Critique my Head/Cam Build
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 363
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, AL
Critique my Head/Cam Build I'm trying to keep my car "stock appearing", so I'm thinking of getting my 806 heads upgraded to a stage two head. (I'm thinking Patriot Performance)
I plan to have the heads milled for some increased compression...thus i'm not going with any aggressive lift to avoid ptv clearance and I don't want to have to have to check/change my springs often/ever.
It's mostly a weekend cruiser with some 1/8th mile drag racing a few times a year.
I'm thinking somewhere in the 224 or 228 range on the cam.
What do you think? What cam? Any other recommendations?
I plan to have the heads milled for some increased compression...thus i'm not going with any aggressive lift to avoid ptv clearance and I don't want to have to have to check/change my springs often/ever.
It's mostly a weekend cruiser with some 1/8th mile drag racing a few times a year.
I'm thinking somewhere in the 224 or 228 range on the cam.
What do you think? What cam? Any other recommendations?
You have the basis for a great project. I'd send those castings to Advanced
Inductions or Total Engine Airflow for a basic CNC program which will breath
roughly 50-60 cfm more from your stock appearing castings. Either can mill
say .030 off for a bump to 10.7 ish compression w/stock head gaskets and
new TTY bolts. Get the appropriate length hardened pushrods for your cam,
an LS2 timing chain(only $40 uses your stock gears), and a new oil pump
pickup O-ring and balancer bolt. I'm pretty sure Texas Speed has a 224/228
cam thats like .581/.588 lift and will work well with PSI maxlife beehive
springs for excellant valvetrain longevity. Or for 25 bucks more an EPS
222/226 cam has had some great results lately. Good luck to ya
Inductions or Total Engine Airflow for a basic CNC program which will breath
roughly 50-60 cfm more from your stock appearing castings. Either can mill
say .030 off for a bump to 10.7 ish compression w/stock head gaskets and
new TTY bolts. Get the appropriate length hardened pushrods for your cam,
an LS2 timing chain(only $40 uses your stock gears), and a new oil pump
pickup O-ring and balancer bolt. I'm pretty sure Texas Speed has a 224/228
cam thats like .581/.588 lift and will work well with PSI maxlife beehive
springs for excellant valvetrain longevity. Or for 25 bucks more an EPS
222/226 cam has had some great results lately. Good luck to ya
The 222/226 cam can be tuned for a mild idle if thats what you want. Others
have been runnin the 230/234 for more of a midrange power band and a rump-
ity rump sorta idle. Obviously you need complimentary bolt-ons to take full
advantage of the larger stick.
have been runnin the 230/234 for more of a midrange power band and a rump-
ity rump sorta idle. Obviously you need complimentary bolt-ons to take full
advantage of the larger stick.
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There's a reason for that. It just depends on how fast you want to go and how much you have to spend. IMO save a little more money and go with a better CNC program. The cylinder head is where your power is at.
This guy knows his stuff. Best advice. Go to advanced inductions. They are relatively cheap..($11-1200) for a AWESOME cnc porting program with proven results and they invest ALOT in r&d to keep making more power with cheap castings. EPS specs great cams. A XE-R or LSL Lobe. Something in the 224-228/232 range with around .600 lift would be a great cam. Has a nasty midrange punch and pulls hard to 6500 rpms. That's just my .02.