excellent tool. 
Made A Crank Stop For Assembling Short Blocks
Made A Crank Stop For Assembling Short Blocks I figured I would share this with everyone on the forum since I couldn't find any information on this. As those who have built motors know, the crank can be a pain to hold in place while torquing down things such as rod bolts and flywheels/flexplates. This is especially important if you use plastigage for checking bearing clearance.
Since I have been working alone on my engine and didn't have a second hand to help, I figured I would make a billet crank lock. What I cam up with something that bolted to the face of the block and had four incremented keyways allowing for easy clocking of the crank for rod installation and torquing. I have enough material left to make a couple more if anyone is interested in one. If I make more I will most likely add four more keyways at 45 degree increments.
I figured this was a better option than a flywheel lock since they are about $85 last I checked and sometimes it is near impossible to put the flywheel on while the block is on the engine stand. While this doesn't help with installing the crank pulley, it sure helps while assembling the short block and in my case installing the flexplate.
Let me know what you guys think. Motor is going to be a 383 with 12.5:1 compression.
Since I have been working alone on my engine and didn't have a second hand to help, I figured I would make a billet crank lock. What I cam up with something that bolted to the face of the block and had four incremented keyways allowing for easy clocking of the crank for rod installation and torquing. I have enough material left to make a couple more if anyone is interested in one. If I make more I will most likely add four more keyways at 45 degree increments.
I figured this was a better option than a flywheel lock since they are about $85 last I checked and sometimes it is near impossible to put the flywheel on while the block is on the engine stand. While this doesn't help with installing the crank pulley, it sure helps while assembling the short block and in my case installing the flexplate.
Let me know what you guys think. Motor is going to be a 383 with 12.5:1 compression.
Here is a picture of the crank stop with the front two rods installed and torqued for checking bearing clearance. Rod clearance was just under .0025". Now it is onto cleaning everything really well once again and starting the final assembly of the block! I am going to finish making some more stops this week with the extra material I had sitting around. I will most likely put them up for sale for $35 shipped in the lower 48.
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I'll take one as well. It's much better than the makeshift piece I've been using that bolts to the crank flange... What a PITA to constantly bolt and unbolt it on an engine stand. Your idea is genius. If possible, please PM me with info.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
That's similar to what I've been using and it F'ing BLOWS. That tool makes me hate my life. This one will be much better.
