Design a custom cam for me thread
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I don't think he was running but about 65/6600 rpms. It was a stock bottom end motor. I had him hit it at 3, 4, and 5k. At 3 and 4 it couldn't get out of its own way. On the 5k hit it felt pretty good.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 177
From: ELSA, South TEXAS (956) 802-7700
no expert but considering 3.90s, 3000 stall, et and mph, i think mph is a lil low leading me to believe your baby cam is running out of breath at the top end. before you posted pat g's recommendation, because of the above and you wanting a 110, i was gonna say eps 226-230 on a 110. 226-230 moves up your power band a little to increase mph but still maintains torque levels. the added lift will increase power in the mid range and above, unlike the f13 did at about 5200 when compared to the tr224. the eps with added lift over the f13 will increase the power also. no expert but just what seems logical to me.
i value anybody's opinion but pat g and eps are a hot commidity and they wouldnt be if folks on here wouldnt have so much success with his recommendations and eps lobes. i personally have a tr224 in an lq4 with 243s, 10.2 cr and 3400 stall. so far it meets my needs which are different but still researching cams for a bigger cam to increase performance. i hope to dyno it first to see where i am and go from there but if a good deal comes up, i may be tempted to jump on it. good luck to all on your projects and thanx for every comment that i learn from.
the 228-232 with 588-595 on a 110 is not far off and a good price but i would need to see pics first besides hearing it.
i value anybody's opinion but pat g and eps are a hot commidity and they wouldnt be if folks on here wouldnt have so much success with his recommendations and eps lobes. i personally have a tr224 in an lq4 with 243s, 10.2 cr and 3400 stall. so far it meets my needs which are different but still researching cams for a bigger cam to increase performance. i hope to dyno it first to see where i am and go from there but if a good deal comes up, i may be tempted to jump on it. good luck to all on your projects and thanx for every comment that i learn from.
the 228-232 with 588-595 on a 110 is not far off and a good price but i would need to see pics first besides hearing it.
Last edited by low2001gmc; Sep 13, 2011 at 01:29 AM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
That usually means it needs more gears and not that the cam is bad.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Perhaps. It had all the normal stuff, Pacesetters, LM1, good tune, LS6 intake, dual springs, pushrods, oil pump, TC,.....I even watched the guy install the cam. At one point, the car was even trailered to FMS for the tune. Then got retuned by the same person that has tuned my car for years locally....Don't really know, seems all the bases were covered.
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the only clip i have is of me racing in 1/8 mile so not much idle going on, but my ride is under the knife out in the driveway.....i'm changing from stock length pushrods to 7.425's, throwing in a fresh set of valve seals, and removing the sweet thunders from the true duals to add a set of 3.5" classic chambered powersticks.....i'll start a thread comparing the thunders vs powersticks soon as i get it all buttoned up.....Pred hit the nail on the head with the cam specs, it's exactly what i wanted.....now if i could just ditch the stock 806's for a set of AFR 205's 
8.32 with a .230's reaction time and shitty 1.9 60ft.....the first run was 8.42 but i was trying to learn the tree.....i still have the stock 3.42's and it seems like i don't shift out of first till almost half track 
.....i'm afraid of breaking my rearend with the 275 mickey's, so i have to take it easy on launches for now.......but mph was 88 or 89 i think....i know my car isn't fast to some folks, but i'm really proud of it
my little brother edited the video, i'm not sure what "wrh" means
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLN9oA9D5q8
.....i'm afraid of breaking my rearend with the 275 mickey's, so i have to take it easy on launches for now.......but mph was 88 or 89 i think....i know my car isn't fast to some folks, but i'm really proud of itmy little brother edited the video, i'm not sure what "wrh" means
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLN9oA9D5q8
Last edited by jc98ss; Sep 15, 2011 at 01:18 AM.
I asked a few other pros what they recommended and here is what they said:
LUNATI
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 277/283
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 227/233
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .584"/.584"
LSA/ICL: 113/109
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2200-6800
He also went on to say:
"I'd get the 60514 just like it is with the 113LS. It should basically do everything you want, less noise, more power, meaner idle. If you wanted to get one done on a little smaller lobe separation number it's not a problem but I would say don't go below 110 at the smallest."
FUTRAL
228/234 112 LSA .595"/.612"
He also went on to say:
"I feel like it will work with your current converter BUT a 3200-3400 will work much better if you want to try that later."
