Valve Stem seal Spring
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Valve Stem seal Spring Well, I have an interesting thing I found in the oil pan when I drained the oil, it was stuck to the magnet, was this miniature spring, and it was not circular anymore, one side was cut. Now I didn't pull the valve covers off, but I can only imagine that this came from a valve stem seal, I can't possible think of anything else in the motor that has this small spring in it. I did start the car up after the oil change, ran great, and I did cut the oil filter open as well, no metal or anything else unusual in there, it was very clean. MY question is, has this happened to anyone else, if so whats the cause, I have never seen it before. I have an LS1 with the LS6 cam and yellow springs in it. Is it worth pulling the valve covers, and going through the process of putting a new valve stem seal on if that is the case, this motor is strictly a road racing motor. Just so I can have the part, does anyone have a part number for the tool to screw into the head to put air in the chamber if I decide to change out the seal if in fact this is the problem. Any insight and help in this matter would be greatly appreciate. Red line is set at 6300 as well. Thanks in advance.
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Just use the "nylon rope at TDC method" to keep the valves in place if you decide to install new guide seals.
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After the rocker arms are pulled off and spark plug removed, put the piston about 1/2 up the cylinder and then feed ~2 ft of soft nylon rope (~3/8" dia) rope down the spark plug hole. Then rotate the engine to bring the piston towards TDC until the engine won't rotate anymore. The rope will be sandwiched between the piston and head, and hold the valves in place when the springs are removed.
After you finish the work, turn the engine backwards until the piston is down from TDC and then pull the rope out of the cylinder.
After you finish the work, turn the engine backwards until the piston is down from TDC and then pull the rope out of the cylinder.
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You dont need the rope, just be sure each cylinder is near TDC before removing the srings. You will need to gently rap on each valve spring retainer with a small hammer to break them free before using THE PROPER tool you BUY to remove the valve springs.
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I'd suggest not rapping on the valve spring retainer with the piston at TDC to prevent any possibly of the valves kissing the piston. Rap on them before putting the piston at TDC.
had the same thing happen to me a couple years ago. It was the valve seal "spring". I had some worn out old Comp 928 dual valve springs that i replaced at the same time. Haven't had a problem sense.
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The weak valve spring idea does sound good, although this motor is brand new. It has 3 track days on it and other misc. idol time or some run time. Brand new block, rings, bearings, cam, lifters, valve springs, push rods, roller rockers, oil pump, balancer, the heads are off of a donor motor, the valve stem seals are all new, and the exhaust valves are new as well, the intakes we reused. A shop set up the heads as well with a valve job and put all the correct spring pressures. I will take the valve cover off over the weekend and see if it was an exhaust or intake valve that was the problem.
Don't be so sure the springs are not the problem. Stock springs are not the best. Also, do you have larger guides where the seal is sticking up higher than normal or a - installed locks or retainer where that can be hitting the seal?
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You barely tap on the retainer, you certainly woooodn't hit on it hard.The idea is to unseat the lock between the retainer and the locks. If you hit it hard enough to move the valve you RUINED the valve!
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If you hit the outside edge of the spring retainer to make the retainer move off the locks, the valve could still move off the seat some because there is no spring pressure holding it up for an instant. As soon as the retainer is off the locks, the valve could drop some off the seat.
But yes, I agree ... use soft blows, no need to go ape.
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Not sure the difference between the larger or smaller seals, and what is "a - installed locks or retainer" what does this mean. I will check it out over the weekend and write back for an update as to what I see.
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How's that? ... unless you made the valve kiss the piston hard. The valve can only pop back to its seat as fast as the spring will allow it to return. I doubt unseating the valve a hair with a hammer blow is going to ruin it.
If you hit the outside edge of the spring retainer to make the retainer move off the locks, the valve could still move off the seat some because there is no spring pressure holding it up for an instant. As soon as the retainer is off the locks, the valve could drop some off the seat.
But yes, I agree ... use soft blows, no need to go ape.
If you hit the outside edge of the spring retainer to make the retainer move off the locks, the valve could still move off the seat some because there is no spring pressure holding it up for an instant. As soon as the retainer is off the locks, the valve could drop some off the seat.
But yes, I agree ... use soft blows, no need to go ape.
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He means if you have a setup where the locks/retainer might sit down closer to the top of the valve guide seal, then it's possible there could be contact and thereby causing the seal spring to pop off.
