how do these pistons look as well as the heads?
#1
![Question](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
pulled the heads off. i honestly dont know if i could just clean the heads and leave the block as is or what would be the thing to do here?![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-15202-1337127063620.jpg)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-18873-1337127063082.jpg)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-29186-1337127062565.jpg)
this was what Cyl 8 looked like looking in from the intake port
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-16230-1337106479405.jpg)
the wholesale yard said the motor was fired up before it was removed to know if it was labeled good motor or a core and it was labeled a good working motor and was pulled about 10 months ago and was stored in a heated warehouse. my initial thought was the moisture from the gas settled on the intake valves. not all of the intake valves looks like Cyl 8 but the exhaust valves looked fine. the plugs when i pulled them were lean and did have some orange discoloration.
i googled around and found something called methylcyclopentadieyl or MMT or MCMT that some gas station used as additive would cause orange build up as well in the motor. perhaps its hopeful thinking but those who know and with experience what are your thoughts and suggestions?![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
also can anyone decode what year was the block made please? G03
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-15202-1337127063620.jpg)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-18873-1337127063082.jpg)
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-29186-1337127062565.jpg)
this was what Cyl 8 looked like looking in from the intake port
![](http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/fst100/photobucket-16230-1337106479405.jpg)
the wholesale yard said the motor was fired up before it was removed to know if it was labeled good motor or a core and it was labeled a good working motor and was pulled about 10 months ago and was stored in a heated warehouse. my initial thought was the moisture from the gas settled on the intake valves. not all of the intake valves looks like Cyl 8 but the exhaust valves looked fine. the plugs when i pulled them were lean and did have some orange discoloration.
i googled around and found something called methylcyclopentadieyl or MMT or MCMT that some gas station used as additive would cause orange build up as well in the motor. perhaps its hopeful thinking but those who know and with experience what are your thoughts and suggestions?
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
also can anyone decode what year was the block made please? G03
#2
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Looks like some normal carbon build up on the pistons and heads. The intake port looks to be coated with oil which may be normal considering the amount of oil these motors ingest through the intake. The orange stuff looks like rust. It may have been sitting outside in the rain. The reason I say it's not coolant or dexcool, is that if coolant got into the intake ports, it should have blasted everything clean much like an internally leaking headgasket would do. I could be wrong but it looks like rust.
The block looks ok. At the minimum, I would take the heads to a machine shop, have them go through it, check for cracks, warpage, etc and clean them up. Good time to maybe get a valve job and mill them a bit.
The block looks ok. At the minimum, I would take the heads to a machine shop, have them go through it, check for cracks, warpage, etc and clean them up. Good time to maybe get a valve job and mill them a bit.
#3
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Thanks bramlot.alot of ppl I mentioned this about recommended getting the heads tested, valve job, and cleaned. I'll plan on that. Should I bother cleaning the cylinder walls our just leave them be and use seFoam when the motor is back together and running?
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Hard to tell from the pics but the cylinder walls look ok. If anything, I would wipe them down with a rag and some wd-40 or plain oil. Seafoam would be ok when you get it back together and running. It would blast all that carbon off the pistons.
#5
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ok cool. thanks! also i noticed some carbon is in between the piston and the wall. could i just rotate the crank pulley to have the piston move to the top of the block to sit flush and use something like a soft brush or air can to blow the debris free or dont worry about them in the crevasses?