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Why no gains after head install?

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Old 09-13-2011, 10:50 PM
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Both the trans AND converter (slipping coupler) are now being stressed
more assuming the heads are making more power and the reduced gear
(torque multiplier) are lugging it from revving through the power band as easily
Old 09-13-2011, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Use this: you find 0 lash then count the turns to get to 22 ft/pounds. From Shane at Thunder Racing
funny I just did that and came up with 1.25-1.35 turns to 22 ft lbs on 4 valves. According to that I am right on the bottom edge of preload and maybe my PRs are to short. So would going to a 7.35 or even a 7.375 be better?
Old 09-13-2011, 11:01 PM
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I think you should do exactly what that posts says. I have followed it several times and it has worked perfect. Remember, results should be repeatable from lobe to lobe.
Old 09-13-2011, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
I am not questioning whether that is true, I am asking why it is true. The only answer offered up so far consists sole of the words "torque converter." So why does a torque converter render rear gear selection irrelevant?
Gear selection does not become irrelevant in auto's.

A TC with a 3600rpm stall allows the engine to instantly jump to 3600rpm under WOT.meaning that it becomes immediately in its ideal powerband. So no matter what gearing the rearrnd has, the engine will always perform at an optimal level. Having more gearing allows the car to move easier but does not effect the motor's perforating all.

Now in a M6... the engine must progress through the rpm range to get into its ideal powerband. Having more gearing allows the engine to get to its ideal powerband quicker. Which is why an M6 with a big cam needs gears. A big cam with stock gears takes a LONG time to get into its optimum rpm range. In an manual car the gearing not only effect the ease of movment but also has a great impact on the engine's ability to perform.
Old 09-13-2011, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
It will pull very, very little.....what you are saying makes sense on paper but just doesn't actually apply in real life.
You are incorrect sir.
Old 09-13-2011, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HTX
You are incorrect sir.
I'm not stating this is correct in every auto drivetrain. But, with these basic setups, LS1/4l60e and a 2.73/3.23/3.73 rear being the most popular, these gear choices have little effect on ACTUAL e.t.'s and mph. Wanna prove me wrong? Do it. So far you have proven nothing.
Old 09-13-2011, 11:53 PM
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What are the down sides of running to little preload on the lifters?
Old 09-13-2011, 11:56 PM
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From my understanding higher preload is for stock, quiet, soft lobed cams. In more high performance engines I think they do actually run less preload. But that may not apply here. Symptoms of too little preload could be worn cam lobes/lifter rollers (from the lifter jumping the lobe like a ramp) and noisy valvetrains to start.

Why don't you pull all of the pushrods and check them for straightness?

Last edited by 01ssreda4; 09-14-2011 at 12:31 AM.
Old 09-14-2011, 12:01 AM
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Personally i would run a compression test before you pull the valvetrain. now would be the time to do it.
Old 09-14-2011, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
I'm not stating this is correct in every auto drivetrain. But, with these basic setups, LS1/4l60e and a 2.73/3.23/3.73 rear being the most popular, these gear choices have little effect on ACTUAL e.t.'s and mph. Wanna prove me wrong? Do it. So far you have proven nothing.
The lower the stall speed the greater the effect of the gears.
Old 09-14-2011, 12:32 AM
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Show me a thread/car/video/time slip proving what you say.
Old 09-14-2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
I'm not stating this is correct in every auto drivetrain. But, with these basic setups, LS1/4l60e and a 2.73/3.23/3.73 rear being the most popular, these gear choices have little effect on ACTUAL e.t.'s and mph. Wanna prove me wrong? Do it. So far you have proven nothing.
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Show me a thread/car/video/time slip proving what you say.
Don't have the time. If you have any understanding of how an engine, automatic Tranmission, and rear ends operate then you would know that your statements don't make any sense.
Old 09-14-2011, 12:38 AM
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What is your a/f at wot, peak tq timing peak hp timing? Any knock? How much did you play with timing and fuel. Did you dial in your maf properly to assure what your commanding at wot is what you are actually getting?
Old 09-14-2011, 01:02 AM
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Stop ruining this guys thread. Start another one for a debate on gears.
Old 09-14-2011, 01:05 AM
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Stop ruining this guys thread. Start another one for a debate on gears.
Lol. You need a hug bro?
Old 09-14-2011, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by HTX
Lol. You need a hug bro?
LOL no.
Old 09-14-2011, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by HTX
Gear selection does not become irrelevant in auto's.

A TC with a 3600rpm stall allows the engine to instantly jump to 3600rpm under WOT.meaning that it becomes immediately in its ideal powerband. So no matter what gearing the rearrnd has, the engine will always perform at an optimal level. Having more gearing allows the car to move easier but does not effect the motor's perforating all.

Now in a M6... the engine must progress through the rpm range to get into its ideal powerband. Having more gearing allows the engine to get to its ideal powerband quicker. Which is why an M6 with a big cam needs gears. A big cam with stock gears takes a LONG time to get into its optimum rpm range. In an manual car the gearing not only effect the ease of movment but also has a great impact on the engine's ability to perform.
In my M6 (T-56 close ratio), the "engine must progress through the rpm range to get into its ideal powerband" only once - in low gear. Even then, the period of progression can be very short due to clutch and/or tire slippage. After running low gear is to redline (6.5k rpm) the shift to 2nd gear, and every shift thereafter, I arrive in the next gear at 4.5k rpm. Since the torque peak on my motor occurs at 4.8k and peak horesepower occurs at the 6.5k redline the motor is never out of its power band.

The explanations as to why rear gears don't matter in automatics that I have read so far focus on: (a) what the stall does for you on the starting line; and (b) the slippage that occurs throughout the run. Since the ability to spool up the motor on the starting line is common to both automatics (using the stall feature) and M6s (using clutch and/or tire slippage) I don't see anything that would render the rear gear selection irrelevant. Regarding the slippage thing, it seems to me that "all else equal" an automatic would slip more against a taller rear gear (e.g. 3.23) and conversely slip less against a lower rear gear (e.g. 3.73).

So, I am thinking there must be some other factor particular to automatics that mitigates the effect of rear gear ratios.
Old 09-14-2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
In my M6 (T-56 close ratio), the "engine must progress through the rpm range to get into its ideal powerband" only once - in low gear. Even then, the period of progression can be very short due to clutch and/or tire slippage. After running low gear is to redline (6.5k rpm) the shift to 2nd gear, and every shift thereafter, I arrive in the next gear at 4.5k rpm. Since the torque peak on my motor occurs at 4.8k and peak horesepower occurs at the 6.5k redline the motor is never out of its power b
With 3.23's it takes an m6 about 2seconds to get to your 4500rpm range. The same gearing in an auto with 3600stall can do it in less than one second. One second is a big difference in a quarter mile.
Old 09-14-2011, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
LOL no.
With a better understanding of how his gear ratio has affected his car he will better understand why his car has performed lower than he anticipated.


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