Best H/C/I combo for a road race-475rwhp?
#21
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Judging by your car situation and budget, I'm just going to say buy a junker RX7. Put an L33 in it and have fun. Light weight. Brakes and turns fairly well as is, and only cost a little bit for the engine swap parts. It just doesn't sound like either Camaro is the way to go for what you want and in your budget.
I have an FC RX7 sitting on the side of my house that I bought for $800. Turbo brakes, hood and Torsen limited slip. Gives you an idea what you can get for next to nothing. Suspension parts for that car are cheap and plentiful. Complete L33's are around $1300.
I have an FC RX7 sitting on the side of my house that I bought for $800. Turbo brakes, hood and Torsen limited slip. Gives you an idea what you can get for next to nothing. Suspension parts for that car are cheap and plentiful. Complete L33's are around $1300.
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If you already have the heads & cam
Do 383ci rotating assembly with ported 102mm intake manifold, it is recommended to change the cam to match your new more cubes.
You will have better powerband & nice flat tq curve, that's what you really want on DD & road race
Do 383ci rotating assembly with ported 102mm intake manifold, it is recommended to change the cam to match your new more cubes.
You will have better powerband & nice flat tq curve, that's what you really want on DD & road race
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#23
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Judging by your car situation and budget, I'm just going to say buy a junker RX7. Put an L33 in it and have fun. Light weight. Brakes and turns fairly well as is, and only cost a little bit for the engine swap parts. It just doesn't sound like either Camaro is the way to go for what you want and in your budget.
I have an FC RX7 sitting on the side of my house that I bought for $800. Turbo brakes, hood and Torsen limited slip. Gives you an idea what you can get for next to nothing. Suspension parts for that car are cheap and plentiful. Complete L33's are around $1300.
I have an FC RX7 sitting on the side of my house that I bought for $800. Turbo brakes, hood and Torsen limited slip. Gives you an idea what you can get for next to nothing. Suspension parts for that car are cheap and plentiful. Complete L33's are around $1300.
#26
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With 346 inches trying to make a high number like that its gonna suffer in the tq and driveability not to mention durability departments.
Why not make the car lighter, put a set of 17x11 on all 4 corners with some r compound tires to make it faster?
Being fast on a roadcourse is not really about HP, I figured that out when a Spec Miata blew my doors off at Barber.
Why not make the car lighter, put a set of 17x11 on all 4 corners with some r compound tires to make it faster?
Being fast on a roadcourse is not really about HP, I figured that out when a Spec Miata blew my doors off at Barber.
#27
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With 346 inches trying to make a high number like that its gonna suffer in the tq and driveability not to mention durability departments.
Why not make the car lighter, put a set of 17x11 on all 4 corners with some r compound tires to make it faster?
Being fast on a roadcourse is not really about HP, I figured that out when a Spec Miata blew my doors off at Barber.
Why not make the car lighter, put a set of 17x11 on all 4 corners with some r compound tires to make it faster?
Being fast on a roadcourse is not really about HP, I figured that out when a Spec Miata blew my doors off at Barber.
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Lots of good ideas. Some not that great. We are not buying either a miata or some junked out RX7 project. I already lap all the ones in my group, as well as the 436hp C6's. I will use what I have. We have and will continue to lighten it up to a point. 3400 lbs and putting the driver on a diet. Running NT01 r rubber already. Making a few more upgrades to brakes and suspension.
With all of that said, I don't really want to rev past 6800. My current engine budget is $5000. Enough for better heads, cam and a retune, but not a 383 stroker kit and machining which I would dearly love to do. If I thought I could get that done for a few thousand more I might even spring for it, but it seems to double my budget and then some.
And I have never had any 205 afr heads. I missed a chance to buy some on here by one day. If not I would do that and a more aggressive cam with a ported fast and I think we would have been pretty close.
Thanks for the input!!!
With all of that said, I don't really want to rev past 6800. My current engine budget is $5000. Enough for better heads, cam and a retune, but not a 383 stroker kit and machining which I would dearly love to do. If I thought I could get that done for a few thousand more I might even spring for it, but it seems to double my budget and then some.
