Colonel

"Experts recommend minimum 42# injectors for a 600hp NA LS1 but preferable 57#s so they are not anywhere near their limit. Can someone tune them? Not 30#SVO."

SVO 30s (which are more like 36s at 58 psi) are fine (I didn't say optimum) for most strokers. In fact, many people run stock 28s (28s at 58 psi) with no problems but this is really pushing the limits.

SAM98WS6

Diamond piston sticks out of the decked block .005...so that gives .038 piston to head clearance with .043 cometic head gasket.

stealth

If "they" told you "everything" in advance, no one ever build a high horsepower motor or car. The pain and suffering is just too great.

SAM98WS6

Holy crap could I add a bunch more to this list..
Like the March balancer that wouldnt go on straight the last 1/2 inch...took hours and hours..
Z06 PCV assy is $70...valve and some hose...get freakin real..
Comp 1.75 rockers require valve cover clearancing..bosses machined and tray removed.
Dont put balancer on less then .150"...(.170-.090" GM range)...any closer and you hit the oil pump with a double roller..
Got 30psi oil pressure with starter priming
Kooks headers fit like a dream

Bottom line...car is already to fire up and no 90mm TB...been waiting for a month...tell me cars dont suck.

I'll have dyno numbers as soon as the final piece comes in.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

And to think I wanted to attempt the same thing. No thanks. Not until Uncle Sam lets me retire like Recklass, only 5 more years! Thanks for sharing your learning curve.

Charlie

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

The stock gaskets are best reused and so are the bolts. Most header bolts that come with headers are too short.

DenzSS

It really isn't that bad. I went through some of the same.

Welcome to the world of high performance.

SStroked 410

thanks for the heads up
I am also building a stroker at home with some friends but having a machine shop put together the shortblock and degree the cam.

What was the size of the pistons from Diamond.. dish or dome?

I am trying to keep it simple and after reading some of the hasle people have gone through I am gonna go with Comp's OEM lifters, maybe HS rockers since they are like stock but better, comp timing chain so i wont have to play around with that oil pump BS

SAM98WS6

pistons were 3.905 bore...slight dish with valve relief...good for about 11:1 with that head gasket, stroker and 66cc head. Dont know if they make a dome ls1 piston since it sticks out of the block. Check their website...they only have one 3.905 bore piston.

You will have the oil pump BS with any double roller because you have to space it out.

Make sure the shop holds the crank forward when the torque the mains (per the GM manual). And of course they are competent enough to degree a cam. Good luck..I wasnt going to trust anyone..looking back I would get one from one of the big names..MTI, AP Eng, More, Keith Kraft...only.

DenzSS

I went with a 4.030" diamond flat top, 66cc chamber, unshrouded valves. Ended up a bit shy of 12.0:1

horist

damn.. sounds like you're havin lots of probs Glad I had my stroker assembled by a shop heh (though when I did heads/cam myself last year.. i put a double timing chain on. and new oil pump.. didn't have any issues .....)

SStroked 410

I know what you mean, thats why I went with comps single timing chain
I went with custom pistons from Diamond -6cc dish, for 4.040 bore, h-13 tool steal pins which I was told I could throw a 300+ shot on these
with LS6 heads 64cc I think I have about 11.2 compression

ZL1camaro

also strokers arent exactly the best way to make ur motors life a long one. the longer stroke reallly hammers the rod bearings in the upper rpm range.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, if you have built motors in the past, all of this wouldn't be a problem. It sounds like you didn't know what you were getting into. I have several motor builds under my belt and not a single one was a problem. Anything you change from stock you will have to modify the rest that is attached to it. I will be doing a couple of stroker motor in alittle while (1 LS1 & 2 Mopar 318-to-390). Actually, if you have a magazine subscription or two, they talk about stroker builds ALOT.

angst911

we used the comp oe lifters in my motor.. they didn't want to pump up... and 3 were bad out of the box..... so, we are trying the comp oe lifters now. I'll let you know how they work

H82BBad

106 sounds right on your cam if it has 4 degrees of advance ground in it.

427 LS1

iTrader: (10)

I've been putting my 447 and a 427 LS1 together, one thing we have learned from past experience and something that is hardly discussed about Aluminum blocks is that you want to run the mains a little tighter than .0024. After the block expands (remember it's Aluminum not Iron) your oil pressure may be on the low side, just be fore warned. I run #1 main at .0011 to keep it from orbiting and getting beat up, remember this one gets more load from the timing chain. I've taken many stock LS1 motors apart and #1 main is beat on the most usually. The rest of the mains #2-5 I run at .0015 and the rods at .002 any more and your bleeding pressure off there as well. My buddy set up his bearings close to what you have yours set at and he has to run 15-50 on a new motor to make pressure...where do you go from there after it wears a bit? Just something to watch for on these Aluminum Blocks, if it was an iron block the .0024 would be OK because there is far less expansion. Good luck and hope everything works out for you.

VSGLS1

iTrader: (8)

Great info for me too keep in mind when I start my stroker shortly. Keep it coming, I am absorbing this like a sponge!

SAM98WS6

427 LS1 thanks a bunch...thats what I was looking for when I was building it but everyone told me no tighter than .002 and .0025 was fine. DAMN!!! Oh there is alot of work to fix that...

T/A Medic

iTrader: (1)

i had .0025~ clearances on my mains last built motor and i had GREAT psi when it was cold... all nice and high, 60 at idle, soon as everything was up to optemp ... i had 16-18 at idle and no more than 42 at WOT...