bion.pilcher

iTrader: (2)

can anyone help me out with this?!? i'm curious about the LSA of cam. what's the difference between a high LSA and a low LSA. i feel like i've read about it somewhere, but can't seem to find it anymore.

the cam i have is: 244/247 621/621 114LSA

can someone make this idiot proof? like "Cams for dummies" or something?

JPH

iTrader: (2)

What size of motor are you putting this cam profile in and what are your goals with the car? Lobe Separation Angle is the distance between intake and exhaust lobe centerlines. It usually will dictate where the engine peak torque can occur. LOW LSAs 106-111* can be classified as RACE and 112-116* can/could be classified as STREET. In a nutshell.

bion.pilcher

iTrader: (2)

just a LS1. my goal is a street car with 475 to 500 RWHP. my mods are as followed:

Volant Cold Air Intake
92mm Typhoon Intake Manifold
90mm Edelbrock throttle body
244/247 621/621 114LSAdum
Long Tube Headers
4L60E
3200 RPM Torque Converter (not sure if i NEED to upgrade)
4:10 Gears
BBK Underdrive Pulley Kit
SLP 160 degree Thermostat
Strut bar
subframe connectors
LS2 timing chain
Aluminum Driveshaft
High Performance Lifters

none of it's installed, i'm literally getting all of what i may need then installing all at once. i'm still trying to figure out what heads i need to reach my goal. i live in England so i can't call anyone to talk to about it.

my future upgrades consist of:

90+mm MAF
42# injectors
MSD ignition wires
MSD Coils
tubular k member
heads (not sure which ones, i've thought PRC 227 or the Stage 2.5 5.3, there's a $900 dollar difference so i'm HOPING i can go with the 5.3 heads)



well, this is my set up, that's my goal.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Where do I begin here. Alot of mismatch stuff here and unneeded product.

bion.pilcher

iTrader: (2)

mismatch!? can you explain more??

msydow

that cam is freakin huge. just because youre in england doesnt mean you cant email a vendor and get the right set up. you are going to have to flycut for that cam even with stock heads i bet, and its not gonna make power til 4000rpm plus. i had an ms4 in my stock ls1 and i really liked it. how much of this stuff have you already purchased?

baxsom

iTrader: (6)

just because I am trying to understand cam language myself, you said that the cam is huge. That isnt a lot of duration but I am guessing it is because of the lift correct? the 224ish cams from TSP, thunderracing etc have a lift of .600 or less and they are considered smaller cams.

msydow

no, the duration on your cam is a lot. to me a cam in the 220's is small. im putting a 224/224 in my ls1 thats goin in my truck. i put a 231/234 in my buddies daily driver T/A which i consider a decent daily driver cam for a six speed. i put a 235/240 in my other buddies 3600 stalled T/A which he drives 2-3 days a week. in an auto i consider this pretty big for a car driven often on the street. sounds really nasty with the cut out open. then i had my MS4 which is a 239/242 which i only drove on the weekends. it was really peaky. felt like it didnt really wake up til 3500 or a little higher at WOT and pulled til 7000rpm. the cam you posted is a 244/247. i would think before i put that in my 383 because now that i have my MS4 in it the driveability is better and still pulls really hard up top.

msydow

this cam is pretty close to yours.

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1156-te...-camshaft.aspx

bion.pilcher

iTrader: (2)

it's a little bit bigger than a Trex cam yeah. and honestly, i guess my patience isn't all that great because i've TRIED talking to TexasSpeed and ThunderRacing via emails. i've only ever been emailed back 2 times... and that was about lifters...

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Here is my 2 cents. (don't be mad, just here to help you sort this deal out)

Volant CAI= DON'T need for F-body. Looks into FAST Toys products.
92mm Typhoon Intake= Heavy, Hot garbage. Use FAST or LS6
90mm Edlebrock T/B= Look at Nick Williams T/B
244/247 cam= subtract about 6* of duration from both sides
LT headers= ok
4L60E= Hope it's rebuilt and install a Trans-Go shift kit
3200 Stall= depending on cam/engine combo a Yank SS3600+ better choice
4:10 Gears= ok
BBK U/D Pulley Kit= ok
SLP 160* Stat= ok
Strut Bar= ok
Subframe Connectors= ok
LS2 T/C= ok
Alum. Driveshaft= ok
H/P Lifters= ok make sure they are a good brand name

Future Mods:
90mm+ MAF= ok TSP, LPE or Z06
42# Injectors= ok
MSD wires= ok
MSD Coils= Not Needed/Waste of money, stockers work very fine
Tubular K-Member= ok
Heads= Lots of choices here. AFR, TFS, etc....

Trying to make 475-500rwhp threw an A4 with your current mods would be very difficult imo. 440rwhp+ is acheivable though.

msydow

BTW, the stalled auto i mentioned above made 430ish i think with a circle d 3600. that was with the 235/240 .648/.609 on a 112. that was with a stock rebuild ls1. only upgrade was ARP rod bolts and .005" cut off the deck to true it up. i agree with JPH aobve for the most part, but i think you could still run a t rex or MS4 if you wanted and the 4.10's will keep it in the power band with out the use of a 4000rpm stall. i think you would still be better off with a 3600+ though. i have only built about 8 or 9 mildly modified ls vehicles so there is probably somebody else you should be listening to. ha ha.