Crank snout custom ordering???
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Crank snout custom ordering??? I'm building a 8-71 blown lq9. I was wondering if anybody has tried to order a crank with a longer snout. (like you could back in the day with the old Chrysler cranks in the BBCs). If so, where from and what information did they need? Any help would be great!
PS. The reason for the longer snout is because the lower cog is not going to be held onto the crank very far, and with the amount of stress in this small of an area i believe will cause a failure.
PS. The reason for the longer snout is because the lower cog is not going to be held onto the crank very far, and with the amount of stress in this small of an area i believe will cause a failure.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: NW AR
Why not just have keyways cut into the crank and just run a ATI Supercharger balancer? Or something similar.
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...s/damsuper.htm
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...s/damsuper.htm
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Cant run the ls7 crank. I need and 4.001 bore and 4.000 stroke. Im not boring the block any other than a hone...
Im going to contact ATI that seems to be a good avenue to look into. I was not fully decieded on running a blanacer/damper or just let the blower belt do the dampening...Thoughts on that?
Im going to contact ATI that seems to be a good avenue to look into. I was not fully decieded on running a blanacer/damper or just let the blower belt do the dampening...Thoughts on that?
Cranks fail because the stress of a SC belt is too far away from a main bearing support. The old school solution to this was to simply make them thicker like a BBC
The problem is LSx cranks are one thickness. LS7, LS9 are longer to make room for the dry sump pump, but the same thickness. No help
Rethink the pulley design or invest in a crank brace
FYI, belts do not dampen the bottom end vibrations. If you balance the parts close enough you wont need a balancer, but the extra mass is always helpful for SC's
For my setup I designed a custom hub to accept a stock LT1 neutral balancer, then used a universal SBC 10 rib pulley. The accessories are driven by a separate belt and the SC on its own 10 rib
The problem is LSx cranks are one thickness. LS7, LS9 are longer to make room for the dry sump pump, but the same thickness. No help
Rethink the pulley design or invest in a crank brace
FYI, belts do not dampen the bottom end vibrations. If you balance the parts close enough you wont need a balancer, but the extra mass is always helpful for SC's
For my setup I designed a custom hub to accept a stock LT1 neutral balancer, then used a universal SBC 10 rib pulley. The accessories are driven by a separate belt and the SC on its own 10 rib
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Pretty sweet setup. I have the ability to machine my own parts so that comes in handy. Your SC belt is quite small. What SC are you running? The belt I have is over 3" wide and uses and large lower cog to drive the SC belt. You can check out the kit on BDS website. Im using the LS1 drive kit...
Its a 10 rib which is ginormous for a serp belt
Cogs are different, you're definitely going to want the SC drive pulley as close to the timing cover as possible
There was a build recently using BDS stuff that ran a cog belt behind the waterpump and spaced all the accessories away from the engine to clear. It was 3" wide, but it got the job done and looked fantastic. Something to look into
Cogs are different, you're definitely going to want the SC drive pulley as close to the timing cover as possible
There was a build recently using BDS stuff that ran a cog belt behind the waterpump and spaced all the accessories away from the engine to clear. It was 3" wide, but it got the job done and looked fantastic. Something to look into
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