Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Lifter preload & pushrod length?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-23-2012, 02:25 PM
  #21  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Carlisle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ft. Campbell, KY/TN
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dr_whigham
Thanks guys. And yes, vettenuts, I've read your threads. AWESOME posts, BTW.

Apologies to the OP. Thanks again.
No worries, that's what the thread is for , and ya, vettenuts knows his stuff. Ron's thread was informative too.

Appreciate the help all.

C.
Old 03-23-2012, 03:47 PM
  #22  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
 
RonSSNova's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,600
Received 700 Likes on 441 Posts

Default

I'd just like to add one thing.
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".
So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.

Ron
Old 03-23-2012, 05:28 PM
  #23  
TECH Regular
 
ZeeOSix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I'd just like to add one thing.
I re-measured after I torqued my heads in place with the GM MLS gaskets.
The pushrod length at 0 lash shortened by .020".

So it would be good to have a used gasket of the type you plan to use for mock up work.
Ditto for PTV measurements.

Ron
I wondered and about that very thing back in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16071340-post23.html
Old 03-23-2012, 06:06 PM
  #24  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
 
RonSSNova's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,600
Received 700 Likes on 441 Posts

Default

Yep, well now we know. At least for the GM MLS gaskets.
Sometimes I don't think ahead real well.

My PTV is now at .075" if the measurements track. A little scary, but as long as I don't float the valves, will be ok. Glad I have an auto trans. I am tempted to remeasure.
Of course, it will grow with thermal expansion which should be in the neighborhood of .010".

discussed this all with my builder and he said .050 is the absolute min with good valve control. He wasn't concerned at all with .070". However, he did say to run .050 or less preload just in case.

The plot thickens eh?

Ron

Last edited by RonSSNova; 03-23-2012 at 06:11 PM.
Old 03-24-2012, 09:14 AM
  #25  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by RonSSNova
My PTV is now at .075" if the measurements track. A little scary, but as long as I don't float the valves, will be ok.
Mine is a little tighter but it is the intake. Is yours the intake as well? If you float I don't think even minimum acceptable will help but since the intake is tight on mine and its after the piston passes the top the valve would have to catch it to contact.
Old 03-24-2012, 10:56 AM
  #26  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
 
RonSSNova's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,600
Received 700 Likes on 441 Posts

Default

Yes, it's the intake.
Probably will be wise to set the rev limiter on the conservative side to start. I really hate to back the cam up any.

I re-measured and I am right at .075". That's life!

Ron

Last edited by RonSSNova; 03-25-2012 at 01:18 PM.
Old 05-31-2012, 11:43 PM
  #27  
TECH Apprentice
 
oxblood!z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

This is good info. I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but is it possible to get the the swipe pattern with the heads on and still use the springs that came with the heads, with the pushrods in as well. I've read vettenuts write up but he had his on a 2x4 and changed the springs on his. Good write up BTW.
Old 06-01-2012, 06:49 AM
  #28  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by oxblood!z28
This is good info. I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but is it possible to get the the swipe pattern with the heads on and still use the springs that came with the heads, with the pushrods in as well. I've read vettenuts write up but he had his on a 2x4 and changed the springs on his. Good write up BTW.
You can do it on the car basically following the same method, but you need a check spring installed. If you use the valve spring and hydraulic lifter the plunger will depress and as a result not provide an accurate wipe pattern.
Old 06-01-2012, 10:19 AM
  #29  
TECH Apprentice
 
oxblood!z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I see I'm a little ify on removing the valave spring and placing a check spring for I've never done that before. I don't want ruin my AFR's. But say I get past that. what check spring would you recommend and what tool would you recommend to remove the valve spring?
Old 06-01-2012, 11:10 AM
  #30  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
 
Cwarta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Elm Creek, NE
Posts: 1,796
Received 57 Likes on 47 Posts

Default

This is one thing i am still a little iffy on aswell.....
Old 06-01-2012, 12:10 PM
  #31  
TECH Addict
 
mark21742's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA/MD
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

For the checker spring you can go to Lowes or Home Depot in the hardware section....they have a few different sizes so you went to get one about 3/4-1" across and 3" tall. You can almost fully compress them with your fingers and are only a couple of dollars.....I've also used a spring off an R/C car shock.

As for taking the springs off the cables with the heads installed there are a few different types of valvespring compressors to chose from...just do a quick search for "on motor valvespring compressor"


You will also need a pen magnet and either use tdc to let the valve sit on the piston face, or the method o prefer is air compressor hooked up to a hose and screwed into the spark plug hole.
Old 06-01-2012, 12:19 PM
  #32  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
 
soundengineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 4,651
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

actually.. you can get an actual check spring from just about any auto parts store...
you can use your seat and retainer and locks...
2 pack is around $7-$8

Either use the TDC method to hold the valve up while changing the spring, or use an air compressor(which works great)...the pen magnet method is not very reliable..
Old 06-01-2012, 12:30 PM
  #33  
TECH Apprentice
 
oxblood!z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Thanks for the info guys.
Old 06-01-2012, 12:33 PM
  #34  
TECH Addict
 
mark21742's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA/MD
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Lol guess I should have said use the pen magnet to pull the locks out or if you drop one......I didn't even think of using the pen magnet to hold the valve up....I prefer compressed air personally
Old 06-01-2012, 02:51 PM
  #35  
TECH Senior Member
 
PREDATOR-Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by mark21742
Lol guess I should have said use the pen magnet to pull the locks out or if you drop one......I didn't even think of using the pen magnet to hold the valve up....I prefer compressed air personally
Try TDC method, fail proof, valve can only drop so far till hits piston at TDC.
Old 06-03-2012, 04:49 PM
  #36  
TECH Apprentice
 
oxblood!z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

The intake is off the car so removing the heads isn't a big deal. I more than likely gonna go that route I just need to get valve check springs and a valve spring compressor. I don't think Autozone or Oreily's has them. anyhow Thanks again.
Old 06-05-2012, 01:05 AM
  #37  
8 Second Club
iTrader: (16)
 
soundengineer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Chicago IL
Posts: 4,651
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

both autozone and oriley have the check springs and the spring comprfessor...
you can even rent them for free..(you pay for the rental, they refund you when the tools come back)
Old 06-05-2012, 05:04 AM
  #38  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Don't use the Autozone spring compressor if it is the claw type. It will ruin a high performance spring. Get a good valve spring compressor that presses only on the retainer. The Crane tool is a good example.

Last edited by vettenuts; 06-07-2012 at 03:55 AM.
Old 06-06-2012, 03:18 PM
  #39  
TECH Apprentice
 
oxblood!z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

The one I saw at Autozone was the claw type. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get one for LS1's. The guys at at Orileys and autozone didn't have any check springs. Homedepot had some low tension springs but I don't they fit the diameter that is needed. Anyhow gonna check out some sponsors and see what they got.



Quick Reply: Lifter preload & pushrod length?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:48 PM.