Would retarding this cam benefit me? Cam card and dyno included
09-17-2011, 06:44 AM
#23
Launching!
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now that I think about it,the severe drop off in power after peak is probably normal with the reverse split cam your running.a std.split cam wouldn't drop off as much.
I agree it should still peak a little higher,that's why I suggested you check your ICL.I wouldn't change any parts,just dial in what you have.
shifting a little closer to peak power should help with your quarter mile times as well.I think you have a good combo,just need to dial it in..
I agree it should still peak a little higher,that's why I suggested you check your ICL.I wouldn't change any parts,just dial in what you have.
shifting a little closer to peak power should help with your quarter mile times as well.I think you have a good combo,just need to dial it in..
09-19-2011, 09:14 AM
#24
Checked my pushrods just to be sure and they seem fine. Takes just under 1 1/2 turns past zero lash to get to 22ft/lbs.
I was pleased to see how clean the engine is on the top end. Other than a light sheen of oil coating the heads look new inside.
Guess I'll just forget about it until I have it apart to put the ported 799s on. I'll get a timing set and degree it. Then I'll weigh in on whether I want to retard it 2* or so (maybe 4* if degreeing it shows more advance than the cam card).
I was pleased to see how clean the engine is on the top end. Other than a light sheen of oil coating the heads look new inside.
Guess I'll just forget about it until I have it apart to put the ported 799s on. I'll get a timing set and degree it. Then I'll weigh in on whether I want to retard it 2* or so (maybe 4* if degreeing it shows more advance than the cam card).
09-19-2011, 01:24 PM
#25
Personally, I'd leave it alone. It is likely a combination of reverse split & installed ICL, as noted. If it were mine & power through 6500 RPM was the goal, would upgrade cam (lift & then @ least exhaust duration) when swapping the ported 799's & then just degree the set-up to confirm ICL. Not clear on which PAC springs you ended up w/ ,but, would confirm they are correct w/ new cam. Whatever is decided, Good-luck.
09-19-2011, 03:00 PM
#26
I have some basically new Patriot Gold duals with titanium retainers I can use.
I am also considering speccing a new cam for the heads/intake/exhaust combo I currently have. Reverse split isn't exactly what I need now. It will depend on funds.
I could always toss this cam in my 5.3 silverado one day...with the low end grunt and early peak it would be a good truck cam I think, especially with stock heads/intake but nice true duals going on soon.
I am also considering speccing a new cam for the heads/intake/exhaust combo I currently have. Reverse split isn't exactly what I need now. It will depend on funds.
I could always toss this cam in my 5.3 silverado one day...with the low end grunt and early peak it would be a good truck cam I think, especially with stock heads/intake but nice true duals going on soon.
09-19-2011, 03:21 PM
#27
Personally I think the cam is all wrong also....
As others have touched on the reverse split, the installed position, and IMO the tight LSA is all hurting you. Smaller cams work better on wider LSA's....especially with a long runner type manifold and EFI. Truthfully I spec wide LSA's on practically every build for the reasons just mentioned as almost everything Im dealing with has a FAST or a factory intake with a 10" or longer plastic intake runner. The wider LSA's net you a later intake closing point which typically makes more peak power and carries alot better past peak.
Ditch the cam when you do the heads and make sure the springs are set up properly for the next grind. It does seem like your getting some valve control issues in the higher RPM....I feel the curve should/could be smoother. Try to set the springs .050 - .060 till coilbind....you may be able to increase some seat pressure and accomplish that preferred distance (less room for the coils of the springs to dance and resonate at higher RPM).
Good luck....but the so-so heads and the un-optimized cam is probably the bulk of your issues here. Part of me is curious who or how that cam was selected, but at the end of the day I guess it really doesn't matter.
Hope this helps...
-Tony
As others have touched on the reverse split, the installed position, and IMO the tight LSA is all hurting you. Smaller cams work better on wider LSA's....especially with a long runner type manifold and EFI. Truthfully I spec wide LSA's on practically every build for the reasons just mentioned as almost everything Im dealing with has a FAST or a factory intake with a 10" or longer plastic intake runner. The wider LSA's net you a later intake closing point which typically makes more peak power and carries alot better past peak.
