Help! I need more power, but cheap
03-23-2004, 06:59 AM
#41
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Since you are pretty new to this, you should probably stick to the simple stuff first.
I agree that you should get an intake lid from one of our sponsors. They are all within about 1 hp of each other, so I would just get the cheapest one...it happens to be from Quarter Mile Performance:
https://www.quartermileperformance.c...e=ls1induction
I would only go for the cat-back exhaust at this point. Once you get into headers, you are going to find yourself in a money pit...I have gone through 6 exhaust systems trying to find one that sounds decent with a set of headers. They are loud and obnoxious and they make a horrible raspy sound that really sucks. Stick with the stock manifolds (for now) and y-pipe...and go for the TSP Rumbler cat-back:
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...ProductID=1153
I would also get a torque converter in the 2800-3200 stall range. You drive your car every day....don't make the mistake of buying a torque converter that is meant for use solely on the dragstrip...like a 4000 stall or higher. It wouldn't be that great on the street. I don't where you can find one for $500...they usually run closer to $700 for a good one. Read about them here under the "transmission" section.
http://www.tbyrnemotorsports.com/ls1catalog.html
Now your problem will be traction. Invest in a decent set of lower control arms for the rear-end. BMR is inexpensive and makes decent parts...they aren't good for road racing, but are fine for drag racing:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...tm#controlarms
Drag radials are great for A4 cars because they don't shock the rear-end like and M6 car does...so invest in a set of Nitto drag radials:
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...odeIndex=40133
All of the above items total about $1525 shipped to your door. Installation is NOT included in any of the above items, so I hope you are capable of doing the torque converter in your driveway...that will be a bitch.
With the money left over you can pay to have the PCM dyno tuned with LS1 Edit or VCM Suite or whatever to maximize your power output and change things like shift firmness, shift rpm, etc, etc.
Don't forget to do all the free mods! :
http://www.ls1.com/index_faq.html#105
Later
I agree that you should get an intake lid from one of our sponsors. They are all within about 1 hp of each other, so I would just get the cheapest one...it happens to be from Quarter Mile Performance:
https://www.quartermileperformance.c...e=ls1induction
I would only go for the cat-back exhaust at this point. Once you get into headers, you are going to find yourself in a money pit...I have gone through 6 exhaust systems trying to find one that sounds decent with a set of headers. They are loud and obnoxious and they make a horrible raspy sound that really sucks. Stick with the stock manifolds (for now) and y-pipe...and go for the TSP Rumbler cat-back:
http://www.texas-speed.com/item_deta...ProductID=1153
I would also get a torque converter in the 2800-3200 stall range. You drive your car every day....don't make the mistake of buying a torque converter that is meant for use solely on the dragstrip...like a 4000 stall or higher. It wouldn't be that great on the street. I don't where you can find one for $500...they usually run closer to $700 for a good one. Read about them here under the "transmission" section.
http://www.tbyrnemotorsports.com/ls1catalog.html
Now your problem will be traction. Invest in a decent set of lower control arms for the rear-end. BMR is inexpensive and makes decent parts...they aren't good for road racing, but are fine for drag racing:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...tm#controlarms
Drag radials are great for A4 cars because they don't shock the rear-end like and M6 car does...so invest in a set of Nitto drag radials:
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...odeIndex=40133
All of the above items total about $1525 shipped to your door. Installation is NOT included in any of the above items, so I hope you are capable of doing the torque converter in your driveway...that will be a bitch.
With the money left over you can pay to have the PCM dyno tuned with LS1 Edit or VCM Suite or whatever to maximize your power output and change things like shift firmness, shift rpm, etc, etc.
Don't forget to do all the free mods! :
http://www.ls1.com/index_faq.html#105
Later
03-23-2004, 06:19 PM
#42
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ive looked at converters in the TCI website and i have no idea which one to pick, its all so confusing! what about the whole slp exhaust, LT's into a loudmouth? i want loud, but i want a sexy loud. any good?
03-23-2004, 08:13 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
Yep he really knows what he is doing lol Check out this post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/150077-help-me-make-10-sec-et.html
Post up when you get those 8's buddy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/150077-help-me-make-10-sec-et.html
Post up when you get those 8's buddy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/151186-427-stroker-if-you-got-one-whats-your-et.html
Scroll down a bit for his original post.
Also, I need to make sure I pick up one of those special LG Mafs
I hear they work really well.
03-23-2004, 08:51 PM
#44
HAAHAA Tony owned him, dude must have more money than brains.
I gotta love his 6 tenths 125hp NAWWSS hit.
God of thunder, NOBRKSS basically outlined everything I listed. Oh well you can only help out so much.
BTW shouldn't this be posted in the new members section? Nothing Internal in this one.
I gotta love his 6 tenths 125hp NAWWSS hit.
NOS dry kit 125 shot hooked up to the ram air underneeth air lid
im currently running 12.19 E.T.(fastest time) on motor with a 1.65 60' and
11.59 E.T. (fastest time) on nos with a 1.59 60' im about to add the following parts:
im currently running 12.19 E.T.(fastest time) on motor with a 1.65 60' and
11.59 E.T. (fastest time) on nos with a 1.59 60' im about to add the following parts:
God of thunder, NOBRKSS basically outlined everything I listed. Oh well you can only help out so much.
BTW shouldn't this be posted in the new members section? Nothing Internal in this one.
