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383 LS Project
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
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383 LS Project i am going to try to start a project, i am going to try to save up all my dollars earned from now till i get the required items needed, and start hopefully soon. I understand this wont be an overnight adventure, but more like a 4 year adventure (just hoping it wont take that long). What I want is an LS1 block pulled from the junk yard, gut it, have it inspected for cracks and resurface anything that may need to be resurfaced. I am planning on boreing the block out to a 383, sleeve the cylinders, and strengthen where the main bolts screw into with heli coils. Im not really too worried about power i already have a procharger and want an engine strong enough to hold that power. I plan on having everything forged and nice quality. Being my first actual project besides my resto, i want to gain ever bit of information as i possibly can. and if this attempt is even a great one with an aluminum block. As far as building the engine i will have my uncle help me who has rebuilt numerous engines and knows a great deal about vehicles. i just want everyones judgment, and people who have been around and working specific to the LS block.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
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sorry and to be honest i realy dont know what im doing iv never rebuilt an engine iv only taken about 5 dead units apart. thats why i want to get all the info i can before i even atempt this. Cant really read a book and ask it questions so thats why i post my ideas and hope for the best. and i figured this was the right forum i appoligize. figured since it was advanced engine tech i was in the right place ill move my posting
If your boring to make it a 383 that's only a 3.903 or 3.905 bore the gain is from the larger crank no need to sleeve it unless your going to go for more cubes. ARP main studs will be all you need there. Just make sure the rest of your rotating assembly is good.
If you already have a Procharger why not just buy a cheap iron block from a sponsor and not even mess with all that. It will be cheaper too.
I think you should do a ton of reading first. Just based on your question. Even more so if going FI.
If you already have a Procharger why not just buy a cheap iron block from a sponsor and not even mess with all that. It will be cheaper too.
I think you should do a ton of reading first. Just based on your question. Even more so if going FI.
Moved from Advanced Engine tech.
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
i was going to go with an iron block, i was also told when boring out a 350 into a 383 its to be bored 60 over with a different piston depth. i beleive thats how he worded it. i like the alum block for saving weight, i am going to try to add a skid plate in the from and that will add a few extra pounds. the air filter is about 3-5 inchs off the ground and i do not want a chance of ripping it off over a bump, or if i get stuck in the rain i at least have some protection against the procharger sucking water into the block. as far as sleeving the cylinder walls i was told that on chevy 350 the two inner cylinders are siamese? i got the info from my uncle he ussualy know his stuff but when it comes to specific expectially when i work on my cars he doesnt know everything. and considering he would be the one helping me out i would have to do the research myself to prove him wrong. are LS1s universal to the LTs? and is the procharged 93-97 LT1 specific only to the LT1.
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The old school 350 did not have siamese cylinders, that was the 400 block. The gen 1 350 block bored out with a 400 crank also made a 383. Sounds like your buddy is getting that confused. Fast forward to the LS1 block. You can't bore them out much because they have sleeves in an aluminum block. To make a 383 motor from a LS1 you just hone the bores out a little to fit the pistons (usually 3.903") and get a 4" stroker assembly. Like was said, you don't need to resleeve for a 383, you only need to resleeve if you are going bigger than that.
Just to give you an example, here is a Texas Speed 383 forged rotating assembly that you would use to make a 383 out of a LS1.
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-787-tsp...-assembly.aspx
Just to give you an example, here is a Texas Speed 383 forged rotating assembly that you would use to make a 383 out of a LS1.
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-787-tsp...-assembly.aspx
Even still, getting a gen 3 or 4 iron block can be bored to the required 3.905 bore and 4.000 stroke as well.
If your slapping a procharger on it, the 5.3 iron block (which is what you would start with to make an iron 347 or 383) is the cheapest boost motor, or you can get a 6.0 iron truck block for a little more money. This opens up your options alot when it comes to what cylinder heads can be run due to the larger bore. You have the option of going 30 over with the stock crank yielding 370cid or a 4 inch stoke netting you 408 cubic inches. Generally you want as much height on the piston as possible with boost so most people prefer the 370 as its cheaper and the stock cranks are more stout than you or I will probably ever need. However, there are plenty of people sporting boosted 408's.
But there is alot more to this if your swapping this into an LT ride. Check out the other parts of the board and SEARCH there is alot of info out there on LS1 conversions.
But since you have an LT ride and an LT procharger. Why not just forge the LT1 you can even get your 383 and keep the boost moderate and be fine.
If your slapping a procharger on it, the 5.3 iron block (which is what you would start with to make an iron 347 or 383) is the cheapest boost motor, or you can get a 6.0 iron truck block for a little more money. This opens up your options alot when it comes to what cylinder heads can be run due to the larger bore. You have the option of going 30 over with the stock crank yielding 370cid or a 4 inch stoke netting you 408 cubic inches. Generally you want as much height on the piston as possible with boost so most people prefer the 370 as its cheaper and the stock cranks are more stout than you or I will probably ever need. However, there are plenty of people sporting boosted 408's.
But there is alot more to this if your swapping this into an LT ride. Check out the other parts of the board and SEARCH there is alot of info out there on LS1 conversions.
But since you have an LT ride and an LT procharger. Why not just forge the LT1 you can even get your 383 and keep the boost moderate and be fine.
Last edited by My6speedZ; Apr 14, 2012 at 11:07 AM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 4
read more threads and ask more questions.a 383 ls motor usually involves a honed out ls1 alum block to 3.905 and a 4" stroke crank.check out TSP for ideas.knowledge ,good heads and cams make the power.you can get a iron 5.3 block and bore it out to 3.905.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 131
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From: dayton ohio
i am a old school 010 block builder, love them to death
i had takin a 5.3 and punched it to 3.905 and stroked it to make a 383
i had never done any fi hot roding previous to this build
i have been a auto technician for 25+ years and can fix anything
i have read and re-read alot on these forum of fi and moding
now i am getting ready to put the new toy on the dyno next week to pull some numbers
thanks to this site it has made it easy to make the conversion to ls engine
but please READ AND SEARCH
i had takin a 5.3 and punched it to 3.905 and stroked it to make a 383
i had never done any fi hot roding previous to this build
i have been a auto technician for 25+ years and can fix anything
i have read and re-read alot on these forum of fi and moding
now i am getting ready to put the new toy on the dyno next week to pull some numbers
thanks to this site it has made it easy to make the conversion to ls engine
but please READ AND SEARCH
