I just finished my cam install. I luckily had access to the tool that the dealerships use to install the crank pulley, its just like the one byunspeed sells. It still went on hard even with the tool, If I were to do it again I would just heat the pulley a little with a propane torch and they slide right on.

 

Finally got the car back after the guy at the second shop installed a helicoil and reset my pulley. He only charged me $80!

I got everything reinstalled today and fired it up. It started on the second try without any issues and ran really well when I idoled it for about 5-7 minutes. However when I went to move it to a different spot in my driveway the brakes weren't working well. They would only compress about 1 inch and they certainly aren't suitable for actual driving. I have no clue why there would be an issue with the brakes considering I didn't do anything with them.

Another thing is that when I came back to the car a few hours later and stared it up (it sounded good) but the engine was running very hot and there was a white smoke coming out of the exhaust. I checked the dipstick and the oil level was definitely lower than it was earlier in the day. So I assume I am burning oil?

It just seems to be one thing after another with this install.

 

sadly your probably going to have to get used to the brakes. by going to a bigger cam with more overlap you lose vacuum that is necessary to run the brake booster and that makes your brakes harder to push down

 

there is no way the brakes should be affected this much. they have a real tough time stopping the car even when it's hardly rolling. it's at a shop now and they're looking into the brakes

 

Review everything you took apart, especially any vacuum lines that might effect the brakes. Not familiar with the GTO, what needs removal for the cam (I have a Vette).

On the smoke, white usually indicates burning coolant or lean conditions. Is the white smoke while idling? If so, is it just condensation?

Did you touch any part of the cooling system? You didn't mention heads so I assume those weren't touched.

 

How about cooling the bolt with CO2 or spray ether (starting fluid)? Then quickly put the wrench on and see if it turns.

 

I believe he got it buddy.........

 

Just happened to check back in on this thread I started a couple years ago.

Brakes were stiff because the line to the booster came loose. That simple.

Oil was low because the front seal didn't seal up properly with the RTV. Replaced the gasket and new RTV.

Got it tuned down at Slowhawk in Bridgewater, MA. 382rwhp/359rwtq. Don worked his magic and got the engine to idle around 950 rmp. Very drivable even with the cam.

Car has been running perfectly since then. 3 years and 8,000 miles.

Hope this thread might have helped someone else stuck on a cam install.

 

Couldn't have said this better myself, someone needs to fix that site. I can't count how many cranks have been ruined over that website. Helpful YES, 100% accurate not at all. I hate to hear this but hopefully its just stretched.

 

Thanks for the update. I hate reading threads where the OP never posts the outcome. Glad you got it all sorted.