And I have never had any 205 afr heads. I missed a chance to buy some on here by one day. If not I would do that and a more aggressive cam with a ported fast and I think we would have been pretty close.
Thanks for the input!!!
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There was also a Gallardo in that group, the Miata showed the Gallardo the way around Barber for the whole 30 minute session. The two fastest guys in the advanced group.
To the OP
Have looked into buying a used LS3? With just a cam and bolt ons they can make the power you are looking for and should be able to stay inside the budget. Especially if you sell off the other engine.
Its hard to get the torque you need for a heavy trackday car out of 346 inches when going for all that power you want, it becomes high strung and high maintenance.
Also look at LS2 topend stuff, it bolts on as far as I know.
My car is heavy, almost 4000lbs when an instructor is in the car, it makes 375 to the wheels and is fairly quick in HPDE's.
The only cars I really have problems with are well driven e36/e46 M3's on r comps and GT3RS's.
I would look hard at my driving also, I had a good instructor ask to ride with me at Circuit Grand Bayou, changed the way I was taking 2 corners and dropped a second off my laptimes.
Good luck.
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No doubt my driving has room for improvement. And as to your suggestion about selling the current LS1 for all the reasons mentioned are good. As well as the LS3 part of the equation.
It's bad for me having had the 67 with 700hp that had little competition down the straights and although set up for the road course (see tt Z06 @ firebird on you tube) it did not handle the corners as well as the current 02 does.
So...I'm going to sell the 69 camaro, pump up the braking and suspension abilities on the 02 and use a 416 stroked LS3 to get to 550rwhp. That should get me back to playing with the big boys in the advanced group. More retirement funds down the drain. I guess even an old guy has to have a little fun?
It's bad for me having had the 67 with 700hp that had little competition down the straights and although set up for the road course (see tt Z06 @ firebird on you tube) it did not handle the corners as well as the current 02 does.
So...I'm going to sell the 69 camaro, pump up the braking and suspension abilities on the 02 and use a 416 stroked LS3 to get to 550rwhp. That should get me back to playing with the big boys in the advanced group. More retirement funds down the drain. I guess even an old guy has to have a little fun?
#31
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So...I'm going to sell the 69 camaro, pump up the braking and suspension abilities on the 02 and use a 416 stroked LS3 to get to 550rwhp. That should get me back to playing with the big boys in the advanced group. More retirement funds down the drain. I guess even an old guy has to have a little fun?
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Yes, it would be fun to just leave the 69 as is (very unfinished), tune the weak sauce 383, add a little n20 and head to the track and she what she'll do. Oh well. That's what happens when $600,000 goes south in 2 years.
#33
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Can't imagine that much power in my car, its already hard on my C6 brakes, I have moved up to Carbotech XP10, I will probably move to a 12 or a Performance friction set, that heavy turd devours pads.
Better put some clampers on that beotch, Some Moveit, Stoptech, Porsche BBK ish.
BTW have you ever run on a Nitto NT-05? If so how do they compare to a R comp tire?
Better put some clampers on that beotch, Some Moveit, Stoptech, Porsche BBK ish.
BTW have you ever run on a Nitto NT-05? If so how do they compare to a R comp tire?
#34
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I am planning on running a similar setup. Stock bottom end, Ported 90/90, Ported AFR 205 heads and a mild cam. Don't mean to thread hijack but Just wondering if this combo might be a little too much for a road course especially for a first time racer such as myself. Just worried it might be a little to much speed/power and might make the car alot harder to stop and slow down for the corners. Could go with a milder setup but don't really want to lose all that power coming from the 408 I was running. From what I've read this combo should put down 450-475 to the wheels.
#36
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I am planning on running a similar setup. Stock bottom end, Ported 90/90, Ported AFR 205 heads and a mild cam. Don't mean to thread hijack but Just wondering if this combo might be a little too much for a road course especially for a first time racer such as myself. Just worried it might be a little to much speed/power and might make the car alot harder to stop and slow down for the corners. Could go with a milder setup but don't really want to lose all that power coming from the 408 I was running. From what I've read this combo should put down 450-475 to the wheels.
