6.0? or fix my 5.7
#21
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LQ4 or LQ9 are 65 lbs heavier... Well worth the displacement, if you can't cope with that a LS2 can be taken out to 408 safely as well. 65lbs can be off set in weight by 8 more horse power! Handling on a lowered car with decent shocks is barely noticeable.
having a forged engine now I have no regrets for spending the $4200 on a TSP Short Block... no regrets at all and I've seen 21 mpg hwy with it and 10.9x NA passes.
if your 2000 Camaro is anything like the rest of ours it had 100k+ miles, that weren't the easiest of miles, time for a new motor, and one that will last...
having a forged engine now I have no regrets for spending the $4200 on a TSP Short Block... no regrets at all and I've seen 21 mpg hwy with it and 10.9x NA passes.
if your 2000 Camaro is anything like the rest of ours it had 100k+ miles, that weren't the easiest of miles, time for a new motor, and one that will last...
#22
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LQ4 or LQ9 are 65 lbs heavier... Well worth the displacement, if you can't cope with that a LS2 can be taken out to 408 safely as well. 65lbs can be off set in weight by 8 more horse power! Handling on a lowered car with decent shocks is barely noticeable.
having a forged engine now I have no regrets for spending the $4200 on a TSP Short Block... no regrets at all and I've seen 21 mpg hwy with it and 10.9x NA passes.
if your 2000 Camaro is anything like the rest of ours it had 100k+ miles, that weren't the easiest of miles, time for a new motor, and one that will last...
having a forged engine now I have no regrets for spending the $4200 on a TSP Short Block... no regrets at all and I've seen 21 mpg hwy with it and 10.9x NA passes.
if your 2000 Camaro is anything like the rest of ours it had 100k+ miles, that weren't the easiest of miles, time for a new motor, and one that will last...
Last edited by odarabla; 09-19-2011 at 08:31 AM.
#23
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looks like from what i read, and other research from a few weeks, ill probably just save my block for now just tear it down do all rod and main bearings, arp bolts get the crank turned if its not damaged to much, and just go from there. thanks for the input but im going to save money for now and just get it running again, maybe in the next 2 years or so i'll have the funds for a stroker
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i picked up an 03 6.0 full pullout for $400. for what it would cost to rebuild your ls1 compared to building up the 6.0, it is a no brainer to go with a 6.0
put some ls3/l92 heads + ls3 intake (injectors and fuel rail included), 90mm TB, 85mm MAF. for reliability get some ls7 lifters with ls3 rocker arms for the intake side. a walbro 255 fuel pump. ls2 timing chain and a melling oil pump + all your bolts/gaskets. you are looking at a mean setup probably pushing 500whp with a full exhaust system.
try doing that to an ls1 and i can almost gurantee you will spend more.
put some ls3/l92 heads + ls3 intake (injectors and fuel rail included), 90mm TB, 85mm MAF. for reliability get some ls7 lifters with ls3 rocker arms for the intake side. a walbro 255 fuel pump. ls2 timing chain and a melling oil pump + all your bolts/gaskets. you are looking at a mean setup probably pushing 500whp with a full exhaust system.
try doing that to an ls1 and i can almost gurantee you will spend more.
#25
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Your situation and car use sounds a lot like mine, and I think I have just decided to stick with the ls1 as well (actually trading my bad block and some cash for a good ls6 that I'll rering and use). I plan to auto x a bit, and while 90 lbs or whatever isn't a great deal, when you think about slinging it around on the front of a car it's something to consider. My car is 99.9% cruising anyway, so whatever small gain a 6.0 might give me will, for all practical purposes, be wasted. At some point the return on investment diminishes, and my point is clearly lower than some others here.
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-10-2011 at 11:10 AM.