niphilli

He would probably love some lope, but not at the expense of driveability.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You want to vastly open your options? Get a very small converter. I recommend a PTC 2800. If you didn't tell him it was in there he would probably never notice it.

Why?

1. GFs old car had an ls6 cam in it.. Even that cam pushed on the brakes at red lights. It made the car not enjoyable for us to drive. I will NEVER recommend anything other than a stock cam for a stock converter because of this reason alone. A small 2800 converter would make the car SO much more enjoyable to drive.

2. A 2800 is so small (only 1000RPMs or so over factory) that he wouldn't even notice it after he put 2-300 miles on it. Once at 40mph it would love and would drive IDENTICAL to stock. Under that, it will take a couple more hundred RPMs for the same rate of acceleration. My GF after a couple days of driving didn't even notice her 3200 she had in her Trans Am.. She did notice it was more pleasant sitting still at red lights and stop signs. She didn't want a converter because she didn't want to make driveability worse, she listened to me and was very thankful.

3. The performance gain will be amazing... At 525$ shipped with a cooler you can't really beat it.


You said you didn't want to sacrifice driveability but yet you want a cam and no converter. A cam will make a car not fun to drive.. A cam and a converter, absolute blast.
There is a VERY good reason people (usually experience "been there done that" guys) are anti cam with no converter.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Agreed with the been there done that lol.
Put a hot cam in my lt1 z28 and it sucked driving that thing around without a stall with it pulling on the brakes and bucking. After I put in a 2600 stall the car was much more fun to drive and I would never thinking of putting a cam in before a stall. I always do stalls long before cam since than. So put the cam in for him and than we can wait for you to get back on here and ask for stall recomendations because he is tired of the car pulling through the brakes. You can get a 2600-2800 or 3000-3200 Circle D converter for $400 shipped and a good cooler for $55. So spend $460 and you can have a quality converter.

garygnu

take a look at the comp camquest6 to see what each comp cam power mite look like.look at 54-408-11 or 54-455-11.

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

I have a 2800 converter..... I'm wondering what converter does GM put in the 2004 Z06 Corvette?

Droptopws6

iTrader: (13)

All Z-06's are 6-speeds...

niphilli

I downloaded camquest (Very cool tool), below is some info from that software:

Reccomended camshafts of interest to me for category: Automotive, High Torque, good economy, idle, overall performance:
COMP 54-412-11 (212.0/218.0 0.522/0.529 114LSA)
COMP 54-424-11 (212.0/218.0 0.558/0.563 115LSA)
COMP 54-451-11 (208.0/212.0 0.554/0.558 115LSA)


Thanks Gary

JPH

iTrader: (2)

#54-424-11 is what I would say to use out of those 3 Gary.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

If your guys cars are bucking with those TINY cams then you need a better tuner...try pcmforless...my 224/230 dont push thru the brakes at all, and thats on a mail order tune!

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

If you're running stock manifolds and want very smooth street manners, I would go with something more like this: 218/226 .598/.570 116LSA +4 custom Patrick G cam. That would use EPS lobes on the intake and XE high lift lobes for the exhaust. This would give long spring life with 918 beehives and give some nice power gains while working well with the stock stall.

niphilli

Thanks Patrick, I was leaning toward the EPS 218/230 but was concerned that it was too much duration. I had decided in my mind to call EPS and have them spec something along the lines of 212/224 with their lobes. Your cam seems to fit the bill perfectly!

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Bull ****. The tune has nothing to do with it pushing through the brakes at a stop light.

An ls6 pushes on the brakes and your 224/230 cam doesn't push at all?

Impossible.

niphilli

Hi Patrick I found this quote from you in another thread, does the low end torque loss apply to this camshaft?

What would the shift point be on this camshaft (would like to retain stock)?

Thanks!
-Nick

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

The wider LSA does not hurt you as bad when you have less duration. My 218 cam has an 3-7 degree earlier intake valve closing point compared to a 224 116LSA cam, which increases dynamic compression and raises low rpm torque.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, lemons12 made some very good points; don't totally write off a slightly higher stall TC (2800-3200 range). I'd do some research and contact some of the sponsors, at least just to educate yourself so you have a better understanding of stalls.


http://www.converter.cc/
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/st...lt1%202800.htm
http://www.converter.cc/product_p/st...lt1%203000.htm

http://www.circledspecialties.com/
http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

If the tiny brake push bothers you then don't cam it

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Yea, thats it...

How many cars have you modded again? Seems to me none or possibly 1. Hell, how many internally modified cars have you rode in?

shift_grind

by z06 cam are you talking about the c5 z06 cam? If you are getting brake push with that cam on a stock verter you fucked up the tune, no if ands or buts about it.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Yes C6Zo6...

I'm sure he fucked the tune.... He had my Ms4 car running perfect, DD... No /surging/dying/started in 20 degrees or 90 degrees first start/etc etc.. We all know how much harder ls6 cams are to tune than Ms4s.

sweet99ss

iTrader: (41)

Funny you say that. My cars are all tuned by pcmforless. Like lemons said the car pulling through the brakes has nothing to do with the tune!