4.8 and LS1 stock cams question...
4.8 and LS1 stock cams question... Just picked up an 03 Silverado 1500 4X4 with the 4.8. It's got a 6 inch lift so its not street racing I'm doing lol. I tow with it and camp etc. So I have my stock cam from my 04 GTOand I was wondering if it would be a good cam to throw in the 4.8...
With the 2004 LS1 cam You would pick up prob 3 - 5 hp . If You really want a gain and have money to spend on a cam n springs n push-rods ,,,,,,,,You can gain at least 90 or 100 hp .
I have put several 1998-2000 ls1 came in 4.8/5.3 trucks they do help a lot for as easy of a mod as it is I wouldn't use a 01 up cam there is not enough size difference between them and ur stock can to be worth the install
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From: Maryland
I have an '03 4x4 with a 5.3 and just installed a Comp 265 low lift cam (PN 54-412-11) 212/218 .522/.529 on 114* + 2*, makes really good low end power and wakes things up high also. I am really impressed with how much torque this cam makes down low in a 5.3, it just chugs along now from about 1800 on up.
Cam Motion has their own 212/218 on 113* + 4* that is supposed to perform just as well or maybe even better, but there were more write ups on the Comp (which was about $50 cheaper) so I got the Comp. Either one will use the yellow '02-'04 Z06 valve springs.
Tuning will be required with either of these but you should be able to get a mail order tune from Frost or Black Bear no problem since this is such a popular cam design.
Cam Motion has their own 212/218 on 113* + 4* that is supposed to perform just as well or maybe even better, but there were more write ups on the Comp (which was about $50 cheaper) so I got the Comp. Either one will use the yellow '02-'04 Z06 valve springs.
Tuning will be required with either of these but you should be able to get a mail order tune from Frost or Black Bear no problem since this is such a popular cam design.
DMM are you using the stock converter with your comp cam? I want something with great torque and an all around increase. Tuning won't be a problem there's a guy in town that tuned my GTO with HP tuners and did a great job.
The stock cam is not worth the hastle, its too close in size. The comp 269HR-14 cam (212/218 .522/.529 114LSA + 2) discussed above is a great all round cam for what your doing!!
Check out the gains it has, it gains everywhere!!!
Check out the gains it has, it gains everywhere!!!
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Do you happen to know how well that cam idles? I've never had a cam with a duration like that. That's a split duration correct? It has two more degrees ground into it if I understand correctly.
The +2 just means that it has two degrees of timing ground into the cam. So that was you can line it up straight up (dot to dot) And the cam timing will happen just as the manufacture intended without having to have an adjust timing chain set.
That cam is small it shouldn't have much if any lope to it, but smaller motors make small cams sound bigger than they are.
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From: Maryland
Works great with stock stall, I have a 4" lift on 33's and it still pulls much better than with the 265/75's ever did. Mine idles fine @ 600 RPM (upped from stock 550). You can tell it has a cam when cold as the idle ramps a little since I still have more tuning to do, but once completely tuned it will sound/feel like a stock cam except for tons more power. When hot in gear mine idles as good as stock. Hard to tell its not a stock cam except that there is much more power everywhere throughout the range, up to 6000.
The +2 means there is 2* of advance ground into the cam, which will make power lower in the RPM range. The split duration that favors the exhaust is very common on an LS motor N/A cam, they all seem to make the best power using an exhaust biased cam.
I believe you can can reuse your stock push rods but I would always measure. I had to pull the heads to drill broken exhaust bolts so they got milled 0.025" to up the SCR to about 9.87:1, changing the length of my push rod's.
You will need a timing cover gasket, balancer seal, v/cover gaskets, oil pump (good insurance), LS2 timing chain (much stronger and doesn't stretch as much), and 5/16" wooden dowel rod's (to keep the lifters from falling down), and of course the GM LS6 valve springs. You are probably looking at $550.00 total in parts (including the cam).
I would also get L/T's as well, they have a nice set of SS L/T's for about $330.00 from one vendor. Go up to the "Performance Trucks" tab in the top left hand corner of the LS1-Tech home page and look in the GM performance section, there was a thread about these headers there.
The +2 means there is 2* of advance ground into the cam, which will make power lower in the RPM range. The split duration that favors the exhaust is very common on an LS motor N/A cam, they all seem to make the best power using an exhaust biased cam.
I believe you can can reuse your stock push rods but I would always measure. I had to pull the heads to drill broken exhaust bolts so they got milled 0.025" to up the SCR to about 9.87:1, changing the length of my push rod's.
You will need a timing cover gasket, balancer seal, v/cover gaskets, oil pump (good insurance), LS2 timing chain (much stronger and doesn't stretch as much), and 5/16" wooden dowel rod's (to keep the lifters from falling down), and of course the GM LS6 valve springs. You are probably looking at $550.00 total in parts (including the cam).
I would also get L/T's as well, they have a nice set of SS L/T's for about $330.00 from one vendor. Go up to the "Performance Trucks" tab in the top left hand corner of the LS1-Tech home page and look in the GM performance section, there was a thread about these headers there.
Last edited by DMM; Nov 6, 2011 at 06:36 PM.
I thought about doing LT's but wasnt sure if I wanted to. I thought about just sticking with the stock manifolds. You think the cam will work well with the manifolds?
