Lifter preload & pushrod length?
#22
8 Second Club
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I'd just like to add one thing.
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".
So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.
Ron
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".
So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.
Ron
#23
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I'd just like to add one thing.
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".
So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.
Ron
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".
So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.
Ron
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#24
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Yep, well now we know. At least for the GM MLS gaskets.
Sometimes I don't think ahead real well.
My PTV is now at .075" if the measurements track. A little scary, but as long as I don't float the valves, will be ok. Glad I have an auto trans. I am tempted to remeasure.
Of course, it will grow with thermal expansion which should be in the neighborhood of .010".
discussed this all with my builder and he said .050 is the absolute min with good valve control. He wasn't concerned at all with .070". However, he did say to run .050 or less preload just in case.
The plot thickens eh?
Ron
Sometimes I don't think ahead real well.
My PTV is now at .075" if the measurements track. A little scary, but as long as I don't float the valves, will be ok. Glad I have an auto trans. I am tempted to remeasure.
Of course, it will grow with thermal expansion which should be in the neighborhood of .010".
discussed this all with my builder and he said .050 is the absolute min with good valve control. He wasn't concerned at all with .070". However, he did say to run .050 or less preload just in case.
The plot thickens eh?
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; 03-23-2012 at 06:11 PM.
#27
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This is good info. I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but is it possible to get the the swipe pattern with the heads on and still use the springs that came with the heads, with the pushrods in as well. I've read vettenuts write up but he had his on a 2x4 and changed the springs on his. Good write up BTW.
#28
TECH Senior Member
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This is good info. I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but is it possible to get the the swipe pattern with the heads on and still use the springs that came with the heads, with the pushrods in as well. I've read vettenuts write up but he had his on a 2x4 and changed the springs on his. Good write up BTW.
#29
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I see I'm a little ify on removing the valave spring and placing a check spring for I've never done that before. I don't want ruin my AFR's. But say I get past that. what check spring would you recommend and what tool would you recommend to remove the valve spring?
#31
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For the checker spring you can go to Lowes or Home Depot in the hardware section....they have a few different sizes so you went to get one about 3/4-1" across and 3" tall. You can almost fully compress them with your fingers and are only a couple of dollars.....I've also used a spring off an R/C car shock.
As for taking the springs off the cables with the heads installed there are a few different types of valvespring compressors to chose from...just do a quick search for "on motor valvespring compressor"
You will also need a pen magnet and either use tdc to let the valve sit on the piston face, or the method o prefer is air compressor hooked up to a hose and screwed into the spark plug hole.
As for taking the springs off the cables with the heads installed there are a few different types of valvespring compressors to chose from...just do a quick search for "on motor valvespring compressor"
You will also need a pen magnet and either use tdc to let the valve sit on the piston face, or the method o prefer is air compressor hooked up to a hose and screwed into the spark plug hole.
#32
8 Second Club
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actually.. you can get an actual check spring from just about any auto parts store...
you can use your seat and retainer and locks...
2 pack is around $7-$8
Either use the TDC method to hold the valve up while changing the spring, or use an air compressor(which works great)...the pen magnet method is not very reliable..
you can use your seat and retainer and locks...
2 pack is around $7-$8
Either use the TDC method to hold the valve up while changing the spring, or use an air compressor(which works great)...the pen magnet method is not very reliable..
#34
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Lol guess I should have said use the pen magnet to pull the locks out or if you drop one......I didn't even think of using the pen magnet to hold the valve up....I prefer compressed air personally
#35
TECH Senior Member
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Try TDC method, fail proof, valve can only drop so far till hits piston at TDC.
#36
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The intake is off the car so removing the heads isn't a big deal. I more than likely gonna go that route I just need to get valve check springs and a valve spring compressor. I don't think Autozone or Oreily's has them. anyhow Thanks again.
#39
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The one I saw at Autozone was the claw type. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get one for LS1's. The guys at at Orileys and autozone didn't have any check springs. Homedepot had some low tension springs but I don't they fit the diameter that is needed. Anyhow gonna check out some sponsors and see what they got.