head bolt pop sound
02-14-2012, 09:41 AM
#42
Okay. If it is the head bolt hole closest to back of the block, the hole may be the result of a hole on the back of the block (e.g. bellhousing bolt) being drilled too deep at the factory). When that happens the over-drilled hole can intersect with the head bolt hole. (I encountered this once on a block after the head bolts had been removed while blowing compressed air into the head bolt hole.) If this is the case you do not necessarily have a problem.
02-15-2012, 08:38 AM
#44
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Got the heads back together. I put some sealent on the end on the bolt that had the blown hole. and everything torqued down as it should. so i should be able to put it back in and start it soon. in crossing my fingers.
02-15-2012, 09:38 AM
#45
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When you poured water in it, did the water drain out of the block? If so where did it come from? Like a couple have stated, the worst that can happen is you put it back together and it leaks somewhere. No need to buy another block until you know this one is FUBAR'd.
And whoever asked about reusing the stock head bolts, NO!!! Do not ever reuse torque to yield bolts, hell I NEVER reuse head or main bolts, or usually any bolt with more than 80ft-lbs. on it. Bolts aren't real cheap but cheap enough to not risk it, replace them, and recycle.
And whoever asked about reusing the stock head bolts, NO!!! Do not ever reuse torque to yield bolts, hell I NEVER reuse head or main bolts, or usually any bolt with more than 80ft-lbs. on it. Bolts aren't real cheap but cheap enough to not risk it, replace them, and recycle.
02-15-2012, 10:36 AM
#46
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Th water drained Into the crank case so I guess its in the oil own now. ima drop the pan and see if the metal is in there and get it out. is there anything I should know about dropping the pan. as far as getting it back on?
02-17-2012, 11:14 PM
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i took the bellhousing off my t56 to line up my oil pan. I wouldnt just trust the bolts going into the front and rear covers as there is enough wiggle room.... besides all the bolts that go into the block would do the same thing anyways.
the alignment is critical because when you tighten the bellhousing bolts.. You better make sure the pan is flush against the bellhousing or when you torque the bolts your going to break the pan.
the alignment is critical because when you tighten the bellhousing bolts.. You better make sure the pan is flush against the bellhousing or when you torque the bolts your going to break the pan.
03-03-2012, 10:01 PM
#60
flippin camaro? wasnt the cars fault 
i remember on my first head swap in the car i took tons of time blowing the holes out and even stuffing paper towels down into the holes to make sure there is no coolant.. however when i started tightening the bolts some of them i could feel getting spongy with a couple threads left. Pulled them out and there was still a tiny bit of coolant. You need to go slow and have a feel for it.
Also depending on where it cracked you may be able to use it still.. if it doesnt leak outside the block and doesnt leak into a oil galley you could probably throw some sealant on the bolt and it MIGHT actually be alright.
i remember on my first head swap in the car i took tons of time blowing the holes out and even stuffing paper towels down into the holes to make sure there is no coolant.. however when i started tightening the bolts some of them i could feel getting spongy with a couple threads left. Pulled them out and there was still a tiny bit of coolant. You need to go slow and have a feel for it.
Also depending on where it cracked you may be able to use it still.. if it doesnt leak outside the block and doesnt leak into a oil galley you could probably throw some sealant on the bolt and it MIGHT actually be alright.
You may, or may not have a problem. It is not uncommon, perhaps even normal, to hear popping when torquing the head bolts. It is particularly likely when using ARP head bolts. As others have said however, if there is residual coolant at the bottom of the holes you can crack the block. Unless there is a lot of residual coolant you would not hear that pop until the last few threads. Finally, having the coolant drain quickly from the holes is not conclusive evidence that you have cracked the block because there are instances in which the head bolt holes can intersect with holes drilled horizonally from the back of the block.
See also:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...blem-help.html
See also:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...blem-help.html
A lot of people are also not good at making sure the head is fully seated over the dowels too...those dowels should be replaced as they're so easy to deform when you pulled the heads off...if they're not allowing the head to seat on the block really well, then there will be noises when torquing the bolts.
Please be more thorough cleaning your head bolt holes...I've never heard any noise at all when bolting down heads any of the times I have.