93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Does it look like the one on the left?

RezinTexas

Yep. Does that mean I have a Gen 4 engine? All other indicators point to a Gen 3 engine that these came out of (knock sensor locations, crank & cam sensor color).
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93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Did it have a 58x reluctor or a 24x? Front cover mounted cam sensor? Knock sensors located on the side of the block instead of the lifter valley area? I was pretty sure all LM7s are Gen III, just may have used the Gen IV style rods like the LQ4/9 and LS2 did.

mechanix565

How much ya thinking

RezinTexas

PM sent

RezinTexas

all other indicators point to a Gen 3 engine. I must have one of the last LM7's where they were using the Gen 4 rods like you said.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

If you're tearing up the engine and going with 600rwhp on the bottle then why are you putting in used OEM parts?

Since you're doing all that work and pushing that much power why not get some budget forged stuff. You can buy rods/pistons for under 1k that will take a beating, much more than OEM cast stuff.

Saving a few bux on the rotating assembly of a serious nitrous car is gonna come bite you in the *** eventually and cost you much more in the long run.

Sorry for the OT, but that's what I would do if I was tearing into the engine itself.

93Z2871805

iTrader: (5)

Because buying a $125 set of rods and pistons looks more attractive than $1k. GM uses the same materials in the 556 hp supercharged LSA without problems, and people are running superchargers on stock bottom end LS3s without issue (alot of them seeing 550-600+rwhp). Once again, Car Craft ran 1200hp through a bone stock bottom end 4.8 for something like 60 pulls without issue. ARP fasteners, good bearings, rings, balancing, and these motors will take quite a beating.

RezinTexas

personal preference. I'm spending the money for forged parts although I'll probably never see more than 500-600hp.