03-23-2004, 11:56 PM
#45
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sorry, im new to posting stuff too, so i wasnt sure. i really dont even remember going into here to post. kinda weird. just curious, is 285 cfm pretty good airflow for some heads? what is the best thing i can do for added low end torque? im looking at buying some katech stage 1 heads for a pretty reasonable price, but want to make sure they are worth it. would i be able to have these ported, polished, and milled? would i want to raise the rocker ratio? what size cam would go well with these? thanks
03-26-2004, 10:35 AM
#46
Ok first off I'm not bashing you in anyway so don't take offense to anything I post Just concerned and looking out for another LS1 tech member/F-body fan.
First off, you are 17, just purchased a 99 TA (good choice btw as I have one as well) and wanting to go faster. That's cool and all. And already bone stock at least 300 on the wheels, yea still impressive to everything else that's on the road these days stock. That alone assures you mid 13s on street tires. I ran a 13.6 when it was bone stock.
But, the concern. . .do things in stages. Don't shell out to make 400 - 500 rwhp and drive it once and end up wrapping it around a tree or worse. Do it in stages. . .drive it and get use to the new feel. . then modifiy it again.
This is the things I've done to my car already. . so far no problems at all with anything and shaved off 8 tenths of a second from my stock times
All the free mods from ls1tech and ls1.com.
Raised airbox by 1/4 inch
SLP Air Lid with K & N Air Filter
SLP 85mm MAF
SLP Smooth Bellows (go to home depot as these are a waste of money, but learned after the fact hehe)
Hooker Cat-back Exhaust
TCI Super Street fighter 3500 stall converter
3.73 gears
B & M tranny cooler
ASP Under-drive pulley
BMR Lower control arms with relocation brackets
LS1 Edit and dyno tuned by Delk Performance.
I spent pretty close to what you are looking for. Actually went over with the dyno tuning and LS1 Edit but it was needed. I'm basically 320 at the wheels due to the drivetrain loss the stall and gear combo brought, however off the line racing, it really boosted my car's performance. And the acceleration on top is still really good.
The next things I am looking at is a LS6 intake manifold and probably shoot for Pacesetter LT headers since they are a cheap knock off of the Hookers.
Hope that helps and good luck to you. And BE careful!!
and btw if you do upgrade your stall. . . drive it around for awhile before you start doing any racing. You'll need to get used to how it operates, etc. As on street tires. . .you punch it off the line, only thing you'll see is the car leaving you while you put up a nice smokey burnout hehehe. You'll just sit there and spin hehe. But if you hook. . . .the oh poop meter kicks in hehe
Just concerned and looking out for another LS1 tech member/F-body fan.First off, you are 17, just purchased a 99 TA (good choice btw as I have one as well) and wanting to go faster. That's cool and all. And already bone stock at least 300 on the wheels, yea still impressive to everything else that's on the road these days stock. That alone assures you mid 13s on street tires. I ran a 13.6 when it was bone stock.
But, the concern. . .do things in stages. Don't shell out to make 400 - 500 rwhp and drive it once and end up wrapping it around a tree or worse. Do it in stages. . .drive it and get use to the new feel. . then modifiy it again.
This is the things I've done to my car already. . so far no problems at all with anything and shaved off 8 tenths of a second from my stock times
All the free mods from ls1tech and ls1.com.
Raised airbox by 1/4 inch
SLP Air Lid with K & N Air Filter
SLP 85mm MAF
SLP Smooth Bellows (go to home depot as these are a waste of money, but learned after the fact hehe)
Hooker Cat-back Exhaust
TCI Super Street fighter 3500 stall converter
3.73 gears
B & M tranny cooler
ASP Under-drive pulley
BMR Lower control arms with relocation brackets
LS1 Edit and dyno tuned by Delk Performance.
I spent pretty close to what you are looking for. Actually went over with the dyno tuning and LS1 Edit but it was needed. I'm basically 320 at the wheels due to the drivetrain loss the stall and gear combo brought, however off the line racing, it really boosted my car's performance. And the acceleration on top is still really good.
The next things I am looking at is a LS6 intake manifold and probably shoot for Pacesetter LT headers since they are a cheap knock off of the Hookers.
Hope that helps and good luck to you. And BE careful!!
and btw if you do upgrade your stall. . . drive it around for awhile before you start doing any racing. You'll need to get used to how it operates, etc. As on street tires. . .you punch it off the line, only thing you'll see is the car leaving you while you put up a nice smokey burnout hehehe. You'll just sit there and spin hehe. But if you hook. . . .the oh poop meter kicks in
hehe 
03-26-2004, 04:39 PM
#48
11 Second Club
ya man when i was 17 i was lucky i had a thirdgen trans am
it was fast for me then and i did some work to it and made it faster
it got a lil beat up but it was my first car and i still have it
when i was 19 and had a good job a bought the brand new 2002 and its awsome
ya i agree do some small stuff first
it was fast for me then and i did some work to it and made it faster
it got a lil beat up but it was my first car and i still have it
when i was 19 and had a good job a bought the brand new 2002 and its awsome
ya i agree do some small stuff first
03-27-2004, 01:33 AM
#50
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yeah, as much as i hate to admit it, you guys are probably right. i should probably start slow, (sigh) with the simple stuff and move up from there. thanks for the replys!
