Rotating Assembly questions? Can you buy cast rotating assembly?
01-28-2012, 06:14 PM
#21
Hardly the same considering he already has the 5.7l block and does not have a 6.0l block.
Isnt it always amazing how many guys there are with 6.0l on the brain when you can make a very nice amount of power out of a 5.7l. Its very easy to "spend" someone else's money.
6.0l does not equal budget.....checked prices on a junkyard setup lately?
Isnt it always amazing how many guys there are with 6.0l on the brain when you can make a very nice amount of power out of a 5.7l. Its very easy to "spend" someone else's money.
6.0l does not equal budget.....checked prices on a junkyard setup lately?
if he can find a 6.0 block for around 250-300 bucks and sell the LS1 block for 200 ish, your only 50 to 100 bucks deeper in the hole and the power advantage is well worth it.
01-28-2012, 08:59 PM
#22
Staging Lane
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Pistons will be reuseable after a hone, just not after boring. Unless im honing each cylinder for like 20 minutes it'll be fine. Couple quick passes with a ball hone just to get a nice pattern in there and it'll be fine. My crosshatching in the cylinders is all still there anyways I just wanna freshen it up as I'm using new rings. Rods all look fine and I've seen a few cranks in the 200-300 dollar range, so my rebuild really won't be all that bad
01-28-2012, 09:22 PM
#23
it is easy to spend someone elses money, but its also easy to save them money in the long run. a 6.0 block can be had for cheap. usually for bout 100 bucks more than an LS1 block. the purchace of a 6.0 block crank and pistons will net him more (considerably) in the long run esp when it comes time to turn up the volume on it. at this point, all he has good from the LS1 is the block and rods. the pistons probably wont be useable since it will probably need a hone, so either way your stuck buying pistons and a crank. may as well step into a 6.0 block.
if he can find a 6.0 block for around 250-300 bucks and sell the LS1 block for 200 ish, your only 50 to 100 bucks deeper in the hole and the power advantage is well worth it.
if he can find a 6.0 block for around 250-300 bucks and sell the LS1 block for 200 ish, your only 50 to 100 bucks deeper in the hole and the power advantage is well worth it.
Some other folks still dont grasp, that rebuilds usually net the same amount.
I use to machine,assemble resale ls motors for a living for a while. So imo it makes more sense if looking to upgrade. A 6.0 rebuild is hard to beat. The ls1 block will sell if its in good usable condition. I guess i prefer the bigger ci capacity.
Prices for 6.0 blocks now are very reasonble, even summit sells a 4.030 block for a fair pricr. If factor in that the block is ready to build out of the box.
I currently have fs a 6.0 block and crank for 300$
2 longblock 6.0s for 1500$ each.
Not advertising, just a mention of typical 6.0 prices
01-29-2012, 01:16 AM
#24
You have been around ls engines for a while and understand the concept.
Some other folks still dont grasp, that rebuilds usually net the same amount.
I use to machine,assemble resale ls motors for a living for a while. So imo it makes more sense if looking to upgrade. A 6.0 rebuild is hard to beat. The ls1 block will sell if its in good usable condition. I guess i prefer the bigger ci capacity.
Prices for 6.0 blocks now are very reasonble, even summit sells a 4.030 block for a fair pricr. If factor in that the block is ready to build out of the box.
I currently have fs a 6.0 block and crank for 300$
2 longblock 6.0s for 1500$ each.
Not advertising, just a mention of typical 6.0 prices
Some other folks still dont grasp, that rebuilds usually net the same amount.
I use to machine,assemble resale ls motors for a living for a while. So imo it makes more sense if looking to upgrade. A 6.0 rebuild is hard to beat. The ls1 block will sell if its in good usable condition. I guess i prefer the bigger ci capacity.
Prices for 6.0 blocks now are very reasonble, even summit sells a 4.030 block for a fair pricr. If factor in that the block is ready to build out of the box.
I currently have fs a 6.0 block and crank for 300$
2 longblock 6.0s for 1500$ each.
Not advertising, just a mention of typical 6.0 prices
Now if we were drag racing the engine on a track for $$, sponsors, etc...we of course wouldnt be on a budget with a hobby like that and as always "there is no replacement for dispacement".
Reality for me is that i have a son and girlfriend to take care of, house i am rebuilding (fixer upper) with 5 acres and paying off at the same time and have to watch my $$ to pay for my hunting trips and equipment as well and not to mention 3 always hungry German Shepherds to feed.
01-29-2012, 11:51 AM
#26
Staging Lane
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your 100% correct that the 6.0 is the way to go. im just searching around right now and weighing out my options to see what route i wanna go. NemeSS Ill shoot you a PM. Maybe we can work something out..
01-29-2012, 06:02 PM
#28
The metal used for the block doesnt matter imo. Before these ls1 cars, every gm car had iron blocks,including corvettes.
I could care less, if it helps my car make mo powa, im all for it.
01-29-2012, 06:42 PM
#31
No, sadly it is not HOWEVER, if my plans ever work out, it'd have an aluminum 572 sometime in the future. When I built that car, in the mid-80's, aluminum big blocks were pretty unavailable. World makes a very good aluminum big block these days.
My point is about the weight added to the car when going to an iron block motor. It adds about 80 pounds. It's best to remove weight from the front end, not add weight.
My point is about the weight added to the car when going to an iron block motor. It adds about 80 pounds. It's best to remove weight from the front end, not add weight.
01-29-2012, 08:00 PM
#33
To each his own I guess.
