the threads and use that. When you think the holes are clean check them again. LOL. The last thing you want to do is crack your block when you tighten the head bolts down. The holes aren't blind so they have to be completely clean.
