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What am I missing for my cam swap?

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Old 10-24-2011, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Whiteaw57
If it were me! I would get 1518s and shim them a bit to get closer to full pressure at max lift. But thats me. and now that I've said that Ill probably be called a fool and told why thats wrong and why you should go with duals.
You're running duals though right?
Old 10-24-2011, 10:07 AM
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Yes I am but I have a lot more cam than a 228R as well. 238/240 and .612 lift. The main reason for duals in my case was more of an experiment to see if I could make duals last a bit longer since my car is my DD. I drive back and forth to college with it. Unless you drive an hour or more with yours every day I would try to go with the lighter weight valve train as I ran into some valve float at around 6700 rpm with the heavy duals.
Old 10-24-2011, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiteaw57
Yes I am but I have a lot more cam than a 228R as well. 238/240 and .612 lift. The main reason for duals in my case was more of an experiment to see if I could make duals last a bit longer since my car is my DD. I drive back and forth to college with it. Unless you drive an hour or more with yours every day I would try to go with the lighter weight valve train as I ran into some valve float at around 6700 rpm with the heavy duals.
Sorry I didnt look @ your sig.. I drive at least 30 mins each way to work everyday (all highway) and never really run the motor up over 6000rpm, so I'm mainly concerned with durability. I agree that any little bit that the valvetrain can be lightened will help, so if the 1518s will get me the lift/pressure I'm looking for and the Duals are overkill, then I'd rather save a few ounces and have a few more available rpms.

Last edited by nichoLaS1; 10-24-2011 at 12:09 PM.
Old 10-24-2011, 01:19 PM
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No problem. The 1518s are nitrided if I remember correctly so even though they're overkill with the .650 lift rating I would shim them up to that and let her eat. Let it warm up good before taking off hard (I let it get to 120* or so before moving the car, and stay under 2000rpm until its over 160*) and youll be fine. I almost wish I had done singles which is why I definitely IMO would recommend them for the 228R. Also just an idea on the first start let the car idle all the way up to full temp. Then let the springs cool back down i.e. one full heat cycle. Thats what a lot of people recommend for "break in" if there is one for springs.
Old 11-13-2011, 11:58 AM
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Ocourse the headers would be out of stock till January right when Im about to finally order some things.. Just my luck

Last edited by nichoLaS1; 01-17-2012 at 10:58 PM.
Old 01-17-2012, 11:14 PM
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Bump for mid January (the delay/anticipation is killin me).. Placing an order as soon as headers are back in stock..

Biggest pending question:

PAC 1218 or 1518 springs? I keep reading too many mixed opinions

As of now I'm leanin towards the 15s based on WhiteAw's (and others) advise but just want to make sure thats the right choice..
Old 02-10-2012, 04:12 PM
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I ended up going with the 1218s on the 228r cam. There's a reason TSP recommends them with that cam (I even asked about upgrading to 1518s, they said the 1218s will do the job but the 1518s will add piece of mind) however in the end it's up to you to make that call. That cam is a .588 lift and the 1218s are rated for .600. To me that's a big enough gap. Now if the cam was a .595~.599 lift, it would be no question - 1518s all day long or duals.

Of course my opinion is biased as I made a pretty large order at once, and was trying to pinch pennies in the end (Well over $2000 between a cam/headers/intake/anything else that was needed for the install) and my train of thought was - if it breaks... make it better, faster, stronger!
Old 02-10-2012, 08:11 PM
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Ah come on....throw some heads on there too.




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