primeing oil pump??
primeing oil pump?? im almost ready to prime my engine.but when the shop rebuilt it they did not prime the oil pump.so i wanted to know can i take the pickup tube off and pour oil into the pump wile slowly rotateing the crank??then i would do the install and the prine the engine with oil. any info on how u guys do it would be great.it took me a wile to get this far and i would hate to make a rookie mistake.
I did not prime my pump and it had great PSI on first start. I used 30w oil also. I dont think I put oil on the pump to block mating surfaces. I did use a lot of assembly lube during the build though.
I used Redline Assembly Lube to coat the internal gears of the pump. If I turned it by hand it would actually pull a vacuum if you put your hand over the end. Oil pressure came up very quickly and all was well lubricated. Redline dissolves instantly in oil.
You should pressure lube it. I pump 2 quarts thru the galley plug. Cranking the engine with the plugs out you take a chance of something being dry when doing this . It takes quite a while for oil to get all the way thru the motor
Tim
Tim
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You do not fire a dry engine after a rebuild without first priming the pump. That is an excellent way to cause premature wear.
Priming the pump is simple. Make sure you've got a good charge on your battery and pull the fuel pump relay located in the fuse panel on the front driver's side of your engine bay. It's indicated in the diagram which one it is, a rectangular shaped relay. Once it's pulled hit the ignition key spinning the engine in increments of 10-15 seconds at a time. After the 3-5 try, you should start seeing pressure. Keep spinning until your pressure needle doesn't move anymore, and your oil pump is now primed and ready to deliver immediate lubrication. Replace fuel pump relay, and start the engine.
Doing otherwise is not a smart way to start off a new build. It's also good practice to fill the pump with some sort of pre-lube or lubrication before install. I use Lucas oil stabilizer, makes an excellent prelube. Be sure to spin the oil pump gear until your prelube is leaking out of both holes in the pump.
Priming the pump is simple. Make sure you've got a good charge on your battery and pull the fuel pump relay located in the fuse panel on the front driver's side of your engine bay. It's indicated in the diagram which one it is, a rectangular shaped relay. Once it's pulled hit the ignition key spinning the engine in increments of 10-15 seconds at a time. After the 3-5 try, you should start seeing pressure. Keep spinning until your pressure needle doesn't move anymore, and your oil pump is now primed and ready to deliver immediate lubrication. Replace fuel pump relay, and start the engine.
Doing otherwise is not a smart way to start off a new build. It's also good practice to fill the pump with some sort of pre-lube or lubrication before install. I use Lucas oil stabilizer, makes an excellent prelube. Be sure to spin the oil pump gear until your prelube is leaking out of both holes in the pump.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
No need to prime the pump if assembly lube was used on the bearings. It will lubricate until the oil pushes it away. That's what it's designed to do.
My builder has installed a ton of pre-oilers on his customers cars also. I'm considering it. Might be overkill.
.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 268
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When i build a distributor less engine and for that matter any engine i always pre-lube them. It is true that assembly lube and a pre-filled oil filter is ok. But not in my opinion. But if you want to do it a bit better here is what i do. Buy a cheap pressurized container like a tire tank or an old freon tank. I fill it half full of oil like 5W20 then pressurize it with 60 psi of air. Then turn it over so the oil is on the top of the vessel. Hook it to the oil pressure sending unit spot on the block then open the valve. This will pressure feed the engine and pre-lube the engine. We actually used a cheap bug sprayer from Home Depot and believe it or not it worked fairly well. This worked well and it is better than relying on the assembly lube on a dry fire. This is just like the Federal Mogule leak down tester from years ago that we used to check main and rod bearings for excessive leak down.
Here is what i use.
http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/H...eLubeTank.aspx
Here is what i use.
http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/H...eLubeTank.aspx
Last edited by tom falco; Jun 18, 2012 at 06:01 AM.