TEXAS SPEED (Trevor)
228/238, .588”/.605”, 110 LSA, 105 ICL
He said:
"You’ll see some of the larger grinds for carbureted setups have tight LSA’s with quite a bit of advance ground in. The idea is to provide you with the additional duration for more power but also keep your power band in a usable range where you don’t sacrifice all of your low-end and a lot of your mid-range for a peak number. The carbureted setups are a little bit different with respect to what they benefit from vs. a fuel injected setup with respect to how the cam is ground. Beyond that, again, we want to keep as much of your power as possible in the low-end. Average power is very important given the heavier race weight of your Skylark, and we also want to keep the power in the band that will still work very well with your existing 3000 stall speed torque converter. You’re not going to see a HUGE jump in peak power (i.e. 30+ HP), but you should see a nice jump in your average power. This is what is going to get you a quicker ET. Realistically, we’re talking another .15 or so in the 1/4-mile over what your current setup runs, but it will be a cam that will net that gain without requiring any additional changes to your setup."
All of the top suggestions so far have an intake duration between 226 to 228. The exhaust Durations have ranged from 230 to 238 and the LSA has ranged from 110 to 113.
Trevors suggestion departed from the others most significantly and seem to be based on more personal experience with carburetors than the others. I have decades of experience with old school motors but have deferred to people with LS experience in this cam selection process. But, the more I look around, the more I think carbureted LS engines might benefit from my old school knowledge than I originally had thought.
LUNATI
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 277/283
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 227/233
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .584"/.584"
LSA/ICL: 113/109
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2200-6800
He also went on to say:
"I'd get the 60514 just like it is with the 113LS. It should basically do everything you want, less noise, more power, meaner idle. If you wanted to get one done on a little smaller lobe separation number it's not a problem but I would say don't go below 110 at the smallest."
FUTRAL
228/234 112 LSA .595"/.612"
He also went on to say:
"I feel like it will work with your current converter BUT a 3200-3400 will work much better if you want to try that later."
TEXAS SPEED (Trevor)
228/238, .588”/.605”, 110 LSA, 105 ICL
He said:
"You’ll see some of the larger grinds for carbureted setups have tight LSA’s with quite a bit of advance ground in. The idea is to provide you with the additional duration for more power but also keep your power band in a usable range where you don’t sacrifice all of your low-end and a lot of your mid-range for a peak number. The carbureted setups are a little bit different with respect to what they benefit from vs. a fuel injected setup with respect to how the cam is ground. Beyond that, again, we want to keep as much of your power as possible in the low-end. Average power is very important given the heavier race weight of your Skylark, and we also want to keep the power in the band that will still work very well with your existing 3000 stall speed torque converter. You’re not going to see a HUGE jump in peak power (i.e. 30+ HP), but you should see a nice jump in your average power. This is what is going to get you a quicker ET. Realistically, we’re talking another .15 or so in the 1/4-mile over what your current setup runs, but it will be a cam that will net that gain without requiring any additional changes to your setup."
All of the top suggestions so far have an intake duration between 226 to 228. The exhaust Durations have ranged from 230 to 238 and the LSA has ranged from 110 to 113.
Trevors suggestion departed from the others most significantly and seem to be based on more personal experience with carburetors than the others. I have decades of experience with old school motors but have deferred to people with LS experience in this cam selection process. But, the more I look around, the more I think carbureted LS engines might benefit from my old school knowledge than I originally had thought.
The Pros VS LS1 Tech members I could not go to the track tonight because of some damaged threads on my back up carburetor. So, in my boredom, I whipped up this comparison between thread participants cam suggestions and the industry pros. Check out how close the averages are. Go LS1Tech team!
nice chart. I am going to do a spacer test first on the dual plane. Then I will do the single plane intake. After I see how the single plane compares, I will consider the cams swap as the intake choice will affect the cam I choose. I am thinking that the dual plane intake will work better with a wider lobe separation than the single plane intake and may prefer a little more advance too.
Well, the car was faster with the Victor Jr.. So I made a few small changes to the cam that we designed together and I ordered it from EPS today.
Here is what I ordered:
226/234 .598/.612 with 110 LSA on a 109 ICL. It is on EPS and LXL lobes. In essence, it is kind of an "ASA 2011" cam. I look forward to trying it out.
Here is what I ordered:
226/234 .598/.612 with 110 LSA on a 109 ICL. It is on EPS and LXL lobes. In essence, it is kind of an "ASA 2011" cam. I look forward to trying it out.
Looking forward to hearing your impression of the new cam. Seems like you went with a little more overlap than you were originally thinking. With the LXL exhaust lobes do you think (theoretically) that you can use a little more duration since the valves are closing at a slower rate?
Looking forward to hearing your impression of the new cam. Seems like you went with a little more overlap than you were originally thinking. With the LXL exhaust lobes do you think (theoretically) that you can use a little more duration since the valves are closing at a slower rate?
