After months and months of speculating over which heads and cam set-up I should go with, I finally decided on going with TFS/TEA 215's along with Thunders Raptr cam. My goals are to hit 450RWHP. I'm sure this can be easily hit with this set-up, but I don't want to set my expectations to high. The car has dynoed 321RWHP and 329RWTQ with just a Lid and a hooker catback.

The car:
An 02 SS M6 with 80,000 miles

Parts Sitting in the Garage:
QTP 1 3/4 longtubes, TSP true Duals, FAST 102/102 set-up.

Installed:
McLeod RXT with Steel flywheel, + hydraulics.

Ordered:
RAPTR Cam, LS7 lifters, GM MLS gaskets, Other MISC. Gaskets, Melling HV oil pump, Comp Cams Double Roller, Racetronix fuel system, Comp Trunion upgrade kit, Shims, Pushrods, 37# Injectors, ARP rod Bolts, and FAST's OEM style fuel rail kit.

Need to order:
TEA/TFS 215's milled to 59cc's

I will have the heads ordered in 2 weeks and I should have everything ready to throw on.
I am going to take my time on the install and should start it early next month and have it easily done within a week. I will post up pics when I start getting stuff in. I'm stoked to finally have this thing come together.

Updated 9/15 (Post #12)with pics from parts that I have received.
Updated 9/20 (Post #20)with pics and brief summary of fuel pump install
Updated 10/22 (Post #24 & #25)with pics and first part of disassembly, Intake manifold, heads, and exhaust removed
Updated 10/23 (Post #26) with pics and summary of the day
Updated 10/27 (Post #27) with a summary of the last couple of days
Updated 10/28 (Post #30) Vid of first start

 

450rw should be easily attainable

what gears are you running?

im getting ready to install my tfs 215s as well

-brandon

 

I am running the stock 10bolt with 3.42's. It is going to suck for a little bit until I can get a MWC set-up. That will have 4.10's in it.
I might even throw some 4.10's in my stocker as the current ring and pinon are shot, along with a bad pinon seal
I will obviously have to baby it, out of the hole.

What cam are you going with?

 

I'm just curious, and don't know if it's been documented before, but how much do you think milling the heads from 64 to 59 cc's will affect flow?

 

I haven't seen any info about milling heads affecting flow. I could see if you mill a lot off of the heads and the ports don't match between the heads and the mani. I'm sure that would be a very good question to ask Tony Mamo.

 

ugh, your gonna hate babying the car due the rear...i would stay w/ stock gears

im staying w/ my current cam(cam only) which is a 245/250 on a 110lsa

-brandon

 

Ya, tell me about it. 90% of my driving is on the freeway, so everything should be good. I got a quote of $638 for parts and labor for the rear gears to be installed. It would just be temporary until I can get into a MWC rear.

 

If you are going to run OEM rockers have TEA install their powdered metal valve guides that will hold up better than the TFS standard issue bronze valve guides.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but dosen't the shim kit take care or this, as it keeps the same geometry?

 

Brian Tooley, of TEA, does not recommend shimming the stock rockers. You might want to talk to TEA to see if their thinking has changed.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/14109610-post32.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/13879292-post9.html

 

^ I refer to that thread every once in a while for information. There's some good stuff in it.

 

I am still waiting on some parts, but this is what I received today.

All the gaskets, melling oil pump, LS7 lifters, FAST 102/102 with LS2 rails,Intake Port Seals, Head bolts, ARP connecting Rod Bolts, Pushrods, Racetronix Fuel system, Balancer Bolt, and Shim Kit.

 

I plan on installing the fuel system on tuesday or wednesday next week. I will update with some pics. The install looks pretty straight forward. Any tips would be appreciated. Since the interior of my car is gutted, I am going with the trap door method.

 

i have AFR225's milled to 59cc, i had to flycut with this cam, and run a big bore head gasket @ .040, compression is about 11.5ish

 

Don't AFR's have a 15 degree valve angle? Since the TFS's have a 13.5 there is some extra PTV clearance. I will measure anyway, but thanks for the heads up.
The gaskets im using are GM MLS 6.0 so they should be around .052 compressed thickness.

 

You are gonna love theis set-up! Its almost the exact same set-up I have. I made over 480+hp through a 12 bolt m6 on a mustang dyno. You should easily pass your goals!

 

I was following your thread about your build. Your set-up convinced me to make a carbon copy of yours.

 

My injectors came in yesterday and to my surprise they are not the LS1 style skinnies(Needed for the FAST 102)
Hopefully they won't ding me for a 20% re-stocking fee since I made the order over the phone with Shane.
I get a fat discount through fedex so the turn around time for the return shouldn't take to long.

 

Awesome! If you have any questions let me know.

 

I got done installing the Racetronix fuel pump and harness. The install was very easy and was completed in a little under 4 hours with taking my time.

I decided to go with the trap door method as I didn't feel like dropping the rear Diff. At first, I using my dremel with a cut-off wheel, but the wheels were getting eatin up real fast. I then used my air compressor with a larger cut off wheel. With using this, I had to be careful with not going to deep after the cut was made, since the wiring harness is right below(the wires sit up the highest).


The bucket


A pic of the bucket removed, and inspection of the tank. It looked very clean and the filter sock on the bottom of the bucket had minimal contamination.


Everything all put back together with the new Racetronix pump. The instructions with this kit are really easy. if you can follow LEGO directions then you can do this.


The bucket put back in along with the top part of the Racetronix harness hooked up. I was able to feed the wires up from the bottom. At first I thought this was going to be difficult but it wasn't. With the pic as a reference the wires were fed up at the 1 o clock position with in relation to the bucket. You can see the wires.


After mounting the harness and ground wire, it was time to run the positive feed up to the alternator. Here, I am routing the wire right next to the fuel lines.


The install very straight forward. I had to call Thunder to make sure the wire I was hooking up on the alternator, was on the positive side. Taking the bolt off was a bitch at first, until I figured I needed to use a long extension with a swivel joint on a 3/8's drive.
After connecting the battery she started right up. All I have to do is buy a piece of metal and some screws to cover that hole and we are good to go.