Well the sound stopped. I have no clue however, i have an awesome rear main leak. So royal purple is no longer in the motor for break in. Will be changing the fluids once i pull the trans back down. FML....I think the sound was coming from air in the fuel rails. It would pop from no detonation. I now have a rack and pinion leak, rear main leak, squeaky tensioner pulley, and a rear diff. leak. YAY...FML once more! I didnt touch the ECM. I have a cam from SLP that was what they put in the Firehawks. It was stock in my motor so I am still using it.

 

sounds like the loose ends caught up to ya.
let us know how it worked out
Good Luck

 

Damn. As a Master Tech, my answer was D. None of the above. Not a common bottom or top end noise although tough call over a You-Tube vid. Glad it worked out. Not the easiest engines to dig out.

 

One of the issues I was having, is that my tensioner pulley was old and I finally placed my ear on it while running. That eliminated some of the sounds. I also have a power steering leak from my rack and pinion. So that dosnt help with the sounds either. But I had an oil leak and I sent it to the shop because I thought it was a rear main and I didnt want to go through the hassle of a trans removal, and install by myself again. The dealership said it wasnt my rear main, but my oil pressure sensor on the back of the block. They were going to charge me $700+ to fix. I went up there and fixed it with teflon tape and saved a few bucks. Now I have to hear them tell me its going to be another 700 to fix the power steering.....

Does anyone have a new rack and pinion they can part with? I have a set of 853 heads for trade.

 

You can get a reman from autozone for 2-300 bucks plus core. Msrp is $400 but my cost is $200 we usually sell them for around 300

 

If you did everything before why is it at the dealership.

 

It went to the dealership for the rear main seal that I thought was the issue. I wasnt going to do it again by myself. But it turned out not to be that. I am going to let the dealership do a 100% inspection to make sure I didnt miss anything. Then get it under a new warranty. I will pay for it but at least I dont have a 800 payment on a payed off vehicle.

 

I finally figured out the stupid sopund. It was coming from that thing that connects to the exhaust then runs back to the air intake. It mounts to the left side of the motor on the head. I dont know what its called but I know its for emmissions. But there was an exhaust leak comming from it. Is there a way to remove all that unwanted crap?

 

Do you have stock exhaust manifolds or Longtubes??... but short answer is yes you can delete the EGR and AIR setup.

You will need to block off the hole in your intake manifold and corresponding plate for the exhaust mani..

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/98...sssteel-2.aspx

 

I have long tubes. So I will have to make two block off plates and thats it? I thought there was more to it. What about the other flange that comes off both long tubes? Can you delete that as well or is that for something else?

 

You could probably get most of this from the hardware store (was just trying to give you an idea with those links). When I did my brothers car, just bought a small sheet of steel, some fastners and an expansion plug 1 5/8" for intake manifold, cut my own block off plates for the exhaust manifolds. That other one is for you AIR and yes that can be deleted as well, you can remove all the plumbing and air pump. This really cleans up the engine bay and makes plug swaps easier! You will need to have someone tune this out of your PCM, or you will throw codes. Was the car tuned for the LTs and or other mods? There is a chance that **** is already turned off.

Expansion plug

 

No I don't think it has been tuned once. Right now all that I know thats on it is long tubes, a cam that i dont know where it came from and the newer ls1 heads. i think 217's instead of the 638's. i think thats the right numbers. i havent looked at my car in a while. but it is only 10 cc more than the 638's.