Carnage. Time for something new
10-12-2011, 08:00 PM
#42
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...unleashed.html
If I ever do another build that would probably be it.
If I ever do another build that would probably be it.
10-13-2011, 10:07 AM
#47
Give us a call & we can go over some options for you. We can set you up with a rotating assembly, short-block, or even a long-block.
With over 40 short-blocks in stock & a expedite service, we can build you a shorty in a very short amount of time!!
With over 40 short-blocks in stock & a expedite service, we can build you a shorty in a very short amount of time!!
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Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
10-13-2011, 10:36 AM
#49
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that's kinda what I'm thinking.
10-13-2011, 01:47 PM
#52
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Get outta here......
I'm really leaning towards the 383ci. Saving myself some money vs buying another block. That money can go to an intake / tb
yeah send em over. I'll look at em. jaredlewis10@yahoo.com
I'm really leaning towards the 383ci. Saving myself some money vs buying another block. That money can go to an intake / tb
Last edited by SSmoken; 10-13-2011 at 05:25 PM.
10-13-2011, 06:18 PM
#54
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that is a little cheaper than i was thinking itd be. but id still have to spend money on a block that i didnt see a price for in those builds. I would have more ci and less weight with a 383ci build and i have to buy a crank as mine is junk. Id also probably need to replace my 275lb springs on the front with the added weight of an iron block.
that being said, im REALLY leaning towards going the 383 route. If i can get some good power out of it and then hit it with a healthy dose of nitrous, i think i will be quite happy with that. If i can get the car to go high 10's on motor, a 200 shot will do wonders im sure.
that being said, im REALLY leaning towards going the 383 route. If i can get some good power out of it and then hit it with a healthy dose of nitrous, i think i will be quite happy with that. If i can get the car to go high 10's on motor, a 200 shot will do wonders im sure.
10-14-2011, 09:14 PM
#55
Keeps the motor over square. (Bore larger than stroke).
Most of the 383's I have seen seem to make a lttle more torque that the 347 but not much more HP. I would take the money that you save on the crank and put it towards a stand alone and getting set-up for a bigger shot. You don't want to pull 200 from the rails.
Most of the 383's I have seen seem to make a lttle more torque that the 347 but not much more HP. I would take the money that you save on the crank and put it towards a stand alone and getting set-up for a bigger shot. You don't want to pull 200 from the rails.
10-15-2011, 05:29 AM
#56
Keeps the motor over square. (Bore larger than stroke).
Most of the 383's I have seen seem to make a lttle more torque that the 347 but not much more HP. I would take the money that you save on the crank and put it towards a stand alone and getting set-up for a bigger shot. You don't want to pull 200 from the rails.
Most of the 383's I have seen seem to make a lttle more torque that the 347 but not much more HP. I would take the money that you save on the crank and put it towards a stand alone and getting set-up for a bigger shot. You don't want to pull 200 from the rails.
OP, go with the cubes you will be happier you did. You will need a crank no matter how you look at it. Might as well spend the money and go with the cubes. If you go with a 347 you will still need pistons and rods and will still have to machine the block so why not throw a crank in there for the hell of it.
10-15-2011, 09:25 AM
#58
People have been running 383's for years in ls1's so the over square argument is a moot point. You're right on just a little more hp and torque but look at the average hp and torque through the entire rpm band. A 383 will beat a 347 all day with average hp and torque and thats what wins races. I have pulled 200 from the rails with no issue and that's with 93 octane pump gas. Hell, Carter01 on here has pulled 300 from the rails and runs 9.80's but he is on c16.
OP, go with the cubes you will be happier you did. You will need a crank no matter how you look at it. Might as well spend the money and go with the cubes. If you go with a 347 you will still need pistons and rods and will still have to machine the block so why not throw a crank in there for the hell of it.
OP, go with the cubes you will be happier you did. You will need a crank no matter how you look at it. Might as well spend the money and go with the cubes. If you go with a 347 you will still need pistons and rods and will still have to machine the block so why not throw a crank in there for the hell of it.
C16 fuel has nothing to do with pulling from the rails. You are still robbing fuel from the injectors. Have you ever logged your fuel pressure and see what it does when it takes a 200 from the rails? We have, and it is anything but steady
Just my .02 but I would buy a good stock crank for $100 and put the other $800-$900 you saved towards a stand alone and crank the nitrous up. The nitrous will more than make up for that little bit of average power you gained going 383.
10-15-2011, 09:58 AM
#59
Stock rails. I don't remember what pump but its and aftermarket unit. Racetronix or walbro 255l with hotwire kit.
If you went to a stand alone on just a 100 shot and picked up power then you had something wrong. A 100 shot is only a .052 jet N and a .033 jet F, if you mean to say that a little .033 jet causes problems pulling from the rail then you definately have issues then. The power increase you might of seen is from not using pump fuel and running c16 in the standalone which allows you to put a little timing back in and get a little more power.
I never did say that c16 has anything to do with pulling from the rails. Carter 01 just uses c16 because he is on a big shot and doesn't have a standalone.
With going with a 383 you will have the torque and hp on tap all the time instead of having to be handicapped and using nitrous to make up the gap.
I bet if you switch to a stand alone and stop pulling from the rail you would pick up E.T. and HP. We just did one and it picked up everywhere the HP/TQ curves were smoother and he was only pulling a 100 shot off the rails.
C16 fuel has nothing to do with pulling from the rails. You are still robbing fuel from the injectors. Have you ever logged your fuel pressure and see what it does when it takes a 200 from the rails? We have, and it is anything but steady
Just my .02 but I would buy a good stock crank for $100 and put the other $800-$900 you saved towards a stand alone and crank the nitrous up. The nitrous will more than make up for that little bit of average power you gained going 383.
C16 fuel has nothing to do with pulling from the rails. You are still robbing fuel from the injectors. Have you ever logged your fuel pressure and see what it does when it takes a 200 from the rails? We have, and it is anything but steady
Just my .02 but I would buy a good stock crank for $100 and put the other $800-$900 you saved towards a stand alone and crank the nitrous up. The nitrous will more than make up for that little bit of average power you gained going 383.
I never did say that c16 has anything to do with pulling from the rails. Carter 01 just uses c16 because he is on a big shot and doesn't have a standalone.
With going with a 383 you will have the torque and hp on tap all the time instead of having to be handicapped and using nitrous to make up the gap.