I'm building a LS1, it's going in a 1991 GMC Sonoma ext. cab. that I would like to DD. 2000 LS1 block, 5.3 crank and rods(but questions to follow about that later), Mahle Power Pak or Probe FPS pistons, TR228 cam/MS3?, 862 heads, ported, polished and bigger intake valves, at the very least LS6 intake this will be judged at time of purchase as to whatever money allows, would prefer a FAST 90/90. Tranny will be 4L60E, typical upgrades, most likely a Ford 8.8 rearend.
Questions:
I'm looking for 400-450rwhp, anywhere in that area I will be happy. The 5.3 I'm pulling the crank out of broke a rod while cranking, I'm guessing a leaky injector caused the #3 cylinder to hydrolock and break the rod, should I be worried about the crank having damage? I have been looking around online and I can find H-Beams with 6.100 length for $350-450.
Rockers: I have seen these Scorpion RR's being advertised and sold a few places, what's the opinion on them? Anyone with experience with them? Or just do a Comp trunion upgrade on the stockers?
Stall: What's the smallest stall I can run with these cams? I'd like to go as low as possible to keep MPG as high as possible, this will be a street motor but I'd like to daily drive it.
Are my cam choices good choices or should I look at something else? Not devoted to TSP.
See any problems with my plan? What's your opinions? What would you change? I'd like a T56 but I am doing this on a budget of sorts. Throw me to the wolves if need be, only way to learn is ask questions and put your proposal on the table for other people to critique and perfect. Nitrous is a desired add-on in the future.

 

No one?

 

There's some stuff in there thats budget build and then some stuff that I deem unnecessary for a 450 RWHP build (FAST and Scorpions).

I guess I don't know why you'd want to de-stroke the LS1 and I don't follow why you'd want a 6.1" rod? Is that due to the 5.3 crank? Are the pistons you're looking at made for a 6.1 rod? What compression ratio will you end up with?

you'll obviously need to balance the crank to the new pistons and rods so I would have the machine shop magnaflux it and check it for straightness before hand.

 

If you're really on a budget, here's what I would do. This is your best bang-for-the-buck:

Find a 5.3 truck engine pull-out (check car-part.com) and start with that. Don't build the bottom end - it's really not necessary for that power level. You can for "peace of mind" if you want to but it's really not worth it. (Ask me how I know - I made that mistake already and spent a bunch of cash on a shortblock I really didn't need.) All your power is made above the shortblock anyway, so put your money into heads, valvetrain, cam, intake, etc.

Try to find a 5.3L that was built *I think* in 2005 or later. These engines had heads with larger intake valve (2.00" vs 1.89") and can be identified by either 799 or 243 stamped on the head. A 2.00" valve will be plenty. If you want to rev higher, spend the money on a cam, pushrods and valvesprings. If you want, you can also buy any old 5.3L and buy a set of performance heads that come with all the good stuff anyway. It all depends on what your budget allows.

An LS6 intake will give you a lot of bang for the buck, and I know for sure you get to use a less-expensive stock fuel rail setup. You'll probably also need injectors and a tune because the truck injectors won't work. You may need to modify your wiring harness to accept the new injectors, or you will need to buy adapters. (I do not know what HP the stock truck manifold is rated to, or much about the FAST intake.)

That's my opinion. Don't break the bank on the bottom end. All it does is hold the show together, and the stock shortblock is good at that. All the power is made in the heads, cam, intake, etc. The 5.3L can be bought at a very reasonable price. If you're really aching to break into the bottom end, some guys change out the rod bolts, which can be done without taking out the pistons. Again, check car-part.com - they're the real deal when it comes to finding salvage yards that are very price competitive.

 

To 5 liter eater...

All ls engines except the 4.8, and ls7 use the Same stroke. Essentially the Same cranks as well with the exception of longer length flywheel flanges on early 6.0 cranks and gun drilled mains on ls1, 2...etc

6.098 is the stock rod length and a 6.100 is what nearly all aftermarket rods come in.

These are very universal engines compared to most.

