LS6 HPDE/road race engine build
LS6 HPDE/road race engine build I've been trying to find a thread on a road race engine build. No such luck of course.
LS6 block going into E36 M3. The car currently has a tired 99' LS1 in it.
T56 trans, car is ~3k lbs. Used primarly for track days, very little street use.
Goals 450rwhp+, reliable track day car and no oil burning lol. (Current engine goes through 4 quarts in 4 hours on track).
I'm looking for input on a NA build up for this engine.
Here are my thoughts for build up, you guys can steer me in the right directions if you would.
Option A:
2004 LS6 block, already have
Stock crank, already have
Forged rods 6.125, need input
(or LS7 rods?)
Forged pistons, need input
Lightweight parts worth looking into?
LS6 ported heads - need Shop recommendation
(are there more expensive heads that would be worth going with?)
Cam - 240+ duration 0.6+ lift - need input
Short travel lifters
(can you use solid lifters on a hyd. cam?)
Roller rockers - need input
LS6 intake, stock ported TB - already have
Currently have Al flywheel and Spec clutch st3, may upgrade to 5.5inch set up
Oiling
Stock ported shimmed pump
stock F-body pan with Improved racing pan baffle
(also looking into Accusump or possibly dry sump)
Other recommendation for oiling improvements?
Already have engine oil cooler installed
Option B:
Sell LS6 block and
Find LS2/LS3 block for build up
This would be more costly of course.
LS6 block going into E36 M3. The car currently has a tired 99' LS1 in it.
T56 trans, car is ~3k lbs. Used primarly for track days, very little street use.
Goals 450rwhp+, reliable track day car and no oil burning lol. (Current engine goes through 4 quarts in 4 hours on track).
I'm looking for input on a NA build up for this engine.
Here are my thoughts for build up, you guys can steer me in the right directions if you would.
Option A:
2004 LS6 block, already have
Stock crank, already have
Forged rods 6.125, need input
(or LS7 rods?)
Forged pistons, need input
Lightweight parts worth looking into?
LS6 ported heads - need Shop recommendation
(are there more expensive heads that would be worth going with?)
Cam - 240+ duration 0.6+ lift - need input
Short travel lifters
(can you use solid lifters on a hyd. cam?)
Roller rockers - need input
LS6 intake, stock ported TB - already have
Currently have Al flywheel and Spec clutch st3, may upgrade to 5.5inch set up
Oiling
Stock ported shimmed pump
stock F-body pan with Improved racing pan baffle
(also looking into Accusump or possibly dry sump)
Other recommendation for oiling improvements?
Already have engine oil cooler installed
Option B:
Sell LS6 block and
Find LS2/LS3 block for build up
This would be more costly of course.
FWIW I built a solid roller 346 that went 450/450 rw before 6k. All off the shelf parts with 5.3 heads. Cam was intended to be driven on the street. I can go into specifics if you'd like. This motor was built with track days in mind.
Yes I would like to know details please.
The bottom end consist of cleaned up LS6 oil pump, Scat I-beams, Weisco pistons, and coated bearings throughout. Top end is made up from TSP 5.3's (I believe two generations old now), and Ported fast 90/90. Valvetrain uses a 244/248-108 comp solid roller (It's a street solid roller series lobe) lift is in the .595-.605 range that I spec'd. Morel lifters, manton pushrods, and PSI valve springs that fit the stock spring pockets advertised as 220 closed/550 open.
I think that about rounds it out.
I think that about rounds it out.
The bottom end consist of cleaned up LS6 oil pump, Scat I-beams, Weisco pistons, and coated bearings throughout. Top end is made up from TSP 5.3's (I believe two generations old now), and Ported fast 90/90. Valvetrain uses a 244/248-108 comp solid roller (It's a street solid roller series lobe) lift is in the .595-.605 range that I spec'd. Morel lifters, manton pushrods, and PSI valve springs that fit the stock spring pockets advertised as 220 closed/550 open.
I think that about rounds it out.
I think that about rounds it out.
Comp. Ratio? Roller rocker type/brand?