Ditch the cam when you do the heads and make sure the springs are set up properly for the next grind. It does seem like your getting some valve control issues in the higher RPM....I feel the curve should/could be smoother. Try to set the springs .050 - .060 till coilbind....you may be able to increase some seat pressure and accomplish that preferred distance (less room for the coils of the springs to dance and resonate at higher RPM).
Good luck....but the so-so heads and the un-optimized cam is probably the bulk of your issues here. Part of me is curious who or how that cam was selected, but at the end of the day I guess it really doesn't matter.
Hope this helps...
-Tony
09-19-2011, 04:02 PM
#28
Personally I think the cam is all wrong also....
As others have touched on the reverse split, the installed position, and IMO the tight LSA is all hurting you. Smaller cams work better on wider LSA's....especially with a long runner type manifold and EFI. Truthfully I spec wide LSA's on practically every build for the reasons just mentioned as almost everything Im dealing with has a FAST or a factory intake with a 10" or longer plastic intake runner. The wider LSA's net you a later intake closing point which typically makes more peak power and carries alot better past peak.
Ditch the cam when you do the heads and make sure the springs are set up properly for the next grind. It does seem like your getting some valve control issues in the higher RPM....I feel the curve should/could be smoother. Try to set the springs .050 - .060 till coilbind....you may be able to increase some seat pressure and accomplish that preferred distance (less room for the coils of the springs to dance and resonate at higher RPM).
Good luck....but the so-so heads and the un-optimized cam is probably the bulk of your issues here. Part of me is curious who or how that cam was selected, but at the end of the day I guess it really doesn't matter.
Hope this helps...
-Tony
As others have touched on the reverse split, the installed position, and IMO the tight LSA is all hurting you. Smaller cams work better on wider LSA's....especially with a long runner type manifold and EFI. Truthfully I spec wide LSA's on practically every build for the reasons just mentioned as almost everything Im dealing with has a FAST or a factory intake with a 10" or longer plastic intake runner. The wider LSA's net you a later intake closing point which typically makes more peak power and carries alot better past peak.
Ditch the cam when you do the heads and make sure the springs are set up properly for the next grind. It does seem like your getting some valve control issues in the higher RPM....I feel the curve should/could be smoother. Try to set the springs .050 - .060 till coilbind....you may be able to increase some seat pressure and accomplish that preferred distance (less room for the coils of the springs to dance and resonate at higher RPM).
Good luck....but the so-so heads and the un-optimized cam is probably the bulk of your issues here. Part of me is curious who or how that cam was selected, but at the end of the day I guess it really doesn't matter.
Hope this helps...
-Tony
The cam was just chosen based on the good results I saw from the TR230 and it's notorious rough idle without being a monster cam. I tried researching what I wanted back in '08 instead of just asking someone to spec me something. The cam was on backorder and a friend directed me to someone at Comp and he said he could get me something similar. I had intentions of being stuck with the ls1 intake, but a deal on a Fast fell into my lap and I jumped on it.
I guess when the heads are off I will do what I can to order something more tailored to ported 799s, FAST intake, and a 6600 rpm rev limit and call it good. If I can get a good idea what to look for I can keep an eye out in the classifieds and sell my current cam to offset the costs.
It does drive great on the street and has a lot of low end grunt, then really comes alive nice at 3500rpm or so and pulls hard to redline.
09-21-2011, 08:37 AM
#29
Several reliable sources have looked at both my old dyno (2008) and the newer one from 2010 and say both show signs of valvefloat or top end instability. Starting at 6000rpm in 2008 and as early as 5375rpm on the recent dyno.
Going to look into borrowing or buying a micrometer to measure spring height.
The one Summit sells looks to be too short: 1.4"-1.8"
I found the Proform for $43.11 plus shipping though
Going to look into borrowing or buying a micrometer to measure spring height.
The one Summit sells looks to be too short: 1.4"-1.8"
I found the Proform for $43.11 plus shipping though
09-21-2011, 10:09 AM
#30
Proform also sells one thats 1.6-2.2 I just bought one. It's a nice piece.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66902/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66902/
