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Most durable rotating assembly?

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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Default Most durable rotating assembly?

In general, which manufacturer of rotating assemblies is the 'best'? By best I mean, which have the most durable/long lasting internals? I don't want to purchase a completely forged rotating assembly, have the security of forged internals, and end up throwing a rod ya know? So which manufacturer has the best quality rotating assemblies?
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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You don't just "throw a rod" for no reason with any of the major forged parts manufacturers. As far as most consistent I'd say Callies.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JS01
You don't just "throw a rod" for no reason with any of the major forged parts manufacturers. As far as most consistent I'd say Callies.
Well I should've mentioned I'm not just gonna commute the car hah, why would I spend $ on forged internals if I was going to? I have plans to boost it so I just want to beef up my motor beforehand so it can handle it. I just threw a rod in my stock form LS1 :/ so I wan't my internals to be strong enough to handle the extra power, especially for how it will be driven. Callies? I've heard good things about them... any others?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 05:03 AM
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Lunati crank, Carrillo rods, custom JE pistons.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Jontall
Lunati crank, Carrillo rods, custom JE pistons.
I saw a Lunati kit... damn they're pricey :/ But I only want quality parts to go into my build so F it! Better safe than sorry ya know. So far I was given suggestions (on many forums) for a lunati or callies crank, diamond or JE pistons, mahle or lunati rods... not sure which combo I'm set on yet.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:19 AM
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There is such thing as overkill. RPM, Boost? Expected Power?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
There is such thing as overkill. RPM, Boost? Expected Power?
I have plans for boost and whatnot, nothing right now is for sure. I just want to make sure my motor can handle boost before I go that route.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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I'd stick with the stock crank to save money...there's no need for a forged one unless you are over 1000rwhp.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
I'd stick with the stock crank to save money...there's no need for a forged one unless you are over 1000rwhp.
I was going to go with a 383 or 408 crank, that's why... and why not go forged ya know?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 777
I'd stick with the stock crank to save money...there's no need for a forged one unless you are over 1000rwhp.
I second this im in the process of a 370 LQ4 build Im buying K1 rods and Wiseco pistons for the stock crank. I was thinking 408 also but This combo came recommended from a few people on the board and it'll save me a few K.
for other mods.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gs462
I second this im in the process of a 370 LQ4 build Im buying K1 rods and Wiseco pistons for the stock crank. I was thinking 408 also but This combo came recommended from a few people on the board and it'll save me a few K.
for other mods.
Maybe I'll keep the stock crank, but would be temporary.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Okay, now that we know that you don't have a lot of money; we'll get real. The stock crank is fine or Callies dragon slayer, Callies ultra rods, and off the shelf Wiseco pistons (comes with rings). Compstar is fine also to save money. The block will have to be machined (clearanced for a 4" stroke) and everything balanced/assembled.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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So there is no-confusion... You have to decide the stroke up-front, because there is no-temporary. The pistons will be for a stock stroke, or a 4" stroke. In other words, the pistons are stroke dependent. You savy?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by need2speed94
Well I should've mentioned I'm not just gonna commute the car hah, why would I spend $ on forged internals if I was going to? I have plans to boost it so I just want to beef up my motor beforehand so it can handle it. I just threw a rod in my stock form LS1 :/ so I wan't my internals to be strong enough to handle the extra power, especially for how it will be driven. Callies? I've heard good things about them... any others?
You can spend thousands just for a custom crank.....thousands on custom rods and pistons.....the best bearings made and all put together by the best builder.

If the tune is off....you will throw a rod. If the tune is good, the stock crank with forged rods and pistons will handle 1,000 HP.

.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gs462
I second this im in the process of a 370 LQ4 build Im buying K1 rods and Wiseco pistons for the stock crank. I was thinking 408 also but This combo came recommended from a few people on the board and it'll save me a few K.
for other mods.
Well looks mine will wind up being a stroker the crank in my motor was worse than I was told it was when I bought it. So 408 it is.
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