Any chance you have a dyno curve to post?
How was this set up on track?
Katech stage 2 heads
GM hot cam 218/227 .525/.525 112LSA
PSI springs
Trend push rods
C5R timing chain
Katech oil pump
Katech coil mount kit
Katech valve covers
Katech pulley bracket
Lingenfelter CAI
Custom air tube
Mike Norris catch can
FAST 102 intake
FAST billet fuel rails
Bosch 42lb injectors
Nick Williams 102 billet TB
420 rwhp (Mustang dyno) on the dinky GM Hotcam. A bigger cam will get you close to your goal. The Hotcam won the GM Hi Tech cam shootout for the best torque at 3K plus the low lift is a savior on the valve train for multiple track days each year. Not the easiest to tune with 112LSA but is plenty streetable. Plenty of other great cams out there as well. Run an oil cooler. Even a small Mocal 13 row cooler will keep temps below 260. My heads and cam motor was built by Katech and has been pretty much trouble free for two seasons of HPDE. In the future forged is the icing on the cake. Maybe a stroker 383. On your 3000lb Bimmer you would be a tough act to follow.
GM hot cam 218/227 .525/.525 112LSA
PSI springs
Trend push rods
C5R timing chain
Katech oil pump
Katech coil mount kit
Katech valve covers
Katech pulley bracket
Lingenfelter CAI
Custom air tube
Mike Norris catch can
FAST 102 intake
FAST billet fuel rails
Bosch 42lb injectors
Nick Williams 102 billet TB
420 rwhp (Mustang dyno) on the dinky GM Hotcam. A bigger cam will get you close to your goal. The Hotcam won the GM Hi Tech cam shootout for the best torque at 3K plus the low lift is a savior on the valve train for multiple track days each year. Not the easiest to tune with 112LSA but is plenty streetable. Plenty of other great cams out there as well. Run an oil cooler. Even a small Mocal 13 row cooler will keep temps below 260. My heads and cam motor was built by Katech and has been pretty much trouble free for two seasons of HPDE. In the future forged is the icing on the cake. Maybe a stroker 383. On your 3000lb Bimmer you would be a tough act to follow.
Last edited by Big Bu Bu; Aug 15, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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the only thing i could add is that i was strongly advised to go dry sump in a proper track car ls build, to save any issues. mine is a fairly low spec cam and max rpm of 6400 with uprated pushrods/springs/retainers etc, and is redlined all the time. oil pressure is very good at all times with a 2 stage ARE dry sump conversion. the block is a forged ls6 with wiseco pistons and carrillo rods.
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If you are looking for road race, then the timing chain setup requires particular attention. Go with either an ATI or stock damper, don't go under drive and stay away from any but the two aforementioned brands.
Get a good timing chain setup and get a timing chain damper. Katech had a few left on the shelf for the LS6 block.
If you do a search, you will find there are harmonics in the mid/upper RPM range that road racing will tickle and you could break the timing chain and lose the motor. So these items are key to a motor that will survive in this type of service.
Get a good timing chain setup and get a timing chain damper. Katech had a few left on the shelf for the LS6 block.
If you do a search, you will find there are harmonics in the mid/upper RPM range that road racing will tickle and you could break the timing chain and lose the motor. So these items are key to a motor that will survive in this type of service.
Stay with the ls1 platform the oiling is better.
Improved racing baffle in the pan, +1 quart and a accusump should be fine unless you are on a Toyo RA1 or slicks with a ton of grip.
Stock ls6 cam from an 02-04 with the ls6 heads cnc ported from AI, a FAST 90/90 and associated bolt ons should put you very close to there you want to be on power with a trouble free setup.
Stay away from a solid roller, you don't need it.
Improved racing baffle in the pan, +1 quart and a accusump should be fine unless you are on a Toyo RA1 or slicks with a ton of grip.
Stock ls6 cam from an 02-04 with the ls6 heads cnc ported from AI, a FAST 90/90 and associated bolt ons should put you very close to there you want to be on power with a trouble free setup.
Stay away from a solid roller, you don't need it.
