My winter Mamo build is (mostly) done!
04-28-2012, 04:12 PM
#62
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Those "dead soldiers" are from two of my friends hanging out and getting in my way as parts were flying off the car at an insane pace. Having the car up on my 4-post lift and having exactly how everything comes apart fresh in your mind sure makes things go faster. LOL
I used oil. The cam was in while massaging the bores but I was very careful not to touch it with the paper.
#7 wasn't the tightest in my case - it was 1 and 2 by far. #7 exhaust is the one that failed, though. BTW i inspected the pair a little closer last night - it looks like I hardly had to do any massaging at all on either of them which is what I thought I remembered. And I know I didn't touch either of the bores on #7.
At any rate, a new lifter pair is on it's way to me. I look forward to moving forward and getting this thing back together and getting some seat time by the end of next week I hope.
I used oil. The cam was in while massaging the bores but I was very careful not to touch it with the paper.
#7 wasn't the tightest in my case - it was 1 and 2 by far. #7 exhaust is the one that failed, though. BTW i inspected the pair a little closer last night - it looks like I hardly had to do any massaging at all on either of them which is what I thought I remembered. And I know I didn't touch either of the bores on #7.
At any rate, a new lifter pair is on it's way to me. I look forward to moving forward and getting this thing back together and getting some seat time by the end of next week I hope.
04-28-2012, 10:18 PM
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I likely won't even attempt to install them as-received... like I said I think they are somewhat rough around the edges out of the box, although I've never seen a brand new set, so I'll let you know.
No thoughts on the dips in the dyno curves? I did talk to Dave at Yank and he said they don't advise pulling with the converter locked so I won't be letting that happen again. I'm thinking since the dip keeps happening earlier and earlier on each pull that its not valvetrain related, but who knows. I might send the scan to RPM transmissions and see if they have an opinion... Dave said it could be the 3-4 clutch pack slipping (i.e. Tony is doing his best to blow my trans, that's a good thing!)... haha...
Rob
No thoughts on the dips in the dyno curves? I did talk to Dave at Yank and he said they don't advise pulling with the converter locked so I won't be letting that happen again. I'm thinking since the dip keeps happening earlier and earlier on each pull that its not valvetrain related, but who knows. I might send the scan to RPM transmissions and see if they have an opinion... Dave said it could be the 3-4 clutch pack slipping (i.e. Tony is doing his best to blow my trans, that's a good thing!)... haha...
Rob
04-28-2012, 11:14 PM
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Posting some more pictures, everybody likes pics, right? Some are blurry but the Droid is so much handier than a real camera...
Shiny Tony Mamo goodness!
Industrial Q-tips to clean the head bolt holes (after chasing the threads):
Degreeing the cam, and yes, that is a Ford fan clutch wrench bolted to the head to act as a dial indicator base...
Making a solid lifter to check PTV:
Clay:
OPSU relocation (figured it was a good idea, that damn thing is in the worst spot, it gets even worse with a FAST 102):
My bench is trashed!
Measuring for pushrods, this is pretty painful 'till you get the hang of it, these short travel lifters have a narrow window but eventually I nailed it after lots of practice (I ended up with three different lengths BTW):
OE lifter vs. the Comp:
SJM ABS delete/line lock/proportioning valve install:
69TA's fender roller:
And... I'm done. *** end:
Except it's my thread and I can do whatever the f**k I want. Haha... Here's my turtle, his name is Murf. He's about 23 years old and he's awesome. You can't tell from the pic but he's pretty big, his shell is 9" long.
Rob
Shiny Tony Mamo goodness!
Industrial Q-tips to clean the head bolt holes (after chasing the threads):
Degreeing the cam, and yes, that is a Ford fan clutch wrench bolted to the head to act as a dial indicator base...
Making a solid lifter to check PTV:
Clay:
OPSU relocation (figured it was a good idea, that damn thing is in the worst spot, it gets even worse with a FAST 102):
My bench is trashed!
Measuring for pushrods, this is pretty painful 'till you get the hang of it, these short travel lifters have a narrow window but eventually I nailed it after lots of practice (I ended up with three different lengths BTW):
OE lifter vs. the Comp:
SJM ABS delete/line lock/proportioning valve install:
69TA's fender roller:
And... I'm done. *** end:
Except it's my thread and I can do whatever the f**k I want. Haha... Here's my turtle, his name is Murf. He's about 23 years old and he's awesome. You can't tell from the pic but he's pretty big, his shell is 9" long.
Rob
Last edited by Rickenbackerman; 04-28-2012 at 11:50 PM.
