ptv clearance issue? rod bearing? engine knock/tap
#22
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blackss, so what was your decision for a rebuild, did you go stroker kit, or forged bottom end, or just stock rebuild?. anyone know off hane what a stock crank kit costs? then i'd get good bearings. or is that just a waste of my time and i should just get a forged kit and do it right the first time and only once. thats how i am with my stuff, i dont want to take this motor out again next year.
#23
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i thought for sure the 10 bolt was going to explode before this happened, now ill build the motor and the first time i drive it, the rear will probably go kaboom, just my luck. might as well sell the drag wheels to fix the motor.
#24
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Machine shop had an LQ4 shortblock that the machine shop owner was gonna use for a project, but that project never got started. He sold it to me for $300. It was disassembled, so I bought new bearings and piston rings from him, and had him hone the rod ends for my ARP bolts. Was out the door for like $530 and assembled it myself.
#25
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Here's the thread to my whole debacle, from when I blew the stock engine to the bad shortblock i bought to the lq4 build.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-m...rogress-5.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-m...rogress-5.html
#26
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so financially I don't think i will be able to build a 383 right now, so it looks like the engine will come out and all new bearings installed. new main caps, and arp bolts. I will get clevite bearings and then the car should be back on the road and good to go for a long time seeing it only makes it to the track 2-3 times a year and only driven about 2500-3000 miles a year.
#27
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I love the tusnami cam, sounds awesome and drives very well. now that the motor is coming out, I may have to do a custom cam to get the most out of my heads now. so all the followers of this thread, someone may be able to own a 1000 mile next to new tsunami.