Will this work to forge my motor?
Will this work to forge my motor? I have a D1SC Procharger that im wanting to install, but contemplating going ahead and going forged. The way i want to do it is like this...
Please suggest brands. 6-650 rwhp is all i ever wanna make, and its a weekend driven street car, probably never see the track. keep this in mind. Budget is also a factor!
Buy H-Beam rods (brand/Size/bolts?)
Buy forged pistons (Brand-Size?)
Buy cam, rod and main bearings (Brand?)(size?)
Keep my stock crank and have it "cleaned up" or whatever needs to be done
Use my block
Use stock heads (bolts or Studs for 13-15psi?)
Probably stick with my cam, maybe buy a blower cam if i HAVE to.
I called the my local machine shop and they said they would go through my block/magnaflux, and install my rotating assembly for $7-800.
Thanks guys!
Or should i run it until something lets go then rebuild it?
On stock bottom, probably run 7-8psi
On forged bottom probably 13-15psi
Please suggest brands. 6-650 rwhp is all i ever wanna make, and its a weekend driven street car, probably never see the track. keep this in mind. Budget is also a factor!
Buy H-Beam rods (brand/Size/bolts?)
Buy forged pistons (Brand-Size?)
Buy cam, rod and main bearings (Brand?)(size?)
Keep my stock crank and have it "cleaned up" or whatever needs to be done
Use my block
Use stock heads (bolts or Studs for 13-15psi?)
Probably stick with my cam, maybe buy a blower cam if i HAVE to.
I called the my local machine shop and they said they would go through my block/magnaflux, and install my rotating assembly for $7-800.
Thanks guys!
Or should i run it until something lets go then rebuild it?
On stock bottom, probably run 7-8psi
On forged bottom probably 13-15psi
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: STL, MO
I think you're on the right track. Diamond pistons and Callies rods are a popular combo and not costly. Stock crank will work great. I'd put some cam in it though, with a bit more exhaust duration and lift. Maybe 220's intake and 230's exh with 580 - 620 lift, something along those lines on a 112 or 114. Spend the money to get your heads ported too, or upgrade heads. If you keep the lift within reason, you can run Comp 918 valve springs which are economical. Stock rockers and lifters have worked fine for me to 6500 rpm or so. Going on 3 years now at 600+.
Well I have a cam already. Dual valve springs, new pushrods, seats, tit. Retainers, oil pump ect. Just didn't know what size pistons/rods to buy and if I could reuse my crank.
Diamond pistons, callies rods. if any money left over have the heads mildly gone over, valve job bowl blending etc. Major portings just not going to help that much with boost. run 13psi and let her eat
what sizes should i go with? they offer so many different sizes....do i need to bore the cylinders and got a hair bigger? or would just a hone and stock size pistons work? what length rods?
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12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: STL, MO
Mine is stock bore with Diamond forged. It was only at 20K miles and still had almost all the cross-hatch left, so we didn't even hone it. On porting, all I can say is that the real goal is to move more air. (more air=more fuel=more power) It's not to see how much boost you can make. After all, boost is a measure of resistance, right?
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6.125" Rod, 3.905" bore piston combo. Many vendors have off the shelf examples that have worked for them before. Look into the Hellfire ring pack, gapped for boost. Coated main and rod bearings are good insurance. ARP head studs and main studs. If you are sticking with the stock heads, I would get a valve job and replace the valve springs with the duals you have. Under boost, you want to have a strong spring to keep your valve train under control. A blower cam will allow you to see your goals without having to run as much boost, while giving you a nice, usable power band. Porting your heads will improve your VE, allowing you to see your goal, with less boost, but I think the money is better spent elsewhere, like a nice set of long tubes and free flowing exhaust. You also need to upgrade your clutch considerably. And you MUST upgrade your fuel system, injectors, pumps, rails, etc. The fuel is an area you really shouldn't skimp on, especially in a boosted build. I would also look into the cost of installing an ATI balancer and pinning it to your crank as well.
Honestly, if I were you, I would look into building up a LQ9 long block. You get a stronger block (albeit heavier), better heads, and it will allow you to build up your motor as money allows. In the mean time, I would be doing what I could to save for my fuel system and clutch. You will never see your gains without upgrades in those key areas!
A 4" bore will also help you move more air, and the cylinder heads have a huge improvement in the exhaust port, as well as a bigger combustion chamber! You will be able to move WAY more air, and the massive increases in power and torque will MORE than make up the added 150+ pounds, between your block and blower kit.
Cheap, Fast, Reliable - Pick 2.
A 4" bore will also help you move more air, and the cylinder heads have a huge improvement in the exhaust port, as well as a bigger combustion chamber! You will be able to move WAY more air, and the massive increases in power and torque will MORE than make up the added 150+ pounds, between your block and blower kit.
Cheap, Fast, Reliable - Pick 2.
i also had a suggestion to go buy a 6.0 from a junk yard. A nice one of course. And transfer all of my **** over to it from my LS1 and throw my blower on it and go. I was told that their stock bottoms can handle alot of boost. What's your guys' opinion on that? Again if my car made 600rwhp that's plenty. I have a 3.85 pulley ready to go also. And I was gonna buy 60-80# injectors, stock lines/rails, and probably a 340lph intake pump with an online helper, or just with a lonnies in tank.
The crank in an LQ9 is the same as any other Gen III/IV crankshaft. You will want to make sure that you were picking up an LQ9 though, you want the 317 casting heads. Those are the improved "LS6 style" heads with the D shaped exhaust port. The 60# injectors are a good bet, and so is the Lonnies kit. A lot of Grand National guys have been running that kit for years, with good success. I think you will be ok through the factory rails and lines as well.
As far as the LQx factory internals, no I don't agree with them holding any more boost than the LS1 factory internals. Where you will run into a problem is with the HyperE pistons and PM rods. I have heard of rods letting go on stock internal, bolt on cars, simply because the rod bolts gave up the ghost. You will need to fortify the shortblock, just like the LS1 if you are looking to run any significant boost. I think you would be ok with either at 5-6 PSI but I wouldn't push it beyond that if you weren't constantly able to monitor its tune.
And thats an entire different subject, altogether... you will need a few safety items, a WB02, Fuel Pressure gauge, boost gauge, and I would even recommend a methanol injection kit as well. Boost is really expensive man.. I would do some serious research before jumping into anything beyond the bolt on Procharger kits and boost levels.
And thats an entire different subject, altogether... you will need a few safety items, a WB02, Fuel Pressure gauge, boost gauge, and I would even recommend a methanol injection kit as well. Boost is really expensive man.. I would do some serious research before jumping into anything beyond the bolt on Procharger kits and boost levels.
I already planned on buying those 3 gauges and was gonna add meth later depending on how much boost I run. There is a thread somewhere showing who all has the 6.0 on a stock bottom running boost and most guys were Runnin 11-15psi on em with no problems. So I want to look into a little more.