05-03-2012, 12:00 PM
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So anyway... thanks to Tony I have a new lifter pair in my possession. Out of curiosity I went out to see how they would fit the block "bone stock". As I suspected, not well at all. They went in only about 1/4" before getting hung up. 15 minutes with some 600 around where the axle is pressed in and they went in like butter.
The "bad" pair is on it's way back to Comp. I want to wait and hear what they say about the condition of the roller wheels (and why one collapsed!) before I start sticking this thing back together.
05-03-2012, 02:31 PM
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No offense Ron, but we're building high performance race engines here, not toasters!
We're using mass produced non-oem parts - expecting everything to cooperate perfectly out of the box is expecting too much IMO... needing to massage parts is no surprise in my book.
BTW out of curiosity I cut the oil filter open last night (with my new filter cutter opener, cool tool!). I took a pic and sent it Tony and he said it looked pretty dang clean. So I've got that going for me, which is nice...
We're using mass produced non-oem parts - expecting everything to cooperate perfectly out of the box is expecting too much IMO... needing to massage parts is no surprise in my book.
BTW out of curiosity I cut the oil filter open last night (with my new filter cutter opener, cool tool!). I took a pic and sent it Tony and he said it looked pretty dang clean. So I've got that going for me, which is nice...
05-04-2012, 03:03 AM
#75
hey Rob, post up that tool, I am curious. Man that Tony works fast, doesn't he?
on the lifter wheel I'm thinking it probably was just so young it never even broke in?
get her back together and let's see some ponies. to me it makes sense that the lifter may be the dips in the curve, as it **** the bed you started losing that valve at lower and lower rpm occamsrazor
on the lifter wheel I'm thinking it probably was just so young it never even broke in?
get her back together and let's see some ponies. to me it makes sense that the lifter may be the dips in the curve, as it **** the bed you started losing that valve at lower and lower rpm occamsrazor
05-04-2012, 09:18 AM
#76
No offense Ron, but we're building high performance race engines here, not toasters!
We're using mass produced non-oem parts - expecting everything to cooperate perfectly out of the box is expecting too much IMO... needing to massage parts is no surprise in my book.
BTW out of curiosity I cut the oil filter open last night (with my new filter cutter opener, cool tool!). I took a pic and sent it Tony and he said it looked pretty dang clean. So I've got that going for me, which is nice...
We're using mass produced non-oem parts - expecting everything to cooperate perfectly out of the box is expecting too much IMO... needing to massage parts is no surprise in my book.
BTW out of curiosity I cut the oil filter open last night (with my new filter cutter opener, cool tool!). I took a pic and sent it Tony and he said it looked pretty dang clean. So I've got that going for me, which is nice...
Big hitter the Lama, long.
05-04-2012, 11:56 AM
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Keeping them.
hey Rob, post up that tool, I am curious. Man that Tony works fast, doesn't he?
on the lifter wheel I'm thinking it probably was just so young it never even broke in?
get her back together and let's see some ponies. to me it makes sense that the lifter may be the dips in the curve, as it **** the bed you started losing that valve at lower and lower rpm occamsrazor
on the lifter wheel I'm thinking it probably was just so young it never even broke in?
get her back together and let's see some ponies. to me it makes sense that the lifter may be the dips in the curve, as it **** the bed you started losing that valve at lower and lower rpm occamsrazor
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=753437
I'm not sure on the lifter wheels. They came out of Tony's 454 which had about a dozen dyno pulls on it and the wheels still looked new when I got them, so I dunno...
I'm not sure the dips are valvetrain related - with the short travel of the lifters (0.060") and my preload setting (~0.030" hot), even if I lost that lifter it would only lose 0.030*1.7 = 0.051" of lift at the valve. I'm not sure that's enough to make me lose that much power.
I'm still leaning toward slipping converter clutch or slipping trans.
LOL... You got it! Spaulding get your foot off the boat!
05-04-2012, 02:03 PM
#78
MMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm turtle soup!!!
05-15-2012, 04:54 PM
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Hey now... you mess with my turtle you get a good look at the wrong end of my .45! Haha.... 
I got a new dyno graph from the shop today plotting gear ratio (RPM vs. MPH). As you can see it's a nice flat line so the dips must have been caused by the lifter taking a dump... nice to know my trans isn't slipping (yet).
I got a new dyno graph from the shop today plotting gear ratio (RPM vs. MPH). As you can see it's a nice flat line so the dips must have been caused by the lifter taking a dump... nice to know my trans isn't slipping (yet).
