Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Oil pressure drops at high rpm

Old 11-10-2011, 09:45 AM
  #41  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
OldCobraGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Doesn't work that way. The crank will rest/rotate is a position where pressure is normal. Under load it will push and that's where you see the pressure drop. When load drops, it assumes its normal running position and pressure returns.
I'm sorry, but that just isn't correct. The reason you have a loss of oil pressure due to bearing failure is the increased clearance. You have that no matter where the crank is. You either have it at one end or the other...depending on whether or not the thrust side is "loaded". The oil will leak from one side or the other.

I'm not saying he doesn't have a thrust issue...I'm saying the reasoning isn't correct. Now, if the thrust was so bad that it allowed the crank to move far enough that it uncovered an oil hole in the block, that's different. But man...that thing would have to be moving a LOT to do that.
Old 11-10-2011, 01:20 PM
  #42  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

What do mean moving a lot? I had .040 of movement and all the crank counterweights were rubbing ridges in the main caps and supports from forward push. The crank walked UNDER LOAD only, and that's where you saw an oil pressure dip. At idle it was fine. So what I said is still right
Old 11-10-2011, 07:51 PM
  #43  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Thanks for all the help. I will be pulling my motor and bringing it to the machine shop, most likely will get some new heads to go with the cam, depending on how much they tell me it is to refresh them. I got a quote from a sponsor to do the motor, $4000 to refresh the motor while keeping the stock heads and the cam in it. Im pretty sure I can do it cheaper than that.
Old 11-10-2011, 08:36 PM
  #44  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Have you measured endplay yet?
Old 11-11-2011, 05:43 AM
  #45  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

No, can you do this with the motor in the car?
Old 11-11-2011, 09:52 AM
  #46  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Yep, remove the two belts on the front and get a prybar and a dial indicator with a metal base. Set the indicator to measure the crank pulley's forward movement, and pry it forward while watching the dial. Pretty simple. Working from under the car of course.
Old 11-11-2011, 11:30 AM
  #47  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
OldCobraGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
What do mean moving a lot? I had .040 of movement and all the crank counterweights were rubbing ridges in the main caps and supports from forward push. The crank walked UNDER LOAD only, and that's where you saw an oil pressure dip. At idle it was fine. So what I said is still right
Good conversation here...

My question to you is...

If you have .040 clearance, it does not change whether you are at idle, WOT or anything in between, right? So why does where the crank is located make any difference in oil pressure? Whether the crank moves forward, backwards or in the middle, it always has .040 clearance regardless. Unless it moves far enough to uncover an oil feed hole, (doubtful at .040) it should make no difference.
Old 11-11-2011, 09:37 PM
  #48  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Ill have to get a dial indicator, probably go to harbor freight
Old 11-11-2011, 11:05 PM
  #49  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

If you pull the car up on ramps, you could have the belts off and have your measurement in 10 minutes or less. I pry softly against the front cover with a HF prybar. You stick the prybar between the front cover and the pulley and when you push towards the rear, it pushes the pulley forward. Don't go crazy, go easy. If your endplay is within spec .004-.008 then the pulley isnt gonna move much and you are going to have to pay attention to clearly see it. It will make a light tap and then when you release tension it will settle rearward and tap again. On an engine with .004-.008 endplay, you can force the crank to go further by prying. So be gentle and feel for the free movement. If you get a huge clunk forward, that would be a trashed thrust bearing.
Old 11-13-2011, 09:01 AM
  #50  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I just measured it, took the belts off also. It came out to .003 to .005". Seems ok to me. Im going to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up and see what it does.
Old 11-13-2011, 09:04 AM
  #51  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

On stock motors in good condition I usually measure about .004.
Old 11-13-2011, 12:30 PM
  #52  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

So it sounds like Im good on that end. I was going to put a mechanical gauge on but its a pain with the BBK intake, I ended up taking the intake off and putting a new sending unit on, oil pressure still drops.

Its odd how it doesnt do it everytime though. Why would this be?

Last edited by SWEET98SS; 11-13-2011 at 08:08 PM.
Old 11-14-2011, 08:50 PM
  #53  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Well no replies and I was bored.

I pulled the motor apart, going to check that O ring to see if its pinched.
Old 11-16-2011, 05:54 PM
  #54  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I pulled the oil pump out, o ring was not pinched. Took the pump apart, didnt see anything odd. I put it all together and took it for a drive.

So 18 miles to work today, must have floor it in 2nd gear alll the way up to 6800 rpms, oil pressure stayed at 45 to 50 psi. It did this all the way to work when i floored it. Of course it was raining on the way home, so I couldnt get on it, but when revving it in neutral to 6000, oil pressure is about 55 to 60 psi.

So, thats about where I am at.
Old 11-16-2011, 07:45 PM
  #55  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
1lejohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pasadena Texas
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Things that make you go h-mmm. Good luck with it.
Old 11-16-2011, 08:20 PM
  #56  
Banned
iTrader: (8)
 
ae13291's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: san fernando valley, california
Posts: 3,093
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

6800 rpm on stock 99' rod bolts

as you said, you have metal in the oil, why bother with anything else, whats the purpose of the mechanical gauge at this point? accept the fact that there is a bad bearing in your motor and the more you drive it the more its getting fucked up. you should have installed the oil pump pickup tube girdle.
Old 12-11-2011, 12:54 PM
  #57  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

So i have a lift now, pulled the motor out the bottom. I just took the heads off, lifters out and cam.

So the culprit is a couple flat lifters and a couple flattened lobes. Looks like i am going to have to rebuilt her.
Old 12-11-2011, 03:59 PM
  #58  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Mystery unraveled.
Old 12-11-2011, 05:22 PM
  #59  
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
 
SWEET98SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Updated with pics

So I assume this was caused by lack of oil pressure?
Attached Thumbnails Oil pressure drops at high rpm-img_0353.jpg   Oil pressure drops at high rpm-img_0354.jpg   Oil pressure drops at high rpm-img_0355.jpg  
Old 12-11-2011, 06:29 PM
  #60  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
lmt0705's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: buffalo NY
Posts: 1,706
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Wow, don't hear many people wiping cams out. How are the bearings?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Oil pressure drops at high rpm



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:28 PM.