 

Ok some useful info here. I have been rethinking my whole build idea today, it spiraled WAY out of control, so here is my main question. Should I worry about the rods seeing as how the one broke, but I believe it was a hydrolock, the rod broke on start up, it did no damage to the engine at all, I personally know the guy who had the engine and he told me the full story and said the cylinder still had a small fuel puddle in it when he pulled the head off. The 5.3 is a parts engine, the LS1 is bare except for main caps but thats what's going in the truck, not the 5.3. I'm going to rob the 5.3 of valley, front, and rear covers, heads(the 862's will be fine with a portjob and bigger valves i believe), small stuff that I need. I am most likely going to stick with a LS6 intake. Give me your opinions on these stock rods, do you think they will be ok?
Hyper flat-tops will suffice or should I go forged? I'm shooting for 10.5:1 compression with this engine, maybe a little higher. I don't mind dropping $1100 on having the heads worked by Ai if I can get my costs down on this thing. I forgot the key rule, "great heads are the key to a great engine." While these may not be the best Ai can evidently work some mad magic on them according to their website, coupled with a cam to compliment them and a good valvetrain with a mainly stock bottom end I think I can hit my goal easily even without the nitrous. I'm still kinda new to this, I don't want someone to give a blueprint and say build it but, I like the opinions and help here guys. Thanks!

 

Stock rods are beyond capable of doing what you need. The forces applied during a hydraulic condition are way beyond what you will see under normal operating conditions.

 

I would still have them checked out to make sure none of the other ones are bent.

 

Ok, for pistons. I'm looking around and hyper's are just as pricey as forged are. Where can I find something close to stock for a decent price or is that not going to happen? My bore is honed to 3.905 and it will probably need a finish bore so I'm guessing 3.907?
Probe: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PBP-P2600F-003/
Speed-Pro: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-L2621F25MM/
Now the only issue I see off hand is the pin diameter is .945, is that going to work? What kind of compression are these pistons going to push me up to if I ran 61cc combustion chambers, stock rods, crank, and a stock thickness headgasket? I don't know how to figure that, someone have a formula, feed a man info. and he will know once. Feed the man the formula and he can figure it out himself and stop asking questions, lol.

 

I have a complete set of 5.3 rods and pistons if you want to build the 5.3.

 

No I already have a complete 5.3 from oilpan to intake, but thanks though.

 

If you're going to build the whole short block, and you have a questionable crank, have you ever thought about building a stroker? Stock stroke is about 3.62", right? I am pretty sure there are two other stroker cranks out there... I know the 4" is popular, and there's also a 3.9" stroke or something like that.

You might wince at the extra cash now, but by the time you're done with your build, it will just be another drop in the bucket.

I know Probe has LS1 rotating assembly kits... pistons, rods, wrist pins, rings, bearings, and a 3.9" crank - all for about $2,000. (Can't post the link because it's non-sponsor.)

Also, if you had a stroker, you could probably stay with the stock truck intake and still hit your 450hp goal. That would save you 1) the cost of the LS6 intake, and 2) all the trouble that comes with making your truck accessories work with a car (LS6) intake.

FAST also makes a truck intake.

 

OK, I didn't realize it was just a bore difference to make the 5.3, I'm a dummy. But I disagree about the 6.100 rod length. The vast majority of the aftermarket rods are 6.125". Not that 6.100" cannot be found. And it's even harder to find a piston that has a wrist pin placement based on a stock 6.100" rod. They are almost all based on the 6.125" rod.

 

You use a stock location piston for the 6.100 I believe, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

You're right. It's just that aftermarket pistons designed for a 6.100" rod are not plentiful.

 

That's what I'm saying, I don't think they make pistons for the 6.100, I believe you use a stock design piston with them.

 

I agree with what the other guy said...use the stock shortblock and spend your money where it counts (heads, cam, intake)...I bought 200k mile aluminum 5.3 for next to nothing, but considering it's going to cost 700+ to rebuild I wish I would of just got a sub 100k mile shortblock...bc rebuilding engine is very possible it musts leaves more chances for error...use the stock shortblock and build the top...ls6 intake def has bang for buck and u less you will run a rowdy *** cam you shouldn't need the trunnions upgrade...good luck man

 

Right, so when you said "I can find H-Beams with 6.100 length for $350-450" and were talking about Probe or Mahle pistons I was

 

Its cool i miss read your post about the 5.3 with the broken rod.

 

There are plenty of aftermarket pistons for 6.100 rods...just as many as for 6.125 rods. And what I ment by "nearly all" meaning all aftermarket rods in stock length come as a 6.100 length as opposed to 6.098.