383 rotating assembly vs short block
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
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From: Hurley, VA
383 rotating assembly vs short block Which is the better route? What machining needs to be done to the factory block? I wouldn't imagine it being a direct bolt in. Also right now I've got PRC 215s and a MS4. How would that setup act if the only thing changed was the cubic inches.
Depending on the pistons, it could change the compression ratio, but with all else equal you probably won't see any gain in horsepower. Torque will increase though.
I went the 383 route, didnt pick up too much horsepower but did gain more torque, I am sure I could have wrung more power out of it Normally aspirated, but I am running a nitrous cam in it.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
Well what about the installation of the rotating assembly? What will need done to the block to make everything work. I would like to be able to assemble it myself. It should be the same concept of a sbc right?
You would get exactly what one the guys said....marginal hp increAse with 383 BUT all kinds of extra torque which is the benefit bc you can go as big as want on the cam to get the hp up and still have plenty of tq left in your lower rpm range...
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Katy, TX
Basically it is a direct bolt-in.
While you have the block apart, however, you may or may not choose to (or need to) do some of the following machining:
deck surfacing to achieve your target deck height
cylinder bore honing
main bore honing (with ARP studs)
All 3 of the above should cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $600-$700 at a reputable shop.
After that, the tooling and instrumentation needed to put it all back together can get pricey, depending on how detailed you want to get with checking clearances, and what quality of tooling you choose to buy.
Here is a list of what I'm planning to give you an idea on cost:
Mitutoyo 2-3" micrometer - $121
Mitutoyo 3-4" micrometer - $136
Mitutoyo .0001 dial indicator - $161
Snap-on 3/8" 100 lb-ft torque wrench - $280
Generic dial bore gauge set - $50
Generic Rod bolt stretch gauge - $60
ARP tapered piston ring compressor - $52
Generic piston ring expander - $10
Generic manual piston ring filer - $50
You may have some of this tooling already, but if you're like me and starting from scratch, its cheaper to buy an assembled short block from a vendor.
While you have the block apart, however, you may or may not choose to (or need to) do some of the following machining:
deck surfacing to achieve your target deck height
cylinder bore honing
main bore honing (with ARP studs)
All 3 of the above should cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $600-$700 at a reputable shop.
After that, the tooling and instrumentation needed to put it all back together can get pricey, depending on how detailed you want to get with checking clearances, and what quality of tooling you choose to buy.
Here is a list of what I'm planning to give you an idea on cost:
Mitutoyo 2-3" micrometer - $121
Mitutoyo 3-4" micrometer - $136
Mitutoyo .0001 dial indicator - $161
Snap-on 3/8" 100 lb-ft torque wrench - $280
Generic dial bore gauge set - $50
Generic Rod bolt stretch gauge - $60
ARP tapered piston ring compressor - $52
Generic piston ring expander - $10
Generic manual piston ring filer - $50
You may have some of this tooling already, but if you're like me and starting from scratch, its cheaper to buy an assembled short block from a vendor.
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Yea I am in the same boat tool wise and since I plan on building LS engine for the rest of my life I find it easy to validate buying the neccesary Tools to get the job done right rather than leaving the motor's life in the hands of plastigage! Professional engine builders, I mean best in the world builders would never in a thousand years put together an engine without the proper tooling...
So I prob agree that a sponsor shortblock would def be the cheaper route money wise, Plus you get the satisfaction of having a warranty and knowing the person who put the engine together has built a bunch before and after yours...
BUT if you wanna leave yourself room to grow power wise the 408 is king!
So I prob agree that a sponsor shortblock would def be the cheaper route money wise, Plus you get the satisfaction of having a warranty and knowing the person who put the engine together has built a bunch before and after yours...
BUT if you wanna leave yourself room to grow power wise the 408 is king!
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
I want the most power I can get from adding a bottom end but I don't want to end up with a crappy set up running the 215s instead of something like a 227. If a 408 would be the better choice for a bottem end and still be able to run my heads and cam that I have then that would be the way I go. I just don't want to put one engine in and then say oh I should have put this engine in. Will these short blocks be just as reliable as what the original was? I don't want a engine with a 25k mile lifespan either. Will the added weight of the iron block make any difference?
Give us a call, we can do up a short-block for you, or we can build you a rotating assembly for your block. We have tons of options available for short-blocks & I can promise you NOBODY in the LS world has the block machining technology that is right here @ TSP.
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
