i am getting some MAC midlength headers, i dont have catz, i have a turndown, and that really the only like exhaust performance mods besides gears and a lid...

i want a good sounding came but my bf got one with a 111 lsa and it was very hard to tune...

i don't want to go through that... but i want a very good/mean sounding cam when i am at a redlight... i want it loud (not quiet)

what would you guys recommend...

 

I love my FMS11 cam (228/230 112+4*) Alan did a mail order tune on it and it drives great. Even before the tune there wasnt any real issues. his cams are awesome.

 

ok now im not too familiar with cams... what does 112+4 mean?

 

112 lsa with 4 degrees of advance--that is all I know!

 

but what does that mean im sorry for all the questions but i want to make the right decision...

 

Quick search:
From MSURacing: "What they mean by having 4 advance already in is that they have put the intake valve centerline at 110 degrees. This is going to help out the low and midrange power by giving you more 'Effective Compression Ratio.' This is why a cam is advanced is to take advantage of trapping effiecencies at lower RPMS. The trade off is going to be a little bit on the top end."

LSA is your lobe separation. A lower lsa gives more lope, usually a little less drivability, and a shorter peak power range. If I am wrong on this guys, please correct me!

 

depends on auto or m6. 221/221 or 224/224 with a lobe separation of 112-114 with a lift around 560 or so with a 4 degrees advance will have a great sound but wont shake the car like its fallin apart. even after its tuned. A cam like that will build good power also. A stall is recomended for the auto..enjoy.

 

SS GIRL:

Call ALAN of FUTRAL as he is a KING of lS1 CAM WORLD and tell him what you want, what your uses will be for the car, what power expectations you have and hard you want it to lope, etc and HE WILL HOOK YOU UP BIG TIME! Go to one of the BEST for his experience and recommendations and you will be HAPPY AND GOOD TO GO!

 

I agree go with Alan, I just received my F4 cam!!

 

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Personally, if you want something that will be very drivable, but make globbs of power, any of the 224/224 112LSA type cams would do that for ya. If you want something over the 400rwhp mark, but alittle lopier then the 224, hit up some of the Futural cams.
Oh, and save yourself the hassle with the MAC's, and pick up a set of real Long tube headers. They're about the same price now adays, and will give you better power.
.

 

I would go with a tame cam from MTI like a c2. Or you could go extreme with a g5x3. I have the g5x2 and love it. But I have alot of mods on the car.

 

a little off subject but, i was wondering why you chose the mac mids also. i had a set of qtps with the qtec dual cutout y pipe, but i had to cancel the order the day they were shipping due to getting arrested for contributing to a minor. i have the mac mids, off road y pipe, and a cutout; they aren't that loud. will be going back to quick time performance as soon as i get my cashflow going again. if your going for budget i'd recommend pacesetters. i think texas speed & performance has a special on them right now. as for cam choice, im eyeballin' the t-rex v.2 from thunder racing.

 

well i was actually going to get themmostly because money wise it made since... but after looking at the Pacesetters the price is right...

ok, now my question is... Pacesetters are louder than MACs? I listened to some sound clips but you know how it is on the computer.. and am I making the right decision if I go with LTs instead of Midlengths??

 

I have Mac's, no cats, and the C2 cam (224/581/112) and it runs good. Not tuned yet so cold starts it really searches for an idle. But I am happy with it. It pulls hard above 4K rpm. The sound is a little high pitched with the Macs though.

 

BTW~ every person I have talked to in person locally who have Pacesetters had some sort of problem. It is all install problems and each had to end up going to a muffler shop to rememdy the problem. waste of money IMO

 

Hey, I like your response, just wish you would quote the source when you do things like that. I see that you added a little to the end to spice it up.

You are correct in that the tighter the lobe center, the more peaky it will be. But this is only in reference to an exact lobe replica with only the centerlines moved.
Just because you have a tight LSA, it doesn't always mean it is going to idle rough either, it is the hole shape of the lobes that changes your idle, mainly because of the increased overlap.

Mark

 

i didnt have any issues arrise with my pacesetters that i already didnt know about prior to...and really the only issue is having to grind the kmember everything else fit like a glove

 

The macs will give you more of a formula one car sound, rather then a deep rumble. They will usually give you midrange power, but not as much topend power as the longtubes.
It's not really "high pitched", but it is noticably higher .... and no the longtubes wont be much louder.

You have to grind down the k-member SLIGHTLY to allow them to fit. Some people also grind down their block to make it alittle flatter, but it is usually not necessary. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to do this, it would take a 10 year old 40 seconds. I couldn't possibly see this as a reason to skip on the extra power the longtubes would provide for a given amount of money.
.

 

also LT's with no cats will be loud one way or the other...my borla at idle is very quiet but at wot it screams...but with the converter i say right around 5000rpms because of the fairly high shift extension so its a constant loud with very little drop off. Do you have an auto or manual?