Mine is heavy, 4000 lbs with an instructor in the car and at Roebling Road it would run 137mph on the front stretch and it only has 375 to the wheels.
I dont see you using that power as a novice, it might get you in trouble.
#37
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I am planning on running a similar setup. Stock bottom end, Ported 90/90, Ported AFR 205 heads and a mild cam. Don't mean to thread hijack but Just wondering if this combo might be a little too much for a road course especially for a first time racer such as myself. Just worried it might be a little to much speed/power and might make the car alot harder to stop and slow down for the corners. Could go with a milder setup but don't really want to lose all that power coming from the 408 I was running. From what I've read this combo should put down 450-475 to the wheels.
Make sure you get some good suspension (koni/strano), good brakes (blank rotors), and some R-compound or other sticky tires on there.
#38
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Throttle stop. Excellent suggestion until you get the hang of it. Otherwise, don't do anything and go out there and learn it. Control and holding back is usually the hardest for even the best drivers to learn. - Don't mistake that for being the scared slow *** around the track pissing everyone off. - Sneak up to the limit (of your driving in the car) and back off a little. Are we talking about the 98 TA that's in your sig below? Your brakes will be very hot very quick. Start off with some good High temp racing pads and fluid. Build from there. My cars weight is in the low 2Ks and I still have / need these brakes. (note: rotor is on wrong side, just on for fitment)
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#39
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I would do some track days before I did that.
Mine is heavy, 4000 lbs with an instructor in the car and at Roebling Road it would run 137mph on the front stretch and it only has 375 to the wheels.
I dont see you using that power as a novice, it might get you in trouble.
Mine is heavy, 4000 lbs with an instructor in the car and at Roebling Road it would run 137mph on the front stretch and it only has 375 to the wheels.
I dont see you using that power as a novice, it might get you in trouble.
Very hard on brakes. I don't think yours will last much longer than a couple of laps. Throttle stop. Excellent suggestion until you get the hang of it. Otherwise, don't do anything and go out there and learn it. Control and holding back is usually the hardest for even the best drivers to learn. - Don't mistake that for being the scared slow *** around the track pissing everyone off. - Sneak up to the limit (of your driving in the car) and back off a little. Are we talking about the 98 TA that's in your sig below? Your brakes will be very hot very quick. Start off with some good High temp racing pads and fluid. Build from there. My cars weight is in the low 2Ks and I still have / need these brakes. (note: rotor is on wrong side, just on for fitment)
#40
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I have a set of stock 98 ls1 heads laying around that I could use and with a mild cam I could probably be a little less than 400rwhp. do you think this would be a more wise decision? It certainly would save me alot of money. Just don't want to be down on power for the street. I also don't know how well my ported FAST intake would work with crappy stock heads.
Right now, I've got basically brand new EBC redstuff pads and rotors on the car. Was hoping to get a few uses out of them before stepping up to some racing pads and rotors. What is this throttle stop you speak of? Yes the 98 TA in sig. I currently have strano springs and bilstein shocks. I was planning on getting strano swaybars, fays2 watts link, UMI road race k member and a good torque arm.
Right now, I've got basically brand new EBC redstuff pads and rotors on the car. Was hoping to get a few uses out of them before stepping up to some racing pads and rotors. What is this throttle stop you speak of? Yes the 98 TA in sig. I currently have strano springs and bilstein shocks. I was planning on getting strano swaybars, fays2 watts link, UMI road race k member and a good torque arm.
I would either port the heads or buy a used set of LS6 heads, they can be had out of junk yards cheap as the came on some trucks, casting 243 or 799. Or buy a used set off here for $400 ish dollars.
A stock 03 LS6 setup makes a killer road course setup. Heads, cam and intake on a stock bottom end.
Those brake pads you have are junk, you need at minimum a set of Hawk DTC 30's front and a HP+ on the rear with some cooling ducts on the front.
I have a set of DTC30's if you are interested, 1 track weekend on them. I moved up to C6 vette brakes with Carbotech 10's on the front.
EDIT
If it was me. I would run what you have with a LS6 intake. PLENTY of power to get you into a LOT of trouble.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 01-02-2012 at 11:31 AM.