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Stock piston removal cracking.....

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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
Here's how I did it.

[IMG][/IMG]
Lol! Did you break any pressing them that way?
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #22  
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Highly doubt it. All the force is perpendicular to the pin boss itself. It's when it is loaded crooked across the ring lands or on the skirt any is when they bust. The pin boss is generally one of the strongest if not the strongest part of the piston.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mcfarlnd
Lol! Did you break any pressing them that way?
nope.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 04:12 PM
  #24  
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Just got ack from picking them up. Sorry for the crappy pics. used the IPad because it is simple to upload them to photobucket.

They somehow gouged the underside of the piston as well. Bottom right of pic and top center(shiny spots)


Same piston. Cracked right underneath the pin boss.


As for the second piston, I can't find another with a crack....... They didn't mark the ones that are bad. This one was obvious.

Looking for another machine shop to finish the job. Recommendations greatly appreciated.... In Ventura county, Point Mugu.
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Old Feb 18, 2012 | 04:57 AM
  #25  
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The best tool for the job would be the professional rod piston pin remove/install tool which uses (I believe) 2 torches to heat the rod quickly so as to not melt aluminum pistons and the correct adaptor and it's a done deal ,,,,,,and You don't want to overheat the rod as You will weaken it .
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:21 PM
  #26  
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HHAHAHA I completely thought i invented that technique a couple weeks ago while building my 388. and yes cracks happen easily and often while removing the wrist pin from a used motor reason being the aluminum has been cooked and cooled so many times it becomes very brittle. Now cracking a new one putting one in shoiuldnt happen but i blame that on my spark plug socket technique
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