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Thinking about switching cams.

Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Default Thinking about switching cams.

I've had my PatG cam in since about 2007 and I'm starting to not even notice it anymore. I'm starting to want something a little more violent, but with the same street manners.

Wondering if I bumped the compression up a little with better heads if it will add some snap.... but I also need gears/S60. (later this year)

I'm not really one for an off-the-shelf cam, and I'm not really one for a genaric "MS3" or "TQR V2" answer...

Wondering about grinds in itself. Maybe around 230/232 .610 .620 112. Not EXACTLY that, but something around that duration/lift/ICL.

Ideas?
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Might help if you post what size your current cam is...
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Why not have pat gring you something bigger??
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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^ Yeah.. I figured people would be familiar with those by now.. And I've thought about contacting Pat about it, but I'd do that when I'm ready to buy it. He charges for specs. But for now I'm just looking for ideas.

It's a 224/228 .637 .639 110 with ported 2004 ZO6 243 heads and sodium valves. It has great street manners and really screams above 3000 when it starts to REALLY wake up. I've snapped a couple passenger's heads on a 3rd gear snap at 65, but I just don't feel it anymore. I do need to upgrade my headers and pretty much the full exhaust (Outdated LT's.) And I should be ready for a new rear later this year.


And this is a street machine that may see the track once a year. I'm shooting for 460/430~RW by next summer.
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 11:17 PM
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What about TEA powdered metal guide TFS 215s @ 58cc chambers and say
around a 230/234 .6ish lift 112cl +4. The static compression should allow you
to sneak a tad more duration in with streetable manners and the heads will
make a bit more midrange power. Also those QTP headers look REAL sweet
for F-bodies. You can always gear the S60 accordingly for the horizontal
Yee-haw you're after
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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^ I've always wanted TEA/TFS heads, but it also depends on which cam I'll be running. I was advised AFR 205's for the cam I have now. Just always had other things to do to the car first.

And I wanted 3.90 gears, but I didn't see them as an option for the S60.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by bayer-z28
I've had my PatG cam in since about 2007 and I'm starting to not even notice it anymore. I'm starting to want something a little more violent, but with the same street manners.

Wondering if I bumped the compression up a little with better heads if it will add some snap.... but I also need gears/S60. (later this year)

I'm not really one for an off-the-shelf cam, and I'm not really one for a genaric "MS3" or "TQR V2" answer...

Wondering about grinds in itself. Maybe around 230/232 .610 .620 112. Not EXACTLY that, but something around that duration/lift/ICL.

Ideas?
This is a question I often struggle with so I decided to put my thoughts to this post, it will be long winded and I am sure some will disagree, just keep in the frame of mind that this is just my opinion and I hope it helps others...

Well for the cost of swapping cams and yes, it does cost money your better off with a basic nitrous kit with a plate and some entry level safety stuff.

I do not know what your car makes for power but mine makes.

384/363 HP/TQ through stock heads, stock cubes, and compression. LS6 intake w/ lid, Dynatechs, Catted Y, to a Corsa as well as a M6 trans, 3" STEEL D/S, and a Moser rear (4.10's and Tru-crap diff). The cam is a Vengence VRx4 (228/230 @ 112 LSA and under .600" lift)

It's a very fun street cam, and makes good power low to mid and levels off before 6,500, nothing too crazy. But sometimes I feel the same about going more in the cam. The issue is I do need to do some additional items ontop of the cam and once I look at the cost I have to question the "worth".

Lets just do some quick math.

** When I did my first swap I kept the stock timing chain and oil pump due to milage and not going big on the cam or adding heads...

Cam: EPS ($400) or Pat-G ($399)
Springs: $275 (Patriot Dual Gold w/ Ti Retainer)
Pushrods: $110-$135 (Comp)
Tuning: Free-400$ (may need more for driveability)
Timing Chain: 120-200$
Oil Pump: $150
Fluids/Gaskets/Misc: $50-$75

This assumes you do your own labor.

High end est. $1,635
Low end est. $1,105 (maybe less if you can reuse your pushrods/timing/oil pump)


For maybe 20-40 hp gain (peak, will lose some mid range)
----------------------

Now look at a nitrous kit just for giggles (I used speedinc.com pricing)

Nitrous Outlet 78mm LSx Plate System (15# Bottle) $660.25
Nitrous Outlet Accessory Pack Stg 2- automatic bottle heater/billet bottle bracket, Hex to Wing adapter, luminescent nitrous pressure gauge, fuel pressure safety switch, NHRA fitting, blow down tube
Stage 2 -Add Purge $419.90
Nitrous fill- Depends on your local pricing
Spark plugs (10$)
Nitrous Tune- $100 (most times just tuning down WOT timing)

$1190

Gains can be anywhere between 100-150 to the tire depending how efficent the setup/car is.

--------------------

Not to forget, you could do cyl heads too. Since most stock heads cannot take full advantage of the cam you have right now and any cam you put in there is going to be choked to a degree...

Just slapping in a "take off" LS6 head will gain power, never mind any mild port to it or any other head.

http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm...in%20/%20Heads

Take a look, the price vary greatly and opinions will as well. Ranges from 1,200-2,500 + ARP bolts/studs, head gasket, and re-tune.

Gain's like the cam and really depending on what you have and what C/R you pick. (Some of the cam cost are included such as spring kit) 20-60 hp

-------------

Like said there is tons to think about and for 2 out of the 3 things, remember we are working with a stock block that can take only so much power and when it pops (and it will), most will not rebuild a small bore LS1, they are looking at LS2 blocks and up and the cam/head choice will change. BUT the Nitrous kit is transferable which should say something.

Your going to spend money either way. Just be smart about it and try not to spend money twice or go for something that will make a signifigant difference.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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** Just caught that you have ported Z06 heads with lighter valves, thats a good thing for you but again, this could be for a guy like me, who has stock heads, cam only and its mild.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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If you do a swap make it worth it. a 232/236 or a 236/240 something to make a decent gain. I have driven eight cams in my car. My biggest a 248/254 and it drove great around town. I have a good tuner and 4.11's. Not saying for you to go that big,but don't be afraid to add some cam. With a good tuner it will drive great for you. Pat may charge for his grinds,but in the end they seem to be worth it. Goodluck to ya.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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^ I thought about spraying the car before, but I've always been unable to pull the trigger on it for one reason or another.

And yeah, Pat's grinds are definitely nice. He's one of our cam-guru's here so I'd most likely go with another one of his cams. I would REALLY love to do some heads first though, come to think of it.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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aren't 3.91s available for the S60 ? I'd use the 9" housing w/the 12 bolt
third member. Circle track and modified superstockers use this setup since
the pinion location and ring gear shape rob way less horsepower than the
Ford stuff. Also Nitride coating the gear set usually nets about 5-7 horse
and only costs about $100. A place in Waldo, WI called M & R racing equip.
does this for streetstock dirt roundy round guys.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 06:26 AM
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^ I honestly don't know.. I searched around on here a couple times for some S60 install and build options, and checked Strange's site, but all I found was the 4.10 or 3.73 option.

I found the 9" center sections, but wasn't sure what they could be used for other than a 9". I'm gonna have to do some more